48mirage

Short answer is no. Your Wayfarer is a shorter frame and will require a door from a '49 or '50 Wayfarer.

Vertical is the right position. Normally the handle points down. I reversed mine so the handle points up and you push the handle to open the door.

I've seen that same generator/powersteering pump on an early DeSoto.

on my '49 Coronet all of the original lenses are plastic. I have bought aftermarket brake and parking light lenses that are glass.

Heat the bolt or stud up with a propane torch or other soft flame and apply wax. The wax will run into the crevacis as long as the bolt holds heat. This will be a way to lubricate the threads.

Try this http://koolcars.us/catalog.html

The pic is small but I see 2 rib bumpers. That is typical of '49 and '50.

I had a number of holes in my duct work. That asphalt coated paper didn't have a lot of strength. What I did was to pull the duct work cleaned it up (brushed it off with a wire brush) and then fiberglassed the duct. I did 2 sides at a time as had it done in a couple of days. Sanded off the rough edges and spray painted it black. That was nearly 10 years a go and it still looks good. I did have to replace the fan and found one that fit with minor modifications only problem was it was 12 volt. I worked around that since I am running dual voltage (6 volt and 12 volt negative ground).

Ballpark $200.00, do it yourself probably less than $100.00. This is assuming that the rest of the car is already set up for 12 volt.

1963 Rambler Cross Country Wagon - Nash seats, bed from dash to tailgate. 1962 Chevrolet Biscayne 1967 Mercury Cougar - my first pony car. 1970 Dodge Challenger SE 1970 Dodge Challenger - yes, I owned 2 at one time. 1963 1/2 Ford Galaxie 500 - would glide down the highway. 1987 Dodge Dakota - What a dumpy little truck. 1992 Ford Explorer 1995 Ford Explorer 1967 Dodge Pickup Low geared and would stop the rotation of the earth if I could only get good traction. 1988 Oldsmobile Good passing gear when the secondaries opened up 1991 Ford Ranger - I made it into a flatbed. Worked well on our little farm. 2001 Nissan Frontier XE 4 door truck - good little truck 1948 Harley Davidson solo rider 1949 Dodge Coronet - still a daily driver 1983 Harley Davidson FLHTC w/sidecar - when the wife and grandkids want to go. 2009 Dodge Ram TRX 4 door cab with flex fuel. Good power, good economy, still driving it, on the 3rd set of tires.

www.carburetor-parts.com

My local Napa had it and can order more.

DO NOT use a Hypoid gear oil. It will be marked GL-5. The additives package will cause you problems. I think what you are looking for is a GL-1(?).

I am guessing that the turbo described came from the twin turbo T-bird 4 cylinder engine of '83. Even if it is from the later V6 motor these were higher reving motors and full boost doesn't come into play until you get to the higher rev's, much higher than our flatties are designed for. I would like to see one put into service and the numnbers that go with it.

How about a turbo setup for your 230? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-230-6-cyl-flathead-turbo-system-Power-Wagon-/321108710580?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1950%7CMake%3ADodge&hash=item4ac39214b4&vxp=mtr#ht_102wt_1130 Somethimes you just can't get enough.

I had a manifold milled from an aluminum block at a local shop. I took the manifold gasket from my flathead and the manifold gasket from a Holley 94 and showed them a pic of an adaptor similar to that like vintage speed sells. http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?Parta~PartSort~A0~cadegdha~~~~A10~A1 Cost $40.00. Then I put a holley 94 (2110 EGC6) with the automatic choke and dashpot for my fluid drive manual 3 speed transmission. Turned the carb 90 degrees clockwise and only had to adjust one of the accelerator rods to get it to work. This carb came from a 56 ford with a 272 v-8 and automatic transmission. There are plenty of other Holley 94's configured a little differently eliminating the dashpot and using a manual choke. There have been some questions about the vacuum advance on the earlier model 94's used by ford and the function of the loadamatic distributor and the spark advance module on the Hollye 94. I've left the spark advance device on the carb and plugged it both and cannot find a difference in performance. I have not done a detailed measurement at differennt rpm's and load but I have no performance problems currently and after changing the plugs after a year in place I found them reading correctly.

The Gyromatic transmission needs 10w oil. The fluid drive is not a transmission but a form of torque converter that requires iso32 hydraulic oil and the standard 3 speed transmission behind it uses gear oil. If and only if he has the M-6 transmission should he be looking at 10w oil.

Added a pressure regulator today, set it at 2 1/2 lbs. Didn't help the idle but also didn't have the flooding problem I ran into yesterday. I'm also sure that the lower pressure will reduce the seeping problem I had in the past. Idle jets are not available in multiple sizes but since I have some spare parts I might try to size one, solder and redrill with a pin drill. Not a priority so I think I'll leave it as it is until weather is better and time is available.

My engine has 90k miles on it. Oil fouling because of the rings prevents a good read of the plugs. I'm thinking my focus should be on the idle jets. I want to slow down the idle a little but there is no more adjustment left in the idle screw. I think it is just a little high. When I have a load on the engine like with the car in gear and holding the brake so the engine is working against the fluiddrive it sounds like an automatic car in gear held with the brake.

Marty and Adams, You guys were right. I put the larger jets in and the trouble went away. Adams, I tried to address the difference in displacement differently but I see my mistake now. I was thinking of the gas and air flow as a continuous process, but your explanation made me realize that the carb was processing fuel in batch mode. Thanks guys. Jim

'49 Dodge Coronet 230 ci with fluid drive and 3 speed. For several years I have been running a holley 94 from a '56 ford. This carb was originally spec'ed for the 272 V8 with automatic. Because my original carb was starting to show some miles I replaced it with a like carb. The only change was to lower the jet size from a 52 to a 49. The car idles well and accelerates well but wants to buck when I try to hold a steady speed. Is this because of the smaller jets?

It shoujd serve you well and will take the load off of your headlight switch. You will want to run the feeds from your dimmer switch to activate the relays and your supply straight from your battery will supply the headlights.

Can't say for sure, but this is good reading. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/fluidrive.html

I often use RockAuto as a research tool to find makers and part numbers. Some times I find that they will try to fill an order from multiple wharehouses and when they do the shipping charges rise pretty fast. When that happens I will use someone like Amazon to price some items and have found on a couple of occasions that if it is an order with multiple items I can save a little $ by splitting the order between RockAuto and Amazon. Saved my about $20.00 when I did a disc brake conversion.

This is probably not the problem but I read in the lastest newsletter from RockAuto under the Blunders column about a fellow that was having a problem with one of the rear brakes locking up and after several attempts gave up on it. It wasn't until the tech, where he got his 3rd inspection sticker, showed him that the shoes on that brake had been installed wrong. The leading shoe was in the trailing position and vice versa.