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martybose

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Everything posted by martybose

  1. Sorry Tim, but my generalization was about people who get on their high horses about using GM parts in our Plymouths, not about Slant 6's. Marty
  2. Nope. I like Mopars as much as anyone, but until someone comes out with a slant 6 electronic conversion that is a bolt-in with the correct advance curve for a flathead, I'll stick with my Landon HEI conversion, which only gives me trouble when I try to mess with it. Marty
  3. Since both the transmissions are for small blocks, the bellhousing will be the same size, and the 727 gearcase is only slightly larger than a 904. Marty
  4. You have a much higher chance of distorting bodywork with sand blasting than with steam cleaning, so if steam cleaning gets it clean enough I'd go that way. marty
  5. I was looking at the shop manual for my Bimmer, and was surprised to see a very short-coupled thermostatic fan hub with a plastic fan that mounted on the block side of the hub. You would have to come up with a clever way to mount the hub, as it apparently screws onto the front of the BMW water pump snout, but it might fit. Marty
  6. I've never seen a clutch fan that had the hub thin enough to fit in our cars, but maybe there are some somewhere. Marty
  7. didn't you mean more than KNOT had a few holes in it..? Marty
  8. Nah, the wheels on a Business Coupe should be Chrysler Hemi orange! Marty
  9. You should get a candy thermometer and check the readings at several different temperatures rather than just set it at 212. It took me about 6 tries before I could get mine to read within a degree or two from 120-212. Marty
  10. if you can provide a GPS corrected speed (say an actual GPS 60 MPH reads 74 MPH on the speedo), most speedo shops can make up a correction gearbox (for the example I cited it would be a 0.81 to 1 ratio) that would bolt onto the tranny to correct that. You might need what I used, an extra 6 inch long speedo cable to space the correction gearbox off of the tranny due to space considerations. Marty
  11. I haven't seen anyone point out that you can't just bolt an R10 to a standard 3 speed, you need the special 3 speed tranny that goes with the R10. The tranny case and reverse shifter rail are different so that putting the 3 speed into reverse automatically disengages the R10, otherwise you'd just be turning the overrunning clutch and nothing would happen. Marty
  12. For years I thought my motor ran hot, the one day while I had the head off I took the factory temp gauge and put the sender in hot water with a couple of thermometers. That's when I found that the temp gauge read 20 degrees hotter than actual. After recalibrating it I now get accurate readings. Marty
  13. Watch out for marine engines; a lot of them were raw water cooled and got salt water circulated through them, which tends to make the water jackets really thin and not suitable for rebuilding! Marty
  14. Mine were original vintage ones that had been overhauled by someone who knew what they were doing. I considered going to 94's because the power valves would respond to lowered vacuum, not throttle position like the 97. With the 97's you had to go to full throttle to get enrichment, when you really didn't need full throttle. The detonation was frightening at part throttle! Marty
  15. Before I gave up on them and switched to Carter-Webers I tried a dual carb setup with a pair of 97's. I installed adjustable main jets and started fiddling. I never could get my motor to run right at all speeds; it either accelerated well but wouldn't idle or it idled well and knocked like crazy when you stepped on it. I thought about switching to 94's but went the other way instead and haven't looked back. Marty
  16. Here's an old photo of the linkage I built for my dual carb setup with Carter-Webers. Admittedly a little over the top, but it had to reverse the direction from a pull to a push setup. Marty
  17. Generic floorshifts yes, ones that work with our 3 speed trannies, no. No one currently makes a floor shifter for Mopar 3 speeds from the 30's to 50's. Marty
  18. I bought a pair of Nomex arm sleeves that actually work pretty well for valve adjustments with headers. It's been a long while, but I may have gotten them from McMaster-Carr....... Marty
  19. Not really free, as there is significant back pressure and you lose the tuning effect of header length, which is always sacrificed for shorter run length, but I agree that you don't lose anything like the 900 HP number for a fuel motor's blower ...... Marty
  20. I used them a decade ago, and they were very helpful. I speced a number of changes, like deleting wires for the voltage regulator since I use a 1-wire alternator, provisions for headlight relays and turn signals. larger gauge wires for the headlights, and everything came out perfect. Marty
  21. I'm not sure I agree. If the one barrel carb is the limiting factor, a two barrel will work better even if it is breathing through the one barrel manifold. Marty
  22. If you go to the link listed below, there's a couple on the front page, specifically 7407 and 7408. Marty Post edit; just saw the photos that Don posted; one change since then is that the head has been polished since then, so the engine compartment gleams! It's also gotten new bumpers and a few other things since those were taken.
  23. I've never posted on the truck side, but had to jump in to say a hearty thanks for the truck group allowing a few interlopers from the car side to attend. I had one hell of a fun time, and was extremely surprised when the truck crowd gave me both the best modified engine and the best L6 awards! I will definitely be looking forward to attending next year's event! Marty
  24. When I first installed my OD unit it wouldn't shift either. It turned out that I had the cable installed wrong and it wasn't getting enough throw to allow the interlock to work correctly. Adjusting it for full throw fixed it. Marty
  25. Hah! I live across the bay from San Francisco, have fog lights (on relays!) because the car had them when I bought it, and haven't ever needed them. I did try to turn them on once, on a moonless night on a sharp twisty road, and managed to blow the main headlight fuse. It turned out that the horn was against a lug on a barrier strip, just waiting for me to turn on the foglights! Fixed it years ago, still haven't turned the foglights on again. Marty
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