48mirage

If I remember right these are a square cross section o-ring. They came in a couple of different sizes depending on the year. I think McMaster Carr may have them. What I did with mine when leaking was pulled the o-ring slobbed some hylomar on the ring and then put a real thin coat of blue RTV on the flange outside the diamater of the o-ring. Hasn't leaked there for a couple of years.

See this post: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showpost.php?p=291182&postcount=4

I've got a holley 94 that was put on a 56 Ford running a 272 v8 pretty easy setup. You might also look into a 2 barrel carb for the slant 6 motors. I'm thinking that there was one with a 2 barrel. You might want to look up the 1977-1983 Super Six.

Bob is probably right. Pull the drivers side rear wheel and take a wire brush to the frame forward of the axle and see if that engine number doesn't show up.

Change the fluid. There is a plug in the side of the fluid drive unit and it can be done with out removing the unit. It takes almost 2 gallons of fluid to refill. If you're car came original with the fluid drive you will have a dashpot on the carb. If it is a Stromberg it is internal to the carb but can be identified if you have any literature on the carb. And yes the fluid drive unit will drag down your engine idle when you have the car in gear with the clutch out and the brake on. That is normal for me.

I had the exact same truck new. Underpowered.

It looks a lot like the Dymaxion car pushed by R. Buckminister Fuller. The steering was in the tricycle wheel in the rear which made it real manuverable but maybe a little unsteady at speed.

The stuff is mostly methanol.

http://koolcars.us/catalog.html

I feed the song birds through the winter here also. My wife finally discovered I had an alterior motive. I have a pair of kestrels that have taken up residence in the area and I keep the songbirds fat for the kestrel table.

http://www.dodgecoronet.com/forum/showthread.php?16834-Disc-Brakes-on-First-Gen-Coronet

I've got some data from Howards Racing Cams for our 6 cylinders from back in the day. First I know nothing of these cams how they worked or anything other than the information on the sheet. 375 Grind Timing: intake 18-43, exhaust 53-10, lift for both valves .375, clearance: intake: .010, esxhaust .013 It was listed as Full race cam to be used primarily for street use or jalpy racing. 410 Grind Timing: intake 23-43, exhust 58 or 56-18, lift for both valves .410, clearance: intake .010, exhaust .013. It was listed as full race cam for hard top and sprtsman track racing. Can be used as a full race street cam. The pricing was for the Cam only with exchange $50.00

I think I've got some Gabriel air shocks on the rear of my '49 Coronet.

Naval Jelly is the most common form of the phosphoric acid for addressing rust.

Only the Gyromatic transmission had the switches on the carb.

Let us know what you find to replace 10-08-3. It is kind of a non standard size (actually a couple of different over the years) being a square oring. When my D30 was leaking there I pulled the pump cover, put hylomar on the gasket and a thin layer of blue rtv on the housing outside of the oring. That worked but I would like to fix it right.

A mild phosphoric acid will stop the rusting. It turns the iron oxide to ferric phosphate, it's a kind of pickling process.

I used a Holley 94 model 2110 2 barrell from a '56 Ford Mainline or Custom with an automatic. I also dropped the jets down a couple of sizes. I went this way to have the dampner effect for the fluid drive on my '49 D30. I was able to use the same linkage by turning the carb 90 degrees on the adaptor and shortening one rod on the linkage by screwing it in a little bit. Others have used a Lokar cable to replace the hard linkage. http://s262.photobucket.com/albums/ii86/jacobsheir/Toys/?action=view&current=Holley94.jpg I have gone to a larger air cleanter since this pic. To take advantage of the heat choke tube I used an exhaust manifold from a '54 Plymouth, but it wouldn't be too hard to come up with a method of using this automatic choke for an earlier model.

Another element that can contribute to that first hard cold start with the winter change is the gasoline. When I worked for Texaco in the winter time we would blend a little extra butane with the gasoline to increase the vapor pressure for the cold winter. I don't think this would be enough to prevent a start but it would contribute to a hard start, that is why I don't mind giving an engine a 2 second shot of ether on a cold morning if she doesn't want to go on her own.

I don't know what you would gain by using a more expensive synthetic oil. The dino oils of today are light years ahead of what was out there when our cars were new. The trick with any oil is keeping it cleaned and changed often. Since I put on the PCV I've noticed that my oil stays clearer longer and I run wallyworld 20w-50 year round, just changing the oil and filter every 3,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. In our old harleys the synthetics seem to find more places to leak from. But considering the old adage if your harley isn't leaking it's out of oil, the argument may be mute.

The part number listed is in the format for '42 and earlier. My resources came up dry.

Does this look like what it says it is? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1950s-Dodge-DeSoto-Floor-Shifter-Great-Condition-Rat-Rod-Hot-Rod-Bomb-/180783072208?hash=item2a1782c3d0&item=180783072208&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

I don't think domes will do you any good in a flathead. Shaving your head to bump the compression is fairly easily done. Original pistons are still available but I do remember somewhere that custom pistons were also available. I'm not sure what would be gained.

Just to through my voice in this thing. My '49 D30 has been running wallyworld's 20W50 motor oil since I got it 6 years ago. She has 84,000 on her and I put 30,000 of them on myself. I did pull the pan and the valve covers and cleaned her up. I have about 20 psi of oil pressure at a warm idle and 45 to 50 doing hiway speeds. I live in Kansas so we have all the extremes from 0 degrees to better than a hundred and the same oil works both ends. I would not overthink this oil question and I wouldn't spend a lot of money on a synthetic. Keep your oil changed regularly and properly tuned and these rides will serve you well. When I do get around to doing a rebuild I will make sure that I have a zddp additive for the cam break-in.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=14203 Don't just refill it. Do it right and drain the old, it could be 60 years old, and refill with new oil.