Dodgeb4ya

The above pic with two transmissions shown are R7's. No parts interchange with a R10. R7's use a ahort silenoid, R10's a longer solenoid. R10's also have a governor on the passenger side of the trans. R7's OD's are engaged by a clutch core centrifical engagement design...no external governor.

Those are R7 solenoids...wont work on a R10.

Quick firm wedge em in... Don't be a pussy doing this technique!😛

The OD brake drums are the same as 1949-52 short wheel base cars. Use the e- brake assembly off one of those. Regular 3 speeds use a e-braje drum offset towards the front of the car.

An awl is quick and easy. Thread it thru the hook of the spring....other pointed end just in the shoe hole-wedge the hook end to the hole...done.

Take it to an exhaust shop. Heve them make a new header pipe with a new two bolt flange. The header pipe is to extend through the flange about a 1/2" up into the counterbore in the exhaust manifold. If this is not done....sooner or later you will have a header pipe to manifold gasket leak. I have seen this problem many times on low quality replacement thin flange header pipes with no extension thru the flange. Chrysler went the extra mile in good engineering to design the extention of the pipe thru thenflange to garantee never a header pipe to manifold leak.

As mentioned above plus these items are possibilities on a high mileage trans...especially the stubby short 3 speeds **Loose e-brake drum and hub nut.. **Loose rear trans bearing retainer **Weak shift cover detent springs **Worn input shaft bearing and or drive pinion clutch teeth **Excessive end play in pinion shaft, second gear

Several pumps were used on flatheads...Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto and Chrysler... And also the trucks. Here is the 1957-58 DT parts book fuel pump # 1818915 listed for...1/2 thru 600 series trucks. I have an old core of said pump showing a stamped # on the flange...

Have done them endless times hot....short regular 7/16" and 1/2" wrenches...a blister or two. Life of a hard ass mechanic...get er' done...on to the next.

Wow! All I can say.

If sitting for long periods of time....Crank the engine over a couple of times for 10-15 seconds. Leave to do something else for 10 minutes...come back, pump the gas pedal four or five times- start the engine. Has worked for me for years with my MoPar flatheads.

I have had many of those NP 420 transmissions in trucks I've owned. They are pretty much bullet proof. Maybe some new gaskets and a rear output shaft seal. Gaskets might be hard to find. I would not do anything more to it unless you had noise or grinding when shifting.

This is OE Stromberg KD bullet connector special wire clip..

Informative and nice clean work!👍

I have never needed a pcv on my old MoPars I've owned most for over 40 years. I change my oil in them yearly. I understand how they work and what they do. They are a good crankcase negative vent system. Each to his own.