Merle Coggins

We often heat gears or bearings in oil to ease press fits onto shafts. I've also frozen shafts or bearings in dry ice to shrink them to ease pressing. I've also done both as you have. Usually if it doesn't slip together quickly, before the heat starts to transfer, you're screwed and will need a good press. The key is to have everything setup and ready, then work quickly.

Interesting that Chrysler used that technology on the industrial engines. I've worked with many diesel engines with gear driven cams. It's fairly normal technology in that world. In some engines they are geared directly as you show, and in others there are idler gears between the crank and cam gears. On the newer Volvo engines, with overhead cams, they are still gear driven with several idlers in between. Some of these idlers also drive other accessories. Obviously cams can work in either direction as long as they are ground properly for that rotation direction. Was the delay in getting your cam ground due to the lack of understanding of the reverse rotation, or just because you weren't important enough for them to get on it? We would all hope that all customers would be treated with equal importance, but in reality the high volume customers tend to get more attention.

The B1B truck is much easier. Just 3 bolts and one brake line and it’ll come right out. It’s fairly easy to access on the front side of the bell housing. Might need to work from the top and bottom, depending on your arm length.

Depends on what you’re testing...

Isn't there some place that holds an annual pumpkin chucking contest? I've seen things on that. People come up with some pretty elaborate slingshots, catapults, and trebuchet's in attempt to get the most distance out of an orange gourd.

Interesting diagnostic approach. That’s certainly thinking outside the box.

The B3 had an under-the-dash parking brake vs. the floor lever, so the linkage arrangement was different. I don't know if that will have an effect on how your WC linkage will attach to the trans.

Then and Now Automotive.

The line from the pump down to the frame is likely the suction line. Unlikely it was leaking that much gas unless the tank level is higher than the hose. If it was pumping out as much gas as you state, and stopped leaking when the engine was shut off, you have a leak on the pressure side. Inspect everything well.

I have an electric fuel pump on my truck too. I initially had it inline with the mechanical pump to assist in filling the carb after a long period between uses. I found that sometimes it couldn't pump through the mechanical pump, but if I cranked the engine briefly it would begin to flow. I believe the diaphragm position had something to do with that. I also found that it was handy to switch on when things got hot under the hood and the mechanical pump struggled to pump. The electric pump would give a boost to the mechanical pump and the engine would run better. Since then I have replumbed it to run in parallel with the mechanical pump. They both have internal check valves that prevent back flow. I ran a second fuel line, along side the first one, for the electric pump. A tee fitting at the outlet of the tank to feed both circuits, and a tee fitting at the outlet of the mechanical pump to merge the pump outlets. This has worked well for me for the last couple of years. I can still use the electric pump to prime the carb without worry about the mechanical pump blocking it. And I can still use it as a booster if needed.

Start with a voltage check at the coil and points. This will establish if your key switch is good, and if the points can provide the necessary ground for the coil.

If it is as good as you describe I would only check that it is full of lubricant and leave it alone. I would only open it up if I needed to replace the seals due to leakage. If it holds oil and has very little play, as you describe, why mess with it?

Double check your points spring. I had it happen to me. I didn’t get the spring hooked properly and there was very little spring tension. It would start and run great at lower RPM. when it got up around 2000 RPM the points would start to float and the timing would go crazy. Engine would loose power, cough, and sputter.

At least a day or 2... ?

I believe the originals were clear. I used the green tint on mine and I'm happy with it. The green tint was cheaper from my glass guy because that's what he had in stock.

There SHOULD be a dimple in the end of the axle shaft. This dimple helps to center the puller. And as mentioned, be sure they are using the correct type of puller. It should attach to the lugs and press against the end of the shaft, with a point on the end of the puller bolt that centers into the afore mentioned dimple. I recommend leaving the nut on loose to catch the drum when it pops loose. Otherwise everything will go flying across the shop.

There should be an adjustment on the clutch pedal. You may need to back off the adjustment bolt to allow the clutch fork to move further, then readjust to the proper free play once it’s together.

My engine block has a threaded bolt boss along the oil pan rail, under the starter. I used that to run a ground wire between the engine and the chassis. If your engine has that it may be a good ground location for your main battery cable.

Looks good.

If your fuel bowl was full the pump is not the problem. However, you may have an accelerator pump issue if it didn't squirt fuel when you moved the throttle linkage. As for 'cutting out' at 20-30 MPH, it could be that the points are not installed properly. Some have a spring that runs parallel to the points arm. If it doesn't get hooked in place properly there is very little spring tension and the points will start to bounce, or float, at higher RPM's.

They are welsh plugs. Install them the same way you would do on an engine for coolant welsh plugs, aka 'freeze plugs'. Set them in and dimple them flat with a hammer, or large drift punch. No sealant is needed if the surfaces are clean.

The outer groove may be for attaching the stainless trim.

Are you sure it's the pilot bushing making the noise and not the throw-out bearing?

Yikes... I don't have much advice on a field fix to get you going, but that is probably why it wouldn't idle. I had a hard starting, rough idle, issue many years back when my cheap points rub block wore down rapidly and my points would barely open. I'd guess that with the points plate floating around that your points weren't functioning properly. Plus the timing would likely float around too. Could you possibly use machine screw with a locking nut for a temporary fix? It would depend on space above and below for the head and nut.

Good news that no serious damage was done with the green paint. Bummer on the motorcycle tank repaint... I had a can of spray paint spontaneously start to leak while on the shelf in my laundry room. It had probably been there for several years and I believe the can seam rusted, but one day I could smell paint fumes in the house but couldn't identify where it would be coming from. As I walked past the laundry room I heard a hissing noise. I opened the door and noticed the mist. Fortunately all the paint pigments were settled at the bottom and the leak happened about half way up. It was only clear paint solvents, but it was still a mess to clean up. Once I realized what it was I grabbed the can to toss it in the garbage, stirring up the pigments in the process. It started spraying color into the garbage can. I got it outside to remove the fumes and commenced to cleaning up the mess.