Dodgeb4ya

I see a lot of loose carbon by the exhaust valve on #3... Carbon could be stuck on the valve seat/face.

# 3 and 4 cylinder exhaust ports are rusty... As mentioned compression test required ...all cylinder readings need to be close in psi and preferably top out 90-100 lbs or even better if higher. These engines can even run smooth if all cylinders are at 70lbs! Won't have full horse power as new though. Possibly some valves not seating 100% because of rust and or burnt valve and seats. On old tired engines it's common to see top compression rings broken too.

A picture of that ground wire in a 1951 4 tonner..using a ring eyelet terminal as original..fastened with a phillips head screw. The hot wire and ground are located the same in two of my other trucks as from new. No J-clip being used.

That's such a great original truck! Always ready to work too..

The extended lip faces the crank gear. If there is a spring in the seal that spring and open part of seal should always face the oil side of crankcase/ crank gear. Make sure the timing cover is not damaged/bent from other seal install or removals in the past. Properly support the T-cover when installing the new seal. Lube the seal lip and apply a small amount of sealer on the OD of seal before installing seal. Use the proper diameter driver to install slowly and carefully.

Get the car off the stands and drive it before thinking something is wrong because it won't go into OD with the handle pushed in. It's hard sometimes to get into OD on jack stands as you have to quickly rev the engine in 3rd and let off really quick to attempt a OD engagement. Might or might not go into OD. The control pawl won't engage into the sun gear easily when up on the stands. Get the car out on the road for a proper trans test.

I put a R10 in a 1952 panel back in the early 80's. Worked wonderful. Drove it all over Washington state. It was tedious..lots of difficult linkage fab, driveshaft, e-brake work. Trans to bell housing problems. A tough one to do but can be done. I don't remember all of it sorry to say.

Passenger had a sore head...

Yep.....people love to climb all over Dodge trucks.. I have a Dodge truck service bulletin on the 2-3/4 to 3-1/2 ton trucks that do have interference of the hood to overflow tube.

This^^^^^^^^! Possibly cam lobe severely worn , doubt it or back to pump/arm.

That long screw to drill out..

You can slip the clutch when accelerating from a dead stop...I do it at times with out just dumping the clutch. You can accelerate from a dead stop faster when needed by properly slipping the clutch. The FD clutch discs are not that delicate is all I'm saying.

I've never been able to wear the clutches out in my 1948/50 Chryslers over 40+ years slipping the clutches in them.

You really want that 25" "Spitfire" Chrysler engine in the if it's the 1952-54 Chrysler 265 ci. engine. Pull the 7/16" hex plug over cyl. #6 to check for a piston stroke of 4-3/4". Just drop a 12" length of straight coat hanger wire down the plug hole, rotate the crank 360 degree's , measure the movement of the wire. This is the only positive way to know which ci. engine your checking out for sure. C52/C53/C54-XXXXX.....is generally the 265 engine #. The 265's have more than enough power to move a P15 along. A difficult engine to find these days. The DeSoto and Chrysler 236/251's are common and don't match up in power to the 265 engine. But even they are a big improvement to the 218/230 23" engine. Don Coatney's P15 has the later DeSoto 251 engine in it.

Exactly...