DJ194950

My experience with old 4 sp. truck trans were mostly in forklifts that had mopar flat 6's. We always took the top off to do clutch work. Who made the tranny? To many years ago for my memory, but with the top off clamp the shifter lever in a vice with soft jaws and look at the shifter rods that have a drilled hole in the proper place to hold the forks. NO adjustment possible, but was slightly loose it could have have shifted some. Removed one lock bolt at a time to check the hole and make sure that it did not get mushroomed over the years from a loose set screw. If not put screw back in with it centered over the hole. After doing this to both rods, check to see if in neutral position the side to side slot allows the shifter to easlily move back and forth between the two rail neutral slots. If not aligned, your spring loaded bearings have a problem, or the the detents are worn. The rails can be removed to check this or just remove the springs and balls to see the detents. This info may not be exactly perfert for you trans but everyone I touched in the past worked by a simular method. Best of luck, Doug

My thought, with all the messing arround trying to get the top back on, one of the shifter forks on the rail got pushed slightly out of position. Unfortunenately you'll have to remove it again! Loosen the set screws make sure that they center in the hole in the rails for them and try again. Sorry! Best Doug

Maybe add small pieces of sticky backed sound deadener a piece at a time until "tuned" to fit driving preferred loudness as tested. Still too loud add some more until you hear it without bothering you? A thought. Best Doug

That's why I asked since you stated you picked up another gear position sender. Not for this project then. Talk to you more some evening about it on chat. Doug

Might try finding a piece of round stock that will fit inside the plunger and wiggle side to side/up and down and maybe tapping on it lightly after some soaking as suggested. Another thought? Best Doug

Tim, 5 sp. auto or manuel. Must be a newer auto out of your donor? Doug

Was 500k, au or us?? Might make at dellerence to someone. Doug

Saw an ongoing arcticle on a 50 Ply. bus, cpe early drag type straight axle hemi. build where the trunk lid fit was bad and showed that the lid pivot points are steel pins on steel mounting points and worn oblong stopping the lid from closing in the correct area. That could be a real problem to center the trunk lid. Just thought that I'd throw that out there. Never thought that the average owner would ever open an close a lid enough to cause that much wear. A traveling salesman.? Bad rubber seal for years? Doug

Bet ya Paul F. told his wife that the truck was going to be his only vechicle repair/restore project! 3 and counting? Doug

Tim, went back and reread Your post- Did not then nor now see a name mentioned, otherwise I would not have broght up his name( r.francis) as their does seem to be plenty of others now makeing them and the other mentioned is a electronically adjustable to match the trans and has a neutral/ park start only feature. Like I tried to imply do your own research- not suggested any one product. Doug

Just for a clarification-? Are you talking the gap horizonally or vertically? Doug

Gear position indicator? A few ideas for you: Sorry i cannot upload the type of files that I'd saved on the desktop. Oh well, the sites I searched are: watsons street works and ronfrancis wiring. Both carry gear positon senders and dash indicator led lights. R> francis makes one just for the mopar 727 trans. Also Search- gear position indicator on the web. Lots of sellers, utube videos,pics etc. Doug

Boy, that trip could get expensive quickly! Doug

If Ca. had unmaked patrol cars like many states they could double -triple??- the state income from Just fines by ticketing cell phone use while driving in no less than 2 months. Take that fine and add the Now additional FEES (not taxes mind you) amlost any ticket will be amost triple the stated fine (as passed by the legistrature). Fees do NOT have to approved by the Gov. Legistrature! Quick end end to our Gov. revenue shortage. Might stop some, but not enough. Continous state revenue- keep taxes lower! Doug

Take it to a machine shop that can sonic test it. They can determine if it's thick enough to stand that much overbore. Sleeves are not actually that expensive, I was surprised! Bore-press in sleeves, hone to std. maybe overbore sizes are avail. I believe good/reasonably priced parts are avail. at Terrel Machine-Texas Think there is a link to them in the Resources tab- then suppliers Good luck Doug

In 1950 Mopar had at least three diff. heaters. Per my repairs manuel a 100- a 300- and a 550. slightly diif problems Could be Your problem. 1 speed blower? 2sp. blower? Separate blower for defrost.. Some did not have the fresh air flap with a lever to open/close . I'd agree most likely block in the heater core box or duct/ducts inany of the models. They really don't blow the cfm of your modern car. Mine was tottally replaced-all new/repaired even on high. Check/clean/enjoy. Best, Doug

I like the IDEA for trying a small turbo but it needs several more parts. A waste gate for one, limits boost. Since this seems to be unk. speced turbo, it should be an adjustable gate with a boost gate to check it.. Ign. timing needs to be altered to work with the boost pressure as adjusted to get the most HP from the boost and at the same time prevent preignition. Best way my friend found to boost the air flow thru a regular carb. without continually blowing out the carb gaskets was to build a box that the carb sat into with sealed throttle shafts that protruded from the box to equalize the inner/outter pressure. This was not on a flat 6 and was many years ago. Mounting? A exhaust manifold from an industrial mopar flat motor of the correct size had som with exhaust exiting on the top side. A possibility IF you can locate one. Since you have some Extra time, look arround, send some emails to turbo specializing install co's with your questions. If you find some interesting, definative answers, I'm sure many on this forum would be at least interested! Doug

Paul, try dropping by auto/boat upholstery shop and having a talk with the owner. For about the same price as masonite (less? reasonable though.) my friend was able to buy some board made for the job. Waterproof?/resistant? These cars always leak by the doors. The factory put drain hole in the bottoms for a reason! Cover the steel panels with heavy plastic first, glued down but with a removalable type sealer. You may need to work on the innerds again. Progress. Doug

The wagon was Only about a years part time sheet metal replacement fun. Guess that's why I was NOT going to buy the 4dr. no matter how cheap I could buy it if it was that bad, but still found more hidden than what I thought. Did I mention the expanding foam used to close up the hole in the corner of the trunk!?? With the amount of work you accomplish, I'd expect that your repairs may only take a day! Doug

If any one place has the answer it's probably here. If not, so what. Fix the car, drive it. When at old car get togethers old mopar people will ask what's up the the badging. Perfect way to meet and talk with other Mopar people. Mine was just a guess without any clues on US builds vs. Canadian built. Enjoy your car... Doug

It seems sellers always like to assume that nothing big is happening under a small paint bubble. Actually more often it can be a poorly repaired rust from this area in the past and not sealed from the back side! Seems that the "bubble" actually holds moisture longer allowing rust to continue at a faster rate. When I bought my 50 4 dr. Ply. I had a friend check well under the car at the rocker panels as I had to replace them tottally in my 50 wagon. Very large job! Did not want that much work again. The floor panels where passengers put their feet where shot but at least I had a clue about those repairs as I also had to do them in the wagon plus tons! more rusted panels. Back to the 50 4 dr. I checked the trunk area. There was some rust in the outter edge panel/truck lid/seal area showing in the trunk but seemed something not to bad. Then the trunk lid. Small bristers on the corners and some some on the seal edge. In the end, I needed to replace about 6" strip on each side on the seal areas and about 1" wide by 4" on the outter panel. Small panels!! They all show at times. I suggest when buying a car when seriously interested take a small pick and push on the blistered areas gently. If the seller declines your doing this (ask first) I'd suggest not buying except with a price based on usuable parts! Doug

On this topic some asked why it would not be repaired and reused. After looking at the pics on the damage it would appear that maybe they could off the front 1/3rd, middle 1/4?, stern section 1/4" put it back together and make a ship for a Saudi prince. Cheap for them? NOT!! I sure hpoe they do find the missing for some closure for the familys! The engineering is impressive. Glad you posted on some future timelime to refloat it as i have not seen any. Thanks Doug

Question, Does the original paint under the patina match-front sheet metal to rest of body?? Earlier models the entire front sheet metal inchanged between models. Maybe had a wreck and an entire wrecking yard front sheet metal replaced and badging not changed?? Doug

Paul, you do have a big project ahead and while it can be a good thing to look at everything and plan, do not think that you're going to have the final solution to all repairs needed from the start. Start somewhere and just concentrate for now on that. You'll be supprised how answers to other things will show up from all types of sources, just trust. Lots of help here in this one source. Call me any afternoon with sheetmetal questions if you like. Doug

While looking a Street Rodder mag. that a friend shared with me I saw an ad for a end end emerg. brake setup that bolted a thin rotor to the drive yoke on the rear end and the mechanical brake caiper with mount bolted to the rear end housing. Included the attachment cable(first section only) made to fit either Ford 8.8 or 9" rears. Differant models I'm sure. Looked good BUT $300! I'd find another way. Doug