DJ194950

Per 48 dodgers post, Which type is it? Some are "base primers" which are applied, not sanded, then a High Build primer applied, sanded until your satisfied with the smoothness and then sometimes even a sealer coat type primer is applied- often minutes before the final color coats are applied. On this forum, members seldom go anywhere close to all that, but since you have a friendly, talkative person at the paint supplier, ask more questions! Step by step for what you expect in the end with your paint. Almost always, ask for the Painting/mixing/application sheet that is (almost always avail. if asked), usually also will cover prep/ base for app./ sanding/ topcoat. With all the new forulations out there to be Complient I NEED to ask! Old ideas will get ME in trouble. Good to ask first! Best to ya, Doug

With the ground jumper wire as described you should be actually to engage 1st over 2nd over and 3rd. over just by grounding in when in any gear and letting off the gas for a second. Drop back out of overdrive by removing the ground and let off the gas again. Reapply gas and go again. Way to check op. Doug

The other motor actually has all the parts too, just taken apart. I built a 230 using the crank and rods from that motor and another I had that did not need to be bored and the 230 crank didn't need to be turned. It would have been a fantastic find but the motor had been left out for a while? It had been rebored and resleeved in all cyls. back to std bore. One cyl. had rusted. The block could be rebored to clean out the rust, but why? I had another 60 over block and pistons in good shape. MORE cubic Inches! If you like we can talk on the phone. I'll pm you my Ph. #. Doug

Would you consider taking a long ride up to Modesto, Ca.? I have two 218 blocks you can have if wanted, of which one is still together and they are now stored in a shipping container. 1 was supposed to be a runner. Head is removed to look at it, appeared OK but not sure I'd try it. Has some decent amount of wear but nothing appears broken. Could take one or both to a reputable machine shop I use to be checked first, but it would have to be at your expense as I cannot afford it myself right now . I'd get it/them down to the shop for you and let you arrange with them for any block checks/ work if you'd like before making that drive. Would cost less than the $1100 for one from VPW. Doug.

Great your already on top this. Doug

Sorry about the timing of my response, the other posts were early this morning and I took a chance the show was tommorow. The govenors really ALMOST never go bad, just sticky from old grease, there is a set of points that also get dirty and cleaning them at the same time is tottaly advised. Flywights swig outward and lift? to close the points to ground.at to the terminal. Removal of the govenor for service can be a real challange. there is a 6 point place to put a wrench for removal,BUT that must have been some special shaped wrench to get to it tighten/loosen the govenor!! I've used channel lock plyers on the lowest point on the gov. casing and did manage to get gov. loose without damage on the two OD trans. i've worked on.. The housing is cast iron and fairly strong. Several repair articles i've seen on the r-10's said the same thing and the way to remove. There are no tricks on removal, loosen, screw out , no alignments to be concerned about etc. I've not found any info (repair manuel/parts diagrams) that indicates any type of gasket used either? I just put a little permatex on the threads. Hope you get it operational soon. Doug

Try putting a temp. wire to the relay at the terminal were the wire from the govenor wire via the reverse lockout swich hooks up. Drive the car in 2 or 3rd and ground it to a knwon good groud in the car somewhere. This will bypass to ground that comes from the governor to the lockout and to the kinkdown switch to the relay that gives power to the relay. The gas must be let off of when grounded for the OD prawl to engage, (the drive line must slow down very slightly for engagment to happen). Difficult to do on jackstands, easier to just drive it. If that works check the reverse lockout switch for continuity when in any position_except reverse, thats OK. If good remove the govenor and remove outter cover and remove old grease,brake clean, blow out with air and lightly grease with a light grease. Put a drill tightened on the the shaft and spin slowly until the weights move outward. Should spin out at a fairly slow drill speed. If you still have some time bypass as stated before hook up with a temp switch to ground to engage OD when wanted for now. Just remember to disengage before trying to take off in first again. NO reverse with it on!!! Have a good time at the show. Doug

So you were giving the door a good rinse cycle? Tide or Cheer? Clear out the drain holes? Doug

Are they bean bag throws and not the Real Corn?

Don can't take pics?? I find that hard to believe! I guess getting older does have it's effects. Just kidding ya Don. Hope you're having a great time! Doug

My guess is a manuel windshield fluid pump, foot activated. Doug

Have you made sure that full of corn?? If so, i'd suggest some friendly bets with bean bag throwers! Should give you the edge to recoup your expenses in the just the first year. Man that could help you cover your costs in the years to come also if you host more BBQ'S. Doug

Thought I'd throw this out there as I've found many older vechicles required oil like GL-4. Including foreign cars, muscle cars, vespa motorcycles and on and on! Found this paper-10 pages long after searching GL-4. Good explanation with pics, graphs, specs, etc. Too long to just upload paper to this site! I barely can get on the computer so I do not know how to just copy web page site address so if interested you will have to type it in your computer. Sorry! widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf This was wriiten to a forum for Covair transaxles, But info is the same for our cars/trucks for GL-4/GL-5 questions If someone can correct this address to easlly connected to, I'll be your debt. Doug

Seems you have found a solution. Great. Locally i could not find a clutch repair place that had a clue, so I took a differant direction. Regards, Doug

When I said I took my flywheels _ 218-10" and 230 11" to a machine shop it was not for any machine work, but redrill the smaller dia. bolt pattern hole pattern for the 10" pressure plate in the 230 flywheel. The 11" clutch was my first choice but the pressure plate was set up for a larger throwout bearing and ID on the throwout bearing was set up for a heavy truck, way to big. The combo had no issues with install in my 50 3 sp. w/OD

The 2 Od r-10's i've had both have- R-10-G cast into the cast case I have posted the question on several old mopar forums if the "G" was mopar only? No answers! The Chev. R-10 trans I bought had a differant letter after the R-10, but forget what, it's in storage now. There were still R-10'-G 's built to fit fluid drives--longer imput shafts? -Shorter tailshaft? Differant #'s somewhere? Check input shaft lenght, diameter, overall lenght, drive shaft connection. Hope he has one to fit!! Doug

Many other brand of cars w/ OD used a switch that mounted under the floor boards through a drilled hole that contacted the throttle pedal. Had one from a 54 Furd (engine and trans.)in my 37 Ply. cpe.many years ago. New switches of the type are still avail. from cole hersee, (but can be hard to find at times!) Have seen them on ebay under other car brands and OD switch. I do have (somewhere the part # for same. If you use an electric switch as other have suggested, you will almost never use the cable, period! Put it almost anywhere you can reach. Under the seat?? One of many possibilities. I can email my change over to almost total electric operation if you like,(involves using 2 relays though!). It's your choice, your car, enjoy the OD, I surely do! Doug bwwiring.pdf

Sounds just like my 50 ply. Suburban wagon rear gate-no inside access panel. That tell me that the emblem is hold by a spring type round clip that is just pushed into a hole in the outter skin and the emblem has protrusions shaped like a tall, skinny christmas tree. Gently ply under the emblem with a door panel remover tool. Suggest after lifting it slightly outwards, stop soak with light penetrating oil on the (tits) and let sit for a day.Preferably No silicones. If you don't own a panel remover tool, buy a cheap one at a local parts place. Almost all sell them. Some are not steel but nylon? Actually can be better a not marking outter panel. Good luck, Doug

I had the same issue afew years ago. I just took the 230 flywheel to my machine show and had drill the flywheel to match yhe 10" clutch I had. Do you have a 218 stock flywheel? I actually took both flywheels to them, but don't know if the really needed the 218 to compare or not. Check pilot bushing size to make sure thats its the same or replace from a 218". Mine where already same size. Regards' Doug Doug

Build a sheet metal cover to hide them! DC's post below. Meanwhile I decided to use the ugly modern relays for the headlights. I could not source another NOS relay like the one I have so I have no choice. I did find plugs for the modern relays much cheaper online than the ones at the parts store. Something to keep in mind if others are thinking the same thing.

Seems that for some reson I cannot remove or edit my earlier post. I applogize to the forum and anyone offended! Cannot remove the faces below either. Again not computer smart enough . Doug

I believe they have modified the law so that if you don't drive a Prius you must have a rainbow bumper decal on your car.

How about some comparison photos for us to see? Could a 54 be adapated? Paul's on his way to be a customlizer anyway with people asking him to work on Their cars! Doug

Pauls picking up this body work quickly! Best of all he's liking doing it-that's rare. At the rate he's learning it expect he will make a custom grill for the front and lose that dead fish look! Doug