pflaming

Yesterday I pushed the suburban out of the shop for a bath. I hate to work on a dusty car. I've got black steel rims on now, seems to be a more current look. Engineand transmission will go back in next week. I need to finis some of the floor shifter parts before it can go in with the engine . Very slow going with my gimpy leg yet I do a little each day.

I put the final rims and tires on my suburban this morning with the required five bolts, when using rollers, I only used three bolts. One bolt thread is stripped!! So is that drum irreparable?

They are there as spares for whatever. Warranty items! LOL now aren't you glad you asked?

Maybe you can stack Gerry Cans in that space! LOL . If it really bothers you, I would have a piece of light metal formed to fit side top side. No one would be the wiser.

I would center that box over the wheels, a three inch space between the cab and the box will not be noticed. I would think to move the rear axle forward would pose a host of problems, driving for one. JMHO

Rims: I used the truck to spin the rims so I could sand them for painting. All went fine until the last one which has a.huge wobble. So now I have two (2) 15" X 4 1/2 rims and one (1) 15" X 5 . Oh and two very nice 16" with clips for which I have no use. I can't upload, only allows 3 ........... damn frustrating. Been deleting attachments also. Now I can, seems a bit of profanity hills!!! So I could upload two, I deleted one to upload a different pic and now can't upload again. So I deleted the other pic and now I can't upload again.

PThe surgery was 10 weeks ago, not a pleasant first eight weeks, but much better now. Knee seems to be fine, now working on lost muscle strength. Yet there are a lot of movements that are NOT tolerated, so progress is slow. Maybe get the engine back in this weekend.

An additional comment, almost without exception, when I open the hood, the comments are somewhat like this, "Wow, you kept the flathead six! That is cool!" And when I reach in from the outside, push the start button and it immediately starts at idle, they are really impressed. Those are additional reasons I like my flathead.

While it appears R 10's are not plentiful in California. I have found five here in the valley, the last one in Bakersfield, Ca. They are here, one just needs to keep alert. The most I've paid is $800 and I got a tired 54 Suburban free, and sold more than $800 worth of parts off that suburban so the OD was free. R 10 is one of Borg-Warners overdrive transmissions, the one most commonly used in the late 40's and into the early 60's Mopars. This in reply to the following post.

Several years ago a friend with a very nice 47 coupe with a small MOPAR V8 and I with a stock 218, 3 speed, in front of a 3:73 rear axle, B3B truck drove together some 180 miles one way. We both filled up side by side at the start, then again side by side on the return drive. Our mpg was identical, I used 1/4 gal more fuel. So I'm sold on the flathead six.

Robert, found an extra part complete. That part with the secure end sockets has to be removed before the engine is removed or one of the secured sockets must be released. I don't recall this connection when I removed the engine. Now I need to clean and paint these parts. I wonder if I they were painted when new. Note that the pedal connecting rod has elongated holes. Special spring clips hold it in place. See manual for particulars.

1. Welder: i read Miller Welders' explanation of flux wire and plain wire with gas welding and will keep the flux wire welder. 2. The clutch assembly is interesting. I need the two end bearings in this connector piece. Suggested sources are welcomed. The upper picture shows the assembly for the late '40's cluthch. My '53 is a little different. 3. The stock drum brakes are in excellent condition so I won't install disc brakes at this time. The new knee and healing leg do not like the body stretching and twisting required for such installation work so need to remain cautious, yet I'm back in the shop.

I seldom use my 10" square heater and when I do I run it in on low fan. My reason for dual heaters is for my daughter in Indianapolis, who will get the truck. To have a heater and a defroster might be nice, although Indianapolis is not a super cold climate.

I have thought of dual heaters also, but I would use one for the defroster one for heat only. These heaters put out a LOT of heat.

To remove the rear freeze plug the clutch housing need to be removed. This week I cleaned up this engine. It's quite evident how some previous owner removed the tube. Also note where the freeze plug is. (Brass plug)

I recently purchased an 80 amp flux wire welder, by Chicago Engineering,, at Harbor Freight. I understand the gas bottle upgraded model is superior to this one on thin metal like car bodies, floors, etc. since I have access to a commercial Miller welder for such work, will this welder fit most basic shop welding needs? I have a great deal of welding experience both with wire and stick so that will not be a challenge.

IF, Henry Ford was as frugal as stated, I wonder why he didn't sell new cars with their "original patinas" and save the cost of paint? Shucks, compared to me he was a high roller, no pun intended.

I so miss chat, so as second best, to the many who are on line this morning who I know, Good Morning!

Which is why you always count to 10 after you open the door before you exit!

I used the factory service manual(s) to build my truck and Suburban and found them to be sufficient and helpful. When I srarted some six or seven years ago, I had no experience in auto mechanics so I started reaching up to touch bottom yet I learned. To me the key is the vocabulary, so an ever present dictionary is key. The second key is to learn the how it wows and why it works especially with the engine, it is a cause and effect machine and for example, one must understand the relationship between air, fuel, and fire and timing to ignite the three. And I asked questions on this forum and many responded and helped for which I'm am very grateful. There is a time honored adage that states: one must read new material a minimum of three times to start to understand the content. Do that, slowly read the sentence or paragraph at least three times before proceeding and experience the difference. My very best to you and others, for this is a very rewarding experience for me. I'm 79 years old, if I can, you can.

Engine is a T124, a truck engine. Could that have been for horns? It seems to me a wolf whistle came off there somewhere.

When I use clear coat, I use Prep and Prime from ACE first, it clear primes the metal and I think the clear adheres better. Just an unstudied observation. All this looks so familiar. A very nice morning read, TKS. pic of my front frame '53 Plymouth, engine is waiting for installation.

Our son and his family live in the woods north of bath Maine. Some years ago he was about to leave the back door and found a moose between him and his car. He told me, that Moose was one large animal and I decided my immediate plans could wait!

Quiet Ride also has good products. Their tech help started that sound deadening occurs when the metal cannot resonat therefore total coverage on floors and in doors etc is not required. The thickness of the product is secondary but the adhesive is primary, it must stick tight. I under coated all replacement floor pieces then will put Seal and Peal on the top in my suburban. Im starting to do a little more each day, slow going with a tender leg. It's amazing how much the legs are involved in nearly every thing one does.