Dodgeb4ya

I'm sure the Chrysler Data book up thru 1947 is correct ans aplicable for the 1948 cars too. Not too many changes for the 1946-48 cars.

Yes as Marc said it is a 1946-47 Chrysler Salesman's Data Book. A rare book especially for the C38/C39 Chryslers. I don't think a 1948 Chrysler data book was produced. I have never been able to find one in over 35 years.

Front center 1946-48 Chrysler bumper guards were an additional cost accessory item except on the top of the line car models... A hard to find good one if needed now days.

Check it cold. Pressure builds up in the FD coupling when hot. Not a good idea to check it hot?

Your FD will not dump on you...you don't need a bolt in the glove box. If it's leaking though you do have a problem that needs fixing...new seal and maybe a bellows. FD couplings in the 1946-8 cars are pretty darn reliable. I have had my 48 Chrysler and others for over 40 years with no FD issues at all.

Pushing down the starter pedal is easier than the clutch pedal... Try a Chevy or GMC stomp pedal of the same era...much harder to operate than the Dodge. I'm fortunate I can still push the stomp starter pedal on my 413 six in my DT easy enough.

Do you have the optional fresh air package too? If so that makes access to lube/ free up the cowl vent lid pivot points even more difficult. Removing the fresh air housing with dual heaters is a very involved job. If that's what you have.

Evidently SFE fuses are still available...

What the M-5 transmission KD relay looks like inside ... One other thing... there is a short card board like insulator tube stuffed down inside the relay fuse holder... with out it the fuse will burn out immediately. The fuse is a 1-7/16" SFE 30....30 amp fuse.

I have mostly used Permatex brushable or paste type #2 non drying gasket sealer on the paper gaskets. This on all the older car and truck stuff. New cars and trucks...what the manufacturer or gasket supplier calls for.

The trans relay fuse is a SFE30...a 30 amp fuse ..It's right about 1-3/8" long. Note...That 1948 Chrysler M-5 transmission really doesn't even need any 6V electrical power just to be able to upshift .... It the transmission has enough oil in it and even with out any of the wiring hooked up it should imediately upshift when letting off the gas. But also know the transmission cannot downshift until at a dead stop without 6V control...45lbs oil pressure needs to bleed off at a dead stop. The 1946-48 M-5 transmissions need the 6V electrical wiring and controls only to tell it when to and when not to upshift or downshift. The electrical system for this M-5 transmission only controls oil pressure flow to the upshift piston. Just some excess info for you!?

Front end of Input shaft bearing as mentioned.

I too have not had to ream the guides...I use a dial indicator and the .341" thru .344" guide pilots when checking driven or old guides. Would never cut it on modern day valve job work...very critical tolerances and practices.

Both air and manual professional quality guide drivers are available. A slight angle relief is cut into the driver to prevent mushrooming of the guide when driving it. I have replaced the MoPar guides and Packard guides using a manual driver..(better control) and heavy weight hammer. I Line the tappet chamber with a towel after all the springs and valves are out. This to keep the broken off guide ends from falling into the tappet chamber pockets etc. Pount them down, break the lower part of the guide off as the guide gets close to the tappet. I use a heavy steel drift. They snap right off. Drive the new guides in orientated properly...exh/intake and to the exact depth. You need to hold the driver firmly and accurate, be able to use a heavy 2 lb hammer and swing it straight and solid to hit the guide driver. That's how they did it all the time back in the old days doing flathead valve job work..right in the car. I prefer the machine shop to do that job always with the engine out.

The Flat head MoPar six bolt damper will only bolt on one way.

Another version of the Trubrake grinder is the "Brake DokTor" Looks very similar. I used to use one years ago. The bench top machines are easier and quicker to use and get abrasives though not done much these days. I use ammco and star grinders still.

Some more of those hard to find 40's to early 50's Chrysler inner handles....some long sedans, some short (convert/ cpe rear 1/4) ect... The full chrome 1949-53 handles had two different assembly types. The 1942 handles came in different colors and patterns. Really nice and tight 1942-48 window handles probably worth $250.00 a piece if you can find some.?

You are smart to use your finger and thumb to save all wear and tear on those lavalier handles. That's how I have saved mine for the last 40 years on my T&C. I have collected several styles of those 1942-1954 Chrysler inner floppy handles. I'm covered for the rest of my life if one wears out.

You have to have all of them in place...yes the last one can be tough to snap down into place. Some times sliding it sideways into place works. Other times wedging it into place ising a wooden or brass copper round drift. It should snap down into place properly. Removing that snap ring is tough...I leave them alone.

That it is...maybe it's a anti-cavitation by pass.

Now that the housing is off it looks like someone has brazed that lower curved part on the T-stat housing.... Get a good thermostat housing. A common part.

Agriculture....

The lower thermostat housing looks AG or industrial? You don't want or need it...replace it with the factory thermostat housing and a new correct thermostat.

Have you tried adding some Tamsulosin in your gas?

You want a picture of a Chrysler 1946-50 straight 8 distributor?