martybose

Since you didn't make a list, I can't tell if I was included. If I ever get my car where I trust it, we could probably have a nice Bay Area mini-meet. Marty

My 2 cents worth are above. I would add that a 3 angle valve job is sort of wasted if you haven't confirmed that your valve guides are tightly clearanced instead of worn out. The PCV valve won't make it run any better, but might eliminate an annoying oil drip. Forget the cross-drilling unless you are planning on racing it. On second thought, there's not much point to grinding a camshaft if you aren't making intake and exhaust upgrades first. And personally, I'd add installing a full flow oil filter, but that's just me. Marty

I understand Howard's pain. In the last couple of years I've been having a problem that causes my car to go on maybe 3 cylinders within a half mile of my house, so his 50 miles has got me beat by a bunch. I've replaced virtually everything that is ignition or fuel related with no change. I'm now about to re-do the electrical system with power relays and fuse blocks to take the current load off of the ignition switch (which I'm also replacing), and then I'll take apart my very clean looking Carter-Webers to see if there is something amiss internally. There has to be something wrong that I can find, but in the meantime my car doesn't leave the garage. Marty

I had thought of Hagan when I saw the initial request, but everything they make are for 7" headlights. Marty

My parts book had two numbers for the pump cover gasket; 863 724 and 1124 984. The first number was used through engine number 104398 (with a few oddball exceptions), and the second was for engines after 104398. I've no idea what the difference is. Marty

Oil filters were an option, usually dealer installed. If you had one you wouldn't miss it, since they were usually bolted to the left side of the engine just behind where the dipstick is. Marty

True, but then you would need to figure out the belt drive ratio and then correct it to the right speed for the tach head. Marty

I guess you could say I was determined! If you really want something unusual to use for a tach, I might have an alternative choice for you, Moose. I have a 270 degree 5000 RPM Stewart Warner mechanical tach, in a chrome cup for a steering column mount, and I have a 2-to-1 right angle drive gearbox for it that could be made to work from the crankshaft. I may even have a second right angle 1-to-1 drive for use on the tach head. I gave up on this one when I figured that I would need to modify the front crossmember to clear the gearbox, and by then my ace mechanic/fabricator had retired and moved. Since you don't seem to mind heavy metal work, the mods for this should be easy for you! I was going to post a picture, but can't find the memory card for the camera! If I find it I'll add it. Marty

No, it was a later one meant for 12V+. I found it on eBay. marty

I'm pretty sure that I've got an extra pair that I no longer need (because of my ECI front brakes). PM me an address and I'll send them to you. Marty

When I bought the engine out of a 1950 Dodge that had been sitting in a yard for almost 20 years I was surprised that it was already a very worn out 0.060" over rebuild. I was able to find some 0.080" over cast pistons, but decided to go a different route (as I have with many aspects of this car). I found a set of modern rings that were metric Toyota but worked out at 0.072" over, then sent the rings and a stock piston to Venolia and had them make a set of forged pistons. Then my machinist made up a honing plate for a 230, machined the block for the pistons, and I've had the short block together ever since. Marty

Mine is at the transmission end as well. My mechanic said to put it there because it will get less vertical movement that might try to throw the grease off. I would have thought that the centripidal force would be a bigger factor, but I did it anyway. Marty

All of the electrical connections under the hood are on a terminal strip that I know is tight; I'll get under the dash and check everything else next weekend. Thanks for the thought. Marty

Okay, here it is: Marty

I put in a set of new 306's, and it started screwing up about 4 blocks from my house. I may have picked up a new clue or two, however. 1. It was idling real slow, so I had to add another quarter turn to the idle screws. Maybe my mechanic is right that I need to go into the carbs? 2. After I got back into the garage I was holding the idle at 1500 RPM, and twice while I was watching the tach it seemed like the ignition cut for a short interval, and the tach needle dipped at the same time. This is a mystery, because the old points ignition is running on a bypass switch connected directly to the battery terminal of the starter solenoid; have to think about this a little. Marty

You've no doubt seen my current thread on suspected HEI problems that has turned out not to be ignition at all. I reinstalled my original points system to prove that point. The coil that Tom sells is from a later Ford with electronic ignition, and is not supposed to have a ballast resistor. Marty

I had this Sun tach installed in my car for a long time It has a separate sender but was converted to be batteryless. That isn't a crack in the lens, it's a reflection of the horn ring. I took it off because I found a neat Chrysler Marine 5000 RPM electronic 270 degree tach that was too good to pass up. I'll give you the old tach if you would like it, you would have to make up a new column mount, as I used the one I had on the new tach. Marty

The frustration continues. This weekend I pulled out the Facet electric fuel pump and its filter and replaced them. Started the engine up and it sounded fine, let it warm up and it still sounded fine. Went for a ride, made it about 6 blocks, was at about 2500 RPM in second gear and felt something as I was pushing in the clutch to shift to third; and it was on maybe 3 cylinders again. Limped back to my place, listening to occasional popping in the exhaust system. Pulled into my garage, jumped out and pulled the plugs, did a compression check; 145-150 on all cylinders with the throttle open. There are no vintage rubber pieces anywhere in the fuel system, and the only thing I haven't tried replacing is the rather large Fram fuel filter. There is no evidence of anything in the carbs. and the fuel level looked okay. Talked to my mechanic, he has suggested pulling the carbs apart and try blowing out all of the fuel passages to see if there is a fleck of junk that is floating around and randomly plugging something up. Maybe next weekend; right now I don't even want to look at the car. Marty

Two thoughts for you: First, the initial timing is meant to be set with the vacuum line disconnected and plugged. Depending on a few other things, having the vacuum connected could make it advanced up to 10 degrees from the initial timing. Second, the easiest ways to time it is to invest in a modern timing light that allows you to always use the TDC mark by dialling in the initial timing. The one I have is an Innova 3568 that I bought on eBay that allows me to set the advance at 4 degrees (or whatever) and use the TDC mark. Marty

Those aren't rims, they are RV-style wheel covers. Marty

Any chance that the adapters that connect to the new shaft are off-center instead of being concentric? That would sure cause a vibration that might not be apparent just looking at the shaft by itself. Marty

Don't know about any that were black, but I had Venolia make some forged pistons for my overbored 230 that were gorgeous. I just sent them a stock piston, a bore diameter, some thoughts on wristpins, and a set of rings that I wanted to use, and was very pleased with the results. Marty

Well, I tried 3 different things this afternoon that were suggested by various people. The first was to make a jumper to run the ignition directly from the battery, bypassing the ignition switch. I actually cut up an AC extension cord, terminated one end appropriately, and put a toggle switch I had on the other end and ran it though the vent window. The car started but ran like crap. So I put in a brand new set of sparkplugs after resetting the gaps to 0.035" Still starts but run like ....... So I pulled out the plugs (which all looked fine, BTW) and did a quick compression test (with the short adapter this time!). With the hand throttle pulled all the way out so the carbs were open, I had 140-145 across the board. So nothing gained by any of these exercises. My next move will probably be to take the spare electric pump, which I've never run, put the quick connect plug on it, then substitute it and its new filter for the one in the car. If I'm right it won't make a difference, but I'll have a known good spare properly configured and ready to go. if I'm wrong, maybe it will have something to do with this dilemma ........ Marty, in frustration PS on the platinum plug issue, I was never able to find an 18mm 1/2" reach conventional plug for my head. The OEM head uses a 3/8" reach plug, but the Edmunds head should have a 1/2" reach plug. Granted, I ran a 3/8" Autolite 306 plug for a long time until I noticed my error, might try it again just because.

When I installed my old points distributor it had its own set of plug leads; same results. Tomorrow I'm going to make up a jumper cable (with a switch) to connect the ignition directly to the battery and try that. Marty