DJ194950

I talked to PP on the phone about another question he had and asked about the valves on his Hi-Def picture he'd posted on the forum. It appeared to me me that his exhaust vavles appeared to be domed. Which per my very limited experience may indicate sodium filled vavles which again were made in two pieces, the head and the stem were welded(fused? together) and have been known to seperate. As per the "dished appearing" intake valves on the #2 & 4 cyl,. valves per the Hi-Def. pic, I had not seem such in my limited experience in flat mopar motors, and suggested he check with the forum about such an issue before putting the head back on. Sodium filled valves are still Mfg'ed for racing etc.. Some have sodium filled stems and heads. Dished valves headed valves are also sold. My q. to PP and the forum was has anyone seen such dished valve heads on "stock" flatheads? or were they overheated at some point and distorted? Attemping to attach a page from google w/pics of various sodium filled valves. Sorry, but not permitted to upload this type of file! If interested, I guess you'll have to do your own search, Sorry! Best, Doug

How sweet it would be to somehow use an original oil bath oil cleaner mounted somewhere under the hood, but I'd totally iunderstand using something else, just get 'er going! I'm rooting for you! Doug

Lots of interresting reading especially the retail suggested price list at the end of most parts sections. example 42-48 cpe. & sdn. frame only $127.75.! This copy has an original copywrite date of 1957. Hope you'll like them. Doug

Glad to see some on this forum actually give the turbo at test drive! Has been talked about on the car and the truck side for quite some time. Plan for an air cleaner? Sure you'll needed to up size the main jets. Maybe change the advance curve on dist. also to get the most from your setup. If much more boost the carb may need to put in a metal box to add the boost into to equalize the inside/outside pressures on the carb to prevent carb gasket blow outs. But that is a real pain according to a friend, as the throttle shaft, choke cable , vac. advance line still need to be connected through the box. His motor was a 340 mopar w/ belt driven supercharger and blowthru 4 bbl. carb. But I totally appreciate your efforts and posts! Doug

Suggest you buy a hollander interchange book as you have many projects that I believe will answer many of you questions. The rear gear info is on there but is too much and somewhat spread between pages to try to put on the forum. The hollander interchange classic edition #2 covers 1946-1956 but when parts fit from earlier models that is also there. For an example many mopar rearend parts are listed back to 1937 model. Check out: hollanderinterchange.net Look for classic edition #2 $45 plus ship. New May find it somewhere cheaper, but I could not. Best, Doug

Times 3 Doug

Paul, Have you installed a proper gas tank yet? Do you still use the 5 gal. gas tank mounted on the running board? I hope not-scary! Hope to see ya at the BBQ this year also! Doug

Paul, Ya trying to get them to move here? It's freezing in Ca, too. - degrees somewhere here! Sure it is somewhere in the mountains! Please don't move here, don't need any more people! Over crowded now! LOL No JOBS! Glad ya all are takin my my place there and still can enjoy life, You all be safe and best warm wishes, Doug

And you wish for the solitude? You get the weather with it! Reedley is about as much solitude as I can stand! Doug

Came out great! Before putting thing inside use some wax remover to get the Parting wax off so it will stick. How about a coat of rubberized undercoating sprayed on the outside to make it black and soundproof it also? Cheap, avail. many sources, and no need to clean the inside. Grad GTK moved it, hopefully easier to find in the future! Best, Doug

A small amount of dissolved foam residude ok, but what is a small amount? Sure depends on what you started with and the solvent as acetone disappears into the air itself, but what about the leftover? Gas I'm sure works, but what about the leftover smell in the heater duct? Just wondering. Doug

Nice work, especially for your first time! Thanks for the pic documention. I would like to know how much of a mess the "dissoved" foam makes as it's removed. Waiting for updates, Thanks, Doug

First light caught at sunrise?, last light caught at sunset?.

A real survivor! Lokk foward to the finished pics, Best, Doug

Prefer fresh, not prevoiusly frozen.

From a couple of car mag. articles on soda blasting. regular store bought bake soda will not work well for blasting as it's already ground to a flour consistancy and is too fine. After blasting with the right "grit" of soda you will end up with about the same fine stuff bought at most stores. Save for future use?, as long as it's not baking! Correct stuff may be avail. at H.F.. For sure at eastwood.com and others, maybe check with your local sandblasting co.'s to check other local sources. Articles also stated that the used soda was unfit for recycling for more blasting use. Best, Doug

Was referring to James post about the 235chebby motor not pulling 70mph. with the 3.9 rear and his OD trans. Without trying to start anything-chebby vs mopar, just a question. Ok? Don? I'll drop it OK? Doug

Joe glad you found an easy fix, not enough of those to go around. Best, Doug

Currently 3.9 stocker. Feels like a taller gear will also work as I have plenty of power still avail. Plan to try a 3.73 as soon as my friend removes one from his 49 Ply. bus. cpe. It's free, but I have to wait for him to get started on that project. He has many. Too many,maybe, but a nice problem to have. Doug

Somethings out of whack here? My 50 4dr. with stock changed to 230 ci.motor, stock intake,carb,exhaust with an Mopar R-10, pulls easy to +75mph, more if wanting to push the limits of stock braking. Good grades do require kicking out the R-10 overdrive gear. ?? Best, Doug

Yes Joe, I was referring to the interal flap that is controlled by the arm on top of the heater box. The diff. between Hi/low blower speeds only seems to make a small diff. with airflow inside the vents. Both of my heater blower motors- heater/defroster are changed to 12v. and new as are the heater core all ductwork ,new cardboard tube underhood and rebuilt from steel/fiberglass ductwork copy inside. Will cook me out in this (warm) climate even without the blowers on after getting it all warmed up! Hope yours will do the same! Best, Doug

Looking good Paul! You're getting the idea. Before any welding, measure the door opening to make sure door will still fit., Better yet, try refitting door to make sure all panels realign. Then tack weld and recheck. Best to to do rocker/and floor panel replacement in parts to prevent fitment problems later if not using welding in cross braces to maintain all openings fitment if correct from the start point. Are you using the old camera again? Still betteer than before! Best, Doug

Joe checked my 550 heater on the 50 4 dr. Ply. Within a minute or two had 80 degree temps at the vents, within 5 min. had 102 d. at the pass. side cabin outlet, 98 d. on the driver side I know it's 50 d. here now and you're nowwhere near that but with a termostat you should also get there. Mines is 180d. not a 160. Have you adjusted the vent throttle for the frest air on the underhood box per the pic.? Blocks heated air from passing to the fiber tube to the interior. I used a repalcement type of the water control valve as you did but not the same one, mine was was flow directional, where correct hose was supposed to go to a particular connection. Does it make a diff.? Don't know but it came out just the same as the pic attached, You Need a heater where you are! Best, Doug 550 mopar heater install.bmp

Now if Paul could just get those curves Into his Suburban! What tools do you think he would need, or should that be on the "show your tools" forum post? Best to ya, Doug

Paul, The good and the bad. Is that still some bondo above the replacement panel? You Have to get it off and straighten the upper panel first before any attempt at welding, if so. Otherwise looking much better! Saw some rear fender opening replacement panels for 54 Ply. cras on Ebay recently. If I remember correctly you need to replace at least one of those also? Not sure if right model or mostly correct and still be of help? Look at the heading "panel" after getting to Ebay motors-part and accessories. What happened to your pics? I can see them! Best, Doug