martybose
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Everything posted by martybose
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I WANT this, but when I select a saved search and go to Advanced search I didn't find anything to exclude sellers. What am I missing? Marty
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Before I switched to 12V I ran a 6V negative ground alternator. I was told as long as I hadn't switched the radio to an electronic vibrator (which would be polarity-sensitive) that it would work fine, which it did. Marty
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Been there, done that ...... When mine went it cut through a fender and the edge of the hood for an impressive amount of damage. I too am happily running an electric fan setup with no engine-driven fan now. Marty
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It looks like a well thought-out setup with some first class heavy duty parts. The only problem I have with it is that it doesn't look like it would work with an R-10 overdrive installed. Maybe that could become the second iteration? Marty
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I replaced the block fitting with an AN fitting, bought an IFF to AN adapter for the hard line to the gauge, and bought a pre-assembled AN 3 teflon-lined high pressure hose; no leaks at all! http://www.anplumbing.com Marty
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Nope. One arm does all of the actual shifting, and the other selects whether the first is shifting R-1 or 2-3. That's why it is difficult to make up a floor shift for these things. Marty
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Maybe it's just me, but in my case we left the worn out guides and used screw-in bronze guides. These are the ones where you use a special tap, then screw the bronze material in. It's not a solid guide, more like a Slinky that is screwed into the threads, then set with an expander. We did my block almost ten years ago, and the guides were nice and tight when I replaced the valves last year. Marty
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I concur with the Steele recommendation. I bought vent window, front and rear windows and quarter window rubber for my Business Coupe, and everything fit nicely. Marty
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I agree. Over the years I have tried experimenting with rejetting to try and improve them, but always wind up going back to the as-delivered setup. Marty
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I agree with this assessment. The shipyard I work at switched from 75/25 to 100% CO2 as a cost savings, but it took a while to get the quality back where it used to be, and the setup is a little more fiddly with 100% CO2 than it was with 75/25. Marty
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I'd be curious about them as well. Right now I have 1-1/2" lowering blocks on old stock springs that are a little worse for wear, and wouldn't mind replacing them. Check my profile picture for what it looks like now. Marty
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Okay, I'll bite: Does Posie's make a narrow spring for our cars? I haven't checked his site in a couple of years, but back then the narrowest he supplied was 2 inch. Marty
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Back in the 60's my first car was an old Volvo that I immediately did an oil change on. Naturally I used detergent oil, and within a week the spin-on filter was plugged with crud, and the mechanic said that it looked like the engine had always had non-detergent oil. After 3 or 4 weekly filter changes and oil top-offs it settled down again. Marty
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Fröhliche Weinacten to the German contingent! Marty
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Sounds like an ammeter salesman. My alternator is rated at 80 amps. Once in a great while it will peg on the charge side for a second or two after starting, then immediately drops to less than 20 amps.. I don't think it is that big a problem. Marty
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Mine was a 1952 Volvo 444, the last year that they still had the split windshield. My Dad wasn't going to let me buy it until I mentioned that I could afford a motorcycle. I drove it for several years with the 1600 engine, then swapped in an 1800 when the old motor died. It lasted through my early college years and my time in the Navy. Marty
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Your splice looks like a massive case of overkill, so it should be just about right! BTW, looks like camera lessons could be useful, unless you really did take the photos 3 months in the future! Marty
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Isn't there also an OD-unique reverse gear shifter that goes through the case into the OD unit to force it into direct when you shift into reverse? Marty
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You should take the pump off and confirm that there is a plug in between the two fittings. If there is, the fitting closest to the pump is the supply line for the filter housing, and the one farther back would be the return line from the filter housing. Marty
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Interesting indeed! So who's going to step up to a 3 carb manifold on a long block flathead? Marty
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Sick feeling indeed, especially after it read zero compression! My intake valve was bent over 1/4", which still doesn't make any sense to me. As far as the access panel, my car had both a hole and a slot, and it had bolts in both of them. Marty
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The #1 Bonehead would like to point out that I managed to bend two valves in the same cylinder; let's see you match that!! Marty PS - the Edmunds head I use moves the sparkplug over so that it overlaps both valves!
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In my experience, re-torquing is more important. most gasket compress a bit initially, and i've found that I have to retorque a headgasket 2 or 3 times before none of the bolts will move. Marty
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If those silvery looking valve springs are plated, I would not run them!!!! I bought a brand new, unused set of them, put them in my car, and over a period of 3 years no less than 3 of them broke. I then replaced all of them with a set of unplated springs, and they've been fine ever since. Marty
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I've got SoCal Swan necks on my 47, and I just drilled out one of the holes for the original mirrors to install them. Marty
