48mirage

There used to be a thread exactly about replacing the 6 volt fan motor with a 12. I used it and saved it in my favorites but it is not there anymore. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=25353&highlight=napa+motor For my other 6 volt needs I use this: http://koolcars.us/catalog.html I would like to find a direct replacement for my defroster fan or windshield wiper motor. If I try to use both with the voltage reducer I will blow the fuse protecting the reducer or burn up the reducer (don't ask me how I know). The culprit is the starting amps to run both of these at one time.

Looks like a Tattersfield.

Lokar http://lokar.com/product-pgs/throttlecables-kickdowns/tc-kd-main.html

At one time I had a latching relay in my ground cable. It looked like a starting solenoid but was activated by a momentary switch. When you hit the switch it would latch in the new position and stay there until you hit the momentary switch again.

Is this them? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PIO-PG-362-25/

The difference will be in the spark at the plugs. With the coil wired backwards the ground electrode will deteriorate sooner.

That front grill says '49 also. I haven't seen many '49 Business Coups, I am curious about the taillight used on them. The '49 Coronet I drive was a 1 year only design.

"Is this correct?" Yes

I see that mopar axle width chart all of the time. But what is still missing is the width's for the 1949 to 1959 years.

If you have the head off, spray a lubricant like PB Blaster in the bolt holes that reach the back of the water tube. Allow time for it to soak. You can even make your own concoction, I like a 50/50 mix of acetone and AT fluid. Give it time and then use a bent rod in a slide hammer to work it out. This job will not be quick or easy if it has been in there for a long time. When using the search function use the term "water distribution tube".

Fire out the exhaust is too rich. Has your float stuck on the carb?

I did exactly as you did several years ago, but found it a little troublesome. You will find that the alternator will have a small continuous draw on the batteries. I solved this by installing a latching relay that would open the battery circuit. You will also want to build a buss for the 2 separate voltages. Look at Blue Sea dual buss bars. They are built for the marine market but I found a simple one that worked for me. As time went on I found my 12 volt load continued to grow. Heater blower, starter, brake lights, headlights, modern radio. I still run a dual voltage system but I have gone to a 12 volt battery with a GM 10SI single wire alternator and I step down the voltage for the ignition and the remaining 6 volt system with a voltage reducer from www.koolcars.us./catalog.html . Even this system has it's limits at 20 amps. I put in a fuse ahead of the voltage reducer to keep from burning it up. I found that running the 6 volt defroster and the 6 volt wipers at the same time would overload the voltage reducer and burn it up. The fuse protects the voltage reducer now, I just have to make a decision which I need more, wipers or defroster. I don't think the operating loads are that high but both motors have a starting spike that creates the problem.

www.mcmastercarr.com/ go to raw materials, rubber, cords and then pick the one that serves you best.

I think this is what I used on my '49 Dodge. Stant 10070 oil filler cap.

I don't have the '48 info but I've got the piston clearances for the '49 to '52 230 cu in engines. I don't think they would be any different. They are .0015 - .002

The question asked and more than 1 answer hinted at can be found in the book, "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance". It's not so much about the car (or motorcycle) as it is being part of the machine.

Take a look at this: http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/index.htm You will want to review 023, 024, and 037.

I would be interested in someone fitting one of the Penstar V6 engines with the 8 speed automatic into one of our cars. The V6 is only 20 inches long but I haven't seen anything on its width. http://www.pentastars.com/engines/tech.php

Bob, For the engine you show with the external bypass you are looking for a 160 degree thermostat. You say a P15 with a 230. I'm pretty sure Plymouth didn't get the 230 until the P24. The thermostat on the right of the picture looks like it might be right and the one in the middle looks like what is in my '49 Dodge with a 230, but I also have the rubber donut like in 40desoto's pic.

Be careful when ordering several items from rockauto. Too often they ship from multiple wharehouses and after you pay multiple shipping charges the bargain is gone. When I redid my brakes I actually got better prices from Amazon.com and over $25.00 order came with free shipping.

http://s262.photobucket.com/user/jacobsheir/media/Toys/Holley94.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0#/user/jacobsheir/media/Toys/Holley94.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0&_suid=138861418944208067231007572972 '49 Coronet with 230 fluid drive and standard 3 speed transmission. I used a Holley 94 from a 56 Ford Mainline and 272 V8 with an automatic. I had an adaptor made at a local machinist for less than $30.00. I chose this carb because it had the dampner for the fluid drive and the heat tube choke that I could use with the '54 Plymouth exhaust manifold that I added the extra outlet to. If you are not dead set on separating the halves on the exhaust a second outlet can be added without welding on the cast iron. The carb is turned 90 degrees to align the stock accelerator linkage and a fuel pressure regulator was added to reduce the pressure at the float to 2 1/2 lbs. I dropped the jets a couple of sizes on the carb but I'm not sure that was necessary.

You have to look close but there is a casting date in the heads.

For the brakes and the rest of the things you will need to service this vehicle I would recommend a copy of the service manual. They are available as reprints and on CD. To supplement that the parts manual can also be useful. Here are a couple of links you might find useful. http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/index.htm http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=99

+1 on the fiberglass. On mine, the end at the radiator core was breaking down pretty bad. I took a piece of 2x4 and cut it down to the size of the heater core connection, wrapped it in saran wrap slipped it inside of the duct work and started to fiberglass. I had cleaned up the original as best I could with a wire brush and then only did 2 sides at a time. After it was completed I cleaned up the rough spots/ loose fiberglass with sandpaper and painted it flat black. The 2x4 slipped right out of the duct because the glass wouldn't stick to the saran wrap.

I have found 2 descriptions for the first part number listed. "Bezel" is correct and I have a source that describes the part name as: "FENDER EXTENSION MOULDING".