Dodgeb4ya

Connect the vacuum gauge directly to the intake manifold.. Should be a plug on it to remove for a line fitting.

Did he re-crimp the can? Does it look nice?

A very very nicely done car! Thanks for showing it?

MyMopar has Vol.3 #3 "The Story of Valves" film on the valves/guides and why they are made the way they are etc....and proper installation. I have a couple 323's straight eight engines...Seattle PM only for more info.

7/16" X 14 tpi flathead head bolts are what I have used at times to pull those plunger valves out.

Mr Tech....He died of throat cancer in the late 60's. He was a heavy smoker.

I have not and never will...like my trucks with factory parts.

The optional glove compartment and map light package for the Dodge is #1232608

Buy a upper line Chrysler... you get most all the options! That's why I have them.

I am having the same leak on a 413 six I just finished rebuilding last year... not a bad leak but after a week a small amount of coolant weeping next to the housing and head.. Corrosion/erosion of the thermostat housing... the thermostat housing gasket had to try to seal a thin area on the housing. Could not get it to stop weeping. Finally found a nice thermostat housing that was not eroded....end of leak.

Felpro #3011 gasket sheet .015" thk. is what you want...

The engine in the above picture looks like the std 265 in a 53-54 windsor... ..Dual grooved pulleys for power steering ..Curved out oil filler pipe for P/S generator.. Why do you need rods?..oil starvation?

Oh.

Real MoPar swan necks are tough to find...universal chinese swan neck mirrors...naw.

Swan necks are so hard to find and so rare ..do what ever you have to to have/own a nice pair of them... I figured that out in the late 70's. They are like owning real estate here in the Seattle area.

Oh yeah...the old "Ballard Oil" truck...for 15 years it was on top of two 40' foot containers down in a Buckley wrecking yard.. Bought it for $250.00 + $100.00 for delivery. A 1951 4 tonner with air and a 377. It always fires right up after sitting for six months and runs and drives ( got to prime the carbs of course). It's got patina...think that's what some call it. Last summer the left rear outer 10.00X 20 exploded? in the 108 degree? temperatures...scared the hell out of me....shook all the shop doors..sounded like two M80's! ....Plus the smell of rubber inner tube gas for 20 minutes. Can hardly wait to drive it around the property this summer...oh plus "Old Blue" too...a 2-3/4 tonner...had that running last summer too. And of course "Big Red"...and the 306ci. bus! Oh the love of the big Dodge trucks!

You are working on the least important motor!

Easy to fix cracked tires... Hatdong tire crack filler...

Inside the governor....point contacts

On the interrupter switch (single post threaded stud)...use a ohmmeter... With the interrupter removed..push the ball inward, ohmmeter should show continuity... release the ball none....open circuit. Be careful to try to not damage the governor gasket as it's thickness if replaced with too thick or thin affects cut in/cut out speeds for auto shifting.

If you are going to remove the axle shafts and don't have the tooling Keith's way usually will pull the axle shafts right out. Remember the eight cylinder car chassis parts are all unique...bigger and heavier than the smaller six cylinder cars. Also there are two choices for rear axle shaft inner and outer seals...be careful when ordering. Usually there will be a part number on the seals...use those #'s..plus the inner/outer and width measurements when ordering.

Make it a test so we can all learn good or bad if the magic stop leak works. I have never seen a M-5 that doesn't leak a little.p

I used to use a spring loaded telescopic rod to bleed brakes long ago...worked good. Now days mostly use a steel pressure tank bleeder..or a Vacula bleeder.