Dodgeb4ya

Shouldn't weld on the frame flanges. They will start cracking.

Bernbaum and others are selling a modern industrial fluid drive coupling reseal kit...eliminates the graphite seal ring...substitutes a hardened steel seal ring as used in dozer rollers and misc. heavy equipment. Also a sleeve instead of the copper bellows seal. Similar design to late the 1950 and later fluid drive couplings used in MoPar cars. Should work fine. The kit will not be easy to install unless someone has experience and good tooling. If the FD inner hub sealing surface is damaged (pitted, worn) the re-seal kit won't fix the leak. Then the FD coupling will have to be replaced or cut open for maching work and a front bearing.$$$$ Balancing of cut open and re-welded FD's can be a huge vibration problem. Sadly there are not many shops left who do this repair job with 100% compentence. But first...be 100% sure the FD coupling is leaking between the clutch driven plate and the coupling housing...not the rear main seal. Usually these couplngs start leaking because of a cracked carbon seal ring and or crack in the copper bellows.

218 ci...Dropped forged,high carbon steel...7 counter weights 71-1/2 lbs. Rods are forged too... 230 ci. Same but crank 75-1/2 lbs.

The motor or cables are most likely the issue. Cables...good luck.

The aluminum style oil filters started in 1949 on the Chrysler cars. I have seen them on truck and industrial engines too. Boy those pictures look cold! Spring is here...the warm up is starting...

MoPar 1138119 is the part number for the two square profile round O-Rings. I have used typical round rings too with careful measuring to be sure of proper compression and filling the recess. Not too little and not too much. Quad rings would be a probably better choice if no factory ring seals can be located. Gasket should be fine too... I've never seen one though on the 251/265 engines though.

You install the arm one slot wrong...you'll figure it out pretty quick🤣

It's splined .... can go on in four different positions. There are four wide machined indexing slots.

Oh oh! It won't be $10,000..

Run it....it will be fine..the crack ..probably since the block was cast.

I see a lot of loose carbon by the exhaust valve on #3... Carbon could be stuck on the valve seat/face.

# 3 and 4 cylinder exhaust ports are rusty... As mentioned compression test required ...all cylinder readings need to be close in psi and preferably top out 90-100 lbs or even better if higher. These engines can even run smooth if all cylinders are at 70lbs! Won't have full horse power as new though. Possibly some valves not seating 100% because of rust and or burnt valve and seats. On old tired engines it's common to see top compression rings broken too.

A picture of that ground wire in a 1951 4 tonner..using a ring eyelet terminal as original..fastened with a phillips head screw. The hot wire and ground are located the same in two of my other trucks as from new. No J-clip being used.

That's such a great original truck! Always ready to work too..

The extended lip faces the crank gear. If there is a spring in the seal that spring and open part of seal should always face the oil side of crankcase/ crank gear. Make sure the timing cover is not damaged/bent from other seal install or removals in the past. Properly support the T-cover when installing the new seal. Lube the seal lip and apply a small amount of sealer on the OD of seal before installing seal. Use the proper diameter driver to install slowly and carefully.