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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. I have never seen a factory flathead oil pump with a drilled oiling hole. I just looked at a bunch of cores too...none have an oiling hole. Odd to see one...not sure to any advantage unless roundy round racing.?
  2. Oh oh....I see a oiling hole!?
  3. MoPar # 1316733 is the solenoid part #. I'd skip MoPar Mall.
  4. I always have kept 25' rolls of all sizes of brake/fuel line on hand. Never have had an issue getting it at the local "good" NAPA. I will talk to them next time in about this issue mentioned.
  5. There is no oiling hole on these pumps. Those drive gears are retained by either a roll pin or a solid pin. That's it. Those gears are also pressed on. Don't attempt ro remove them unless you have the proper tooling to remove the gear...chipset teeth are the result of improper removal.
  6. 1953 was really the end of the Dodge Gyro-Matic transmission cars and trucks AFAIK.
  7. Drive the dowel pins in...that's been my go to on stuck FD engines. Std clutch probably work too.
  8. Use a stick to hold the clutch pedal down...done it many times....
  9. 5 stud X 8" circle is your standard bolt pattern on 1-1/2 to 2 ton older Dodge trucks.
  10. Possibly the oil pu float limit tangs are bent letting the float rise too high.... To Test.....add an extra quart or too of oil. Imediately normal 40+ lbs of oil pressure should show.
  11. You need that....drive it first to be sure you like it though.
  12. The upper chrome trim is inserted into the windshield rubber complete with the glass .....then installed to the body opening.
  13. Same bolt pattern.
  14. Those don't come up often....first set I've seen in a couple years... Wish you had the 1946-48 Chrysler front glass park lamp lenses!
  15. I don't fully understand the "C" series truck number and letter codes. For parts I have usuallu traveled to estern Washington 35 years ago... That's where I was always able to find parts for my big trucks as that's where they were mostly used.
  16. I am going (maybe) to only have the spring and clip for the "R" series truck model.. 1390877 spring and retainer # 1191826....They probably are smaller in size than the early 1192603/1192049 spring and retainer. The 1955 "T" axle I have is an air brake axle....completely different brake shoe set up.... And yes I'm thinking your broken "C" style spring clip is the #1501399. Four of them used on the B3/4 series "T" trucks... "earlier Ts used 1192603/1192049 as coil spring...and retainer?"........yes...looks to be the case from your parts sheet.
  17. All I know is your "C" style retainer clip is used on all the 1953 and later "T" series and some other heavy tonnage models...K,R,T,V,Y and later years 700,800 and 900 Dodge trucks according to the parts books. That 112055 is not a number in any DT parts books....not sure what that is...
  18. That peg on your stromberg carb is the iron core that the dashpot/anti-stall solenoid is mounted on. Pics of the solenoid coil....
  19. Here are pictures on the BXVES-3 Stromberg on a 52 Coronet engine. I posted these on this site back in 2013! Middle pic shows the round dash pot/anti-stall solenoid with the two bullet terminal wires connected to it.
  20. That 1953 DPH brake spring/ clip part # 1501399 is shown in these C and K series part book pages. I cannot find anywhere a picture of your style spring clip. I google searched timken dph brake and found the guy and Ward Lafrance fire truck I sold the early style springs and retainer clip to back in 2012 on this site! Time flies....
  21. Take the pump apart..look at or rotor wear/scoring, cover wear. Lube it up install cover same orientation as was. Really should replace quad O-ring...but try it out. Easy enough to see what it can do.
  22. I will have to take the other drum off the hydraulic axle...but it is difficult to access and currently cold snowy weather here...I will look and do it. It's in very tight quarters.
  23. The original 1951/52 Dodge D42 cars all used studs... Dodge cars for several years used only studs on their drum/hub assemblies. MoPar OE Part# Rt...687901 L... 687902
  24. .014" is for when checking valve timing on the S11. .008"/.010" is the correct hot spec for the intake and exhaust valves. .002" is generally the accepted amount to add when adjusting the MoPar flat head valves when the engine is cold. Say like right after a valve job. I would re-check them though @ .008"/.010" after the engine is hot ..running or not.
  25. I have only replaced one flathead oil pump with a new one once...just because years ago. (70's) I have always taken them apart and measured the clearances/ checked for any scoring etc. on my flathead rebuilds...oil pressure always has been cold 45-50...hot high rpm 45...hot idle 30-40. Engine rebuilds are complete with all measurements taken after machine shop work to double check and extreme cleanliness a must. Modern engines always have done new pumps. No new flathead pumps for me unless engine had a catastrofic bearing or piston failure. Jmo.
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