martybose

It's the term for someone who is logging in via a dial-up modem on a phone line at 16K instead of a megabit connection on DSL or whatever whizzy fast connection that most of us are on these days ..... Marty

Yeah, I had already found this, and have the forum sorted with the newest post at the top. I've been clearing a lot of the previously read posts because of the reset counters (although I can't find the "mark all posts read" anymore either, but haven't found anything to change the action of the "Next Unread Topic" yet ...... Marty

Well, so far I've managed to get my profile straightened out, and got the forum sorted by new posts. But every time I hit the "Next Unread Topic" button it goes the wrong way to the next oldest topic, not the next newest. Haven't figured a a way around this yet ......... Marty

Thanks for all of the replies; I just checked back in to read them. To answer the questions, the OD is shifting perfectly, and there is no slippage of any kind when the OD is engaged. My car is 12V, but still running a 6V solenoid, and all of the electrical logic is handled by a relay system that I designed using all new parts from McMaster-Carr, which is working perfectly. The consensus seems to be to check the oil level. The problem is that the car is 100 miles away from my tools, so I guess I will plan to bring some tools up on the next trip so that I can remove the seat and the floor pan and check the oil level; I'll call my mechanic and see if he remembers what oil he put in. I will check all of the bolts around the driveshaft, but since the noise only happens when the OD engages and is totally silent at the same speed with the OD locked out, I'm pretty sure the noise is internal to the OD. Marty

Well, I searched for overdrive noise, but most of the posts seemed to be about throwout bearing issues. Mine's a little different, so here goes. My R10 OD box was installed a number of years ago, and has worked flawlessly and quietly. Recently I took the car out for a drive, shifted into and out of OD several times, no issues. I come to a stop sign, take off and go through the gears, then shift into OD, and the OD suddenly starts whining. Stopped the car, went through the same sequence several times, the gearbox is totally silent until the OD engages and you step on the gas, then a whine. After a few tries the whining starts getting a little louder, so I stopped, locked out the OD and drove (silently) home. So, has anyone ever had this happen and find a cause that fixed it? Unfortunately, the guy who rebuilt the box and installed it retired and moved a few states away, so I can't take it to him. The tranny itself seems fine, and the whining only occurs under power in 3rd over. Maybe a bearing or a thrust washer? Any thoughts? Marty

That's why I switched from ported to manifold vacuum, as the more throttle you use the less vacuum advance you get. I found that the car ran smoother at low RPM with the manifold vacuum. It theory you should get better gas mileage at cruising speed with more advance, but I've never bothered to try and prove it. Marty

Yeah, that's my engine. I have a good timing light that lets me dial in an offset with a digital readout, so I just ran the motor under various conditions to get the numbers I listed. Marty

I don't have a spec sheet, but I can tell you what mine does. All references are to engine RPM and crankshaft degrees. The centrifugal advance starts at 1300 RPM and adds 13 degrees by the time it is all in at 2800 RPM. My vacuum advance adds 19 degrees at full advance. Unlike most, I run manifold vacuum as a source, with 3 degrees static timing, so I have 22 degrees at idle and 16 degrees at full throttle above 2800 RPM. Marty

That problem works both ways; I see more drivers who move into a fast lane that was moving smoothly at 75 MPH and then drive along at 64 MPH as they pass the car in the next lane going 63. And of course they don't care that they are stacking up traffic, and they won't move over a lane when they get a chance, just keep poking along until they move up enough that everyone can move over and pass them on the right. That sign they passed said "Slower traffic keep right", NOT "Slower traffic keep right unless you're driving the speed limit". Personally if I'm running 75 and someone comes up behind me I move over if I have a clear lane to move into. Marty

I used Rhode Island, and they worked with me to modify it significantly. I had relays with larger wire for the headlights, deleted the voltage regulator wiring because of my one-wire alternator, added turn signal wiring, and much more. Highly recommended! Marty

I agree about the timing; I'm running at 3 degrees static with the vacuum disconnected. I'm also running straight manifold vacuum, so it has more advance at idle. Marty

I've always thought that many of the NRA position's were way over the top, and I object mightily to their political clout. But early this year we bought some property in the country, and the seller advised us to get at least a shotgun to deal with the wildlife. So we signed up for introductory shotgun and pistol classes, and it has been interesting. Who would have guessed that my wife would like firing a shotgun, and in the pistol intro class we were shooting the instructor's personal guns, and it was worth the price of admission to watch my daughter when she pulled the trigger on a Dirty Harry-style 44 magnum revolver. So we already have a locked room that the weapons will be kept in, and trigger locks will be the order of the day. We will all know how to load, unload and clean anything we own, and I will hope that we never need to open that door. Marty

The other advantage with a Rhode Island harness is that they will work with you on modifications. The one they did for my 47 was modified for a one-wire alternator, heavier gauge wire for halogen headlights, provisions for a dual headlight relay, added turn signal wiring, and probably half a dozen more things that I don't remember any more. A very satisfying experience! marty

I had to take a grinder to the rivet heads just a little to fit my Vintiques. Marty

I like orange, but then I'm biased (see current profile photo!). Marty

As I recall it was in ther $400+ range, but I'll check when I get home tonight. This was for a 12V AM/FM w/ iPod conversion, and the only clue from the outside is the connector for the iPod and an extra LED hidden in the dial. Marty

I had someone else install mine; the info is at home. It wasn't cheap, but all of the original pushbuttons work, the dial works, and it has an input for my iPod. I'll give you the side covers for the cost of the postage. Marty

I used my 802 for years as an AM original, and only switched to a modern radio (inside the 802 case) when I converted to car to 12V for other reasons. I liked it both ways. Aren't 800 and 802 side panels the same? If they are, I've got a set of them from a parts radio that I could provide. Marty

Okay, I'll bite; what does a picture of a young Dan Gurney sitting on what looks like a Vanwall have to do with anything? Marty, just curious .........

I don't think you could do an invisible weld, even using TIG welding. I've seen experts TIG weld 2 halves of a beer can together without warping, but you still have a seam to deal with. That would not be a problem with the new super glues ..... Marty

I totally agree. When I was rewiring the engine compartment on my 47 I had a custom length 00 gauge battery ground cable made from the battery to one of the starter bolts, with two additional 4 gauge jumpers going to the frame (one of the clutch pivot mounting bolts) and to the body on the firewall. No ground problems for me! Marty

.... IF they haven't been "upgraded" with digital vibrators, which are polarity sensitive. Marty

All very true, but there is one additional area to look at with Fatman spindles. On mine the bolts for the two holes at the bottom of the spindle had to be put in from the outside in order to clear the brake disk, and the bolt length on the inside was what limited the steering travel. One of these days I will take off the spindles, have the ends countersunk and then have a set of countersunk allen-head bolts cut down to the right length to clear the brakes; that will restore most of the missing travel. Marty

A nice story, and a great thought for the payment. Marty

I wonder if the engine in the Mustang replica is a Falconer V-12, or if it is something else with some fake exhaust stacks ..... Marty