Dodgeb4ya

Check that the shoe linings fits each drum accurately at toe and heel (.006") for imediate extra firm brake feel and high pedal height......pic shows no clearance at toe and hell...wide incorrect gap in middle of lining possibly causing brake squeal or and toe/heel high temp glazing. If shoe fit is poor this can result in longer wear in, weak brakes and poor pedal feel performance and pedal height.

Wow Troy Built 382cc's sure are reasonably priced now days!

Don't take that hard to find u-joint out until you have found the problem. Don't attempt to remove it unless you know the proper way. Do not use heat to remove these joints.

Very difficult and slow to fill 3/8" coupling filler hole..

All the old time mechanics who used to install those leather boots are probably long gone and way up in the sky..? Martha Stewart or sewing with Nancy could answer the question I bet.

Better not just pour any type fluid in that big hole. Get a mop if you do.

Chrome car beads are always up....Steele and others show beads up...but what ever you like do it.

One of the U-joint caps was not 100% fully seated into the trans flange or wrong U-joint.

That wobbly U-joint is probably assembled wrong...not seated etc.

To replace all four bearing halves you will have to remove the torque shaft completely to clean and inspect all linkage parts. This also means backing off the big over spring turn buckle to be able to back off and remove that strong spring. Measure/ mark that turn buckle so you can get it back exactly where it was in over all length when re-assembling the over center spring and linkage. Otherwise you need to re-adjust the over center spring tension by down loading the spring tool template off this site.. Take pictures before taking the linkage all apart. I'm sure you will have more questions. You will remove all the parts shown above except for the curved ball bracket that mounts to the frame.

Two bearing halves on each side of torque shaft. Total of four.

Some 1946-48 pics.... The two bearing halves on the engine side of torque shaft are not retained by a snap ring unlike the other side shown.

***Use the Carter part # to find new ones.) ***Get your favorite machinist to make one or more. ***Search for good tight used bases and throttle shaft assemblies. Last option is probsbly the easiest and best answer. Gas will sweat out around even a good tight throttle shaft when a carb has excessive fuel flooding the throttle plate when shut off.

I saw the gasket hanging there. You shouldn't have to go crazy tight if all the parts are clean/aligned and right.

I'd use the old factory type one. Yes a proper sized head pipe gasket must be used. I always use a semi course file to be absolutely sure there is no heavy rust or gasket material on both the manifold flange and the header pipe flange. The header pipe flanges cannot be warped at all and must bt up evey tight to the manifold fully. It will not leak. The Burnbaum pipe....naw... A lower quality exhaust header pipe. That ring is used to crush the header gasket. Narrow enough to possibly sit the gasket...have seen that on other pipes mike that on a Ford!?

Never have run into that....I'd get the right bearings.

Your header pipe probably does not extend up through the header flange at least a 1/2" like the original factory header pipe.The extension of the pipe goes up into the exhaust manifold to help prevent gasket blow out and exhaust leakage. Also possibly the header flange is not flat and bent up at each flange bolt.

There shouldn't be any smoke coming out of the manifold to header pipe gasket joint. End of the tail pipe yes.......... Hopefully it will quit smoking after a 100 miles of drive it like you stole it to break the rings ....just don't miss a shift with that Tip-Toe transmission.

No it's too rusty...all the parts will need to be replaced because of pitting including the mainshaft. Find another one.

Oxy/Acet "Blue Tip" boy here too... Sometimes using wax.

#6 will be firing at TDC ( both valves fully closed) when the timing dots are aligned directly opposing each other. NOT #1 cylinder.

In the solenoid starter picture... The "Solenoid Switch"arrow points to the grounding inner stud...that doesn't mean that stud is the starter switch terminal. The arrow should have generally just been pointing to the solenoid box cover. Indicating here is the solenoid switch assembly. They should not have reversed the grounding and starter switch terminals. Silly boys.

Your wires 29 and 27 in the wiring schematic are correct. The starter and solenoid picture you posted is correct too for 1946-48 DeSoto too.

If it doesn't work ..the solenoid has been electrically wired different internally. Do what ya gotta do....connect so it cranks like Sam said..

The way to correctly hot wire your starter to work... ***Upper small left stud jumper to block (ground). Normally connects to the "ARM" stud on the generator. ***Upper right outer small stud connects to starter button or your starter remote button. This is the way I have cranked over many many 1941 -50 Chrysler and DeSoto's. All those square box solenoids are wired and operate the same...all of them....yes all.