martybose

Don, I doubt that I have any of the issues you mentioned, because I had the top end of the motor apart and cleaned everything while I was replacing all of the valves. Having dealt with broken valvesprings with a prior set of plated springs, I haven't heard anything that makes me think that is an issue. Add to that the fact that the symptoms don't immediately appear, then suddenly they are affecting multiple cylinders. Something else is at work here. Marty

I'm using a Facet electric fuel pump, located next to the fuel tank. Although I can't check it while I'm driving, the fuel pressure gauge on my distribution block shows a constant 3 pounds, just like it always has. Since I've got a new plastic tank, new fuel lines and 2 inline filters that look fine, I think I'm okay there. Funny you should mention the ignition switch; as I was typing my entry this morning I was thinking about how many wires are on the switch and was wondering about installing a relay to power the ignition directly from the battery; might try that. Marty

I tried an experiment yesterday. I dug out the box that contained my original points ignition system. It had the distributor, the coil, the ballast resistor, and it's own set of sparkplug wires; the only part in common with the HEI system was the wire coming from the ignition switch. I closed the sparkplug gaps down to 0.035", got it all installed, got it timed, and it was running well. Went for a ride, got one block from my house, and it started misfiring, just like before. So apparently it isn't an ignition problem after all, it's something else. The week before I had opened up both of my Carter-Weber carbs to see if maybe there was some crud in them, or maybe some evidence of float level problems, but they were clean as a whistle and the float levels were fine. I called my mechanic, who unfortunately is retired and 1000 miles away now, and ran it down for him. He asked if their was a heat riser that could be screwed up (No, because neither my Edmunds intake manifold nor my Phillips cast iron headers have provisions for one; the Edmunds is water heated). He asked if I was losing any coolant, thinking about an internal leak in the Edmunds, but I said I only had a very small external leak that I hadn't fixed yet, no significant loss of coolant. His closing thought was that it might be something that is introducing a vacuum leak after the engine heats up. This problem has been with me for two years now, and I still don't have a clue about the cause, and I'm getting a little depressed about it. Marty

No, the problem doesn't manifest that way. This morning it started misfiring within 30 seconds of starting the engine; the temp gauge needle hadn't even started to move yet. I'm starting to wonder if I'm missing something else; I might pull the tops off of the carbs and look around tomorrow. Marty

Well, changing the coil and the ignition module didn't improve the situation, so I decided to replace the pickup coil (since it is the last electric part in the distributor). Took the distributor out, took it apart, installed the new pickup. Unfortunately it is a chinese-built piece that was slightly bent, so the reluctor was hitting one of the poles. Loosening the screws didn't do it, so I was trying to support the stamped steel part while "persuading" it with a small hammer. I guess I didn't support it right, as part of the distributor casting broke off. So now I will be ordering another distributor and starting over again. At least now I have quite a collection of spare parts for the next one! Marty, sorta bummed out .................

There are lots of options; you just need to decide how far you want to go. Fatman makes a replacement front frame section with a Mustang II suspension. A number of people have grafted in Dakota front frame sections. There are others, I'm sure. Marty

I liked the engine driven fan until the day that without any warning it threw a blade at about 2500 RPM and sliced through both the fender and the hood on the passenger side of my 47. It was very eye-opening, considering how thick those pieces of metal are! I now prefer electric fans! Marty

I'll keep that in mind! I can't see any reason to put a 9" Ford behind a flathead, but I would like to put an 8" with disk brakes and a 3.50-3.70ish gear ratio in my 47. Marty

When mine is working right it is the same as yours. Typically 160-170 while driving, gets up to about 190 after coming off the freeway, but cools off pretty quickly when the fans come on. The cooling off after the freeway only happens if it is dropping cylinders. One person has suggested that this particular ignition was designed for 0.050" gap, not 0.060". I suppose the module could be getting a bit overworked by too large a gap, so I will be closing the gap a bit in the next day or so. Marty

The vehicle: 1947 Plymouth Business Coupe 230 ci flat head 6 from a 1950 Dodge; about 5K miles on a complete rebuild 9 to 1 compression with Edmunds aluminum head Dual Carter-Weber carbs on an Edmunds manifold cast iron dual 3-into-1 headers, dual 2 inch exhaust pipes very mild aftermarket cam No engine-driven fan, dual electric pusher fans in front of the radiator The ignition: HEI ignition from Langdon's Stovebolts, modified for a Mopar flathead original application 1984 Chevy 2.8L V-6; internal module, external coil MSD 8.5mm plug wires Autolite AP 425 platinum plugs, gapped at .060" (had to use 0.043" indexing washers, as the exhaust valves were closing the plug gap!) The problem: I have been having what I believe is a heat-soak problem. I can drive all day around town with no problems, but if I go on the freeway, drive a few miles, then pull off and stop at a stoplight idling, when I take off I'm missing a few cylinders. My supposition; the ignition heats up from lack of air flow (remember, no engine driven fan). I can usually spot it starting, because instead of heating up at the light it cools off; apparently an unfired air/fuel mix pulls heat out of an aluminum head real well. If I let it sit overnight it starts up and runs just fine. My first thought was either the coil or the ignition module. I replaced the coil first, no improvement. Last weekend I replaced the ignition module in the distributor using thermal paste. Started fine, ran around town fine, made two freeway runs with no issues. I was coming home to celebrate, hit a stoplight just half a mile from my house. Noticed the water temp dropping, and bigger than life it dropped some cylinders as soon as the light changed. Wasn't as bad as before, almost cleared up when the revs got above 2500, but definitely not right. Questions: 1. Should I try another ignition module? 2. Could the ignition pickup be bad? I've got another one of those if it makes sense. 3. Am I missing something else that I should be looking at? The car has an alternator and holds 13.7 volts, so I think I'm okay there. Marty, a bit frustrated .........

I have both, because the later (red) one is the only one that has overdrive information in it, since OD wasn't offered in P15's. Marty

Did you have to get an 8" built for your car, or did you find one that the right width? Marty

I just changed to a taller rear tire, so I made a freeway run with my GPS to find out how far off my speedo is. With the stock rearend gears and the overdrive engaged, 3000 RPM was 80 MPH. Marty

Not really, a good set of vacuum wipers will work really well when you add a vacuum storage canister! Mine is hidden behind a body brace at the bottom of the firewall on the passenger side, and works great! Marty

Perfect! That way when they have some weird problem you can come back on a contract basis at about four times your old salary! Marty

Mine weren't anything like this; more like B1258 on page 126. This probably isn't the right one, but is roughly what they looked like. Marty

My hood moldings had studs in them, and fastened inside the hood with nuts and lockwashers. Marty

I rewired my entire car with several of their harnesses; very high quality! The wire is modern wire with a cloth wrap that matches the OEM wire. When I pointed out the missing wire to the left door pillar interior light switch they sent me everything to complete it, plus asked for measurements to add to their information. They were also receptive to building a special harness with modifications; mine came set up for turn signals and the headlight relay setup that I was using. Marty

Interesting point about the gloves. My business coupe has a 20 lb. dry chemical extinguisher in a quick release bracket mounted vertically behind the seat; might have to think about the gloves. Having been through a Navy firefighting school (a long time ago!) I do believe that it could knock down the fire as shown in the photos, providing that you can keep knocking it down until it cools off enough to stop relighting. Marty

A modern speaker will work fine; I ran a Radio Shack-sourced one in my 47 for years. Marty

I'd start by disconnecting the linkage, then adjust the idle speed adjustment (the one on the throttle linkage) until the blades are completely closed, then open them both up an equal amount. Do the same thing with the idle mixture screw; close it all of the way, then open to (if I remember the instructions) 1-1/2 turns. Then reconnect the linkage, being careful not to let it move the throttles. From then on, always adjust both carbs equal amounts on any adjustment. Marty

Yep, that's what I did too. I just got the car running with a new set of valves a couple of weeks ago, but I've got an issue with the new front brakes to deal with before I drive it much. Marty

The fronts are 215/60x15 Radial TA's. Marty

I am running Wheel Vintique 15x6 front wheels with an ECI front disk brake kit, which moves the rim mount out about 3/4". I special ordered the rims with the maximum backspacing that WV could make, which if memory serves was 4". With dropped spindles I have good tire clearance. Marty

We've been trying Windows 7 at work in preparation for an upgrade later this year. The one major issue for us has been printer drivers; we've had to get new versions for all of them. We've also been trying the newest version of Office; other than looking a lot different, we haven't had much in the way of problems with files created by older versions of Word, Excel or Access. Marty