martybose

No part numbers, but I've got a set of front hubs/drums that I just took off of my car when I converted to front disks that have 3 inch long 7/16" studs installed. Freight would probably be a bear, but if you'd like them ...... Marty

Anyone want to bet on whether the transmission is an aftermarket Powerglide? Bet they won't mention that! Marty

I'd modify the statement to "It's usually an air problem". When I was experimenting with both of the advance mechanisms on my HEI I took it for a drive with way too much total advance in it. It would run, but the temperature climbed at highway speeds. Reducing the total advance to something rational fixed it. Marty

Sounds like it is time to update your location, which currently says you're in Texas! Marty

James, I had the same concerns when I installed my ECI front brakes. For several reasons I was in the mood for new front rims to replace the 15x6 standard offset rims that I bought from Wheel Vintique. I was able to buy some 15x6 rims from them with 1/2" more backspacing, and it looks like that will do it. Won't know for sure until I actually drive it again; the engine has been fired, but I need to modify and reinstall the transmission tunnel before I can drive it! Marty

Bill, That is a nice wagon! Understated, yet very crisp, and interesting updating cues. Plus I like wagons, particularly 2 door ones. I've told my wife that if we ever hit the lottery, I will buy a Caddy CTS-V wagon with a 6 speed! Zoom, zoom! Marty

I was in southern California about 70 miles from the epicenter of one of the big ones, and after getting more or less thrown out of my bed in the hotel, I looked out the window and watched about 2 foot waves crashing around in the swimming pool. Closer to home for the Lomo Prieta quake. About the same distance from the epicenter, in a single story building built on a mudflat by driving steel pilings down 60 feet into bedrock. So when it hit the whole building started moving 2 or 3 feet each way on top of those pilings, whipping everything around like crazy. The lights went out, then a big gushing sound as the fire main into the building broke. And I've been through a few others. But I tell you what; I'll stick with the occasional earthquake if the choice was between where I am and say hurricane alley in Florida, or some of the midwest tornado regions. Maybe it's just what you're used to, but I've never lost anything in any of the earthquakes other than time, and I have plenty of that. Marty

Another possibility is that your temp gauge is off. I had my 47 for 10 years of thinking it ran a little on the hot side before I took the temp gauge out and found that it was reading almost 20 degrees hotter than it should. After an extended effort at recalibrating it so that it was accurate from 150 degrees to 212 degrees, I found that the engine was running almost 20 degrees cooler than I had thought it was. YMMV, of course. marty

When we were plumbing my engine my mechanic recommended that I use the heated intake manifold, so at various times I have had exhaust piped to an Offenhauser manifold from my exhaust headers, and a couple of different hot water setups for my Edmunds intake manifold that start at the rear of the head (separate from the heater plumbing), go through the manifold and dump into the thermostat housing above the thermostat, so that it free-flows to the radiator at all times. I can't give a reason why I did it that way, it just is that way. Marty

It's kind of funny how the weather is going; they're predicting snow in San Francisco for tomorrow, the first time it's snowed since 1976! Marty

I also have a NAPA pump, a good unit. One thing you need to know, however, is that it is set up for internal bypass, and you need to either weld up the hole or change the backplate for an external bypass engine. The top of the casting is set up for either the bolt-on adapter for the external bypass or for a pipe-thread adapter for a heater hose on an internal bypass engine. Marty

My first thought is that you'll find that the turbos are too large, since you'll never turn a flathead at the RPM that the original application did, but it might be fine anyway, just maybe a little lazy off of idle. Marty

I had talked to Hagerty before I went with Grundy. I told them everything I had done to the drivetrain (which is a lot), but for Hagerty the dealbreaker was the 1-1/2" lowering blocks on the rear springs; Grundy didn't care about them. I guess if I replaced the rear springs with dearched springs I could have used Hagerty! Marty

Interesting thread, as both of the defroster vents on my 47 Business coupe are straight; maybe the driver's side isn't original? Marty

It's simple. The camshaft and lifters are lubricated by oil thrown up from the crankshaft. If the engine is idling there isn't much getting up there, yet the initial startup is when the greatest wear occurs and the camshaft lobes and the llifters get used to each other. So the best bet is to keep the RPM up for the initial startup. Marty

My insurance is with Grundy for $25K value, just got the renewal for $330/year. Marty

This is true in the context of modern cars, which generally used 60 watt headlights, but don't forget that our cars were originally speced with 30 watt headlights, so you are asking for double the current. When I first installed my 60W 6V halogens, both the headlight switch and the dimmer switch got very hot; headlight relays were the answer. Marty

Michael, I stayed out of this one, but I have to feel sorry for you, as you really don't have a clue as to how easily you manage to hit everyone else's hot buttons. Apparently all of your degrees didn't teach you common sense or humility. I've got a degree, worked lots of years in high tech industry as an innovator, wrenched on exotic race cars as a hobby. I've had my 47 Plymouth since 1994, and yet every week I learn something more about it that I didn't know before. All I had to do was listen to all the people with more experience than I have, and share my experiences with things that I have done. And if GTK ever sells you the forum you'll be very happy with it, because you'll have it all to yourself in short order. Marty

I'm not sure if they still sell it, but at one point Lokar had a kit to do exactly that. Marty

... is an external bypass system. An internal bypass system will have a steel formed thermostat housing with no hose going forward to the water pump, and the front of the head will have a bump that lines up with a hole in the deck that is the bypass path into the waterpump. Marty

15 is fine if you are using ported vacuum (which isn't present with the throttle closed), but it is way too high with manifold vacuum. I tried his number first, and didn't like the results. I pick up almost 19 degrees with vacuum applied and another 13 from centrifugal advance, so 15+19 was 34 degrees to turn over with the starter, and add 13 more at speed for 53 degrees at a fast cruise!! My car was hard to start and would start overheating on the freeway. After switching to manifold vacuum and experimenting with initial advance, I now have 4+19=23 to start, 4+19+13=36 at fast cruise, with 4+13=17 if I stand on it at speed. The last could probably be more if I wanted to modify the distributor for additional centrifugal advance, but I don't. I can live with this. Marty

I'm glad to hear that Tom may have seen the light. I've been running manifold vacuum to my HEI for years, and have been arguing that it made more sense on a modified motor. Try 4 degrees BTDC with the vacuum disconnected and blocked as a starting point. Marty

Be careful with that last!! I can state categorically that with an Edmunds head it is possible to bend valves by using the wrong spark plug adapter! Marty

Likewise Venolia; they made the custom pistons in my motor. Marty

Maybe in your part of the state; the San Francisco area has been really cold recently. Marty