48mirage

I agree you should have a place close by that does starter rebuilds. I dropped one off in Joplin, Mo one morning and picked it up that afternoon. It was relatively cheap and I was only down a day.

Take a look at these VOLTAGE inverters. http://www.casmfg.com/Accessories.htm 5th item down. I used one of these in my '49 Dodge + ground when I added a 12 volt - ground radio. Since I've stared running a dual voltage system and no longer require this type of device. The listing you showed http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2577-Input-4-10V-Output-DC12V-3A-High-Current-Power-Module-Regulator-/350586474969?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51a09511d9 is a power regulator and requres the same polarity.

"But my favourite is when I ended up in the slammer in Europe somehwere, and everyone on my contact list got pinged to send bail money to a broker." I've seen that. Sent back an email to 'my friend', that I had talked to his wife and she said, "He can rot there." And then explained that she had invited me over for dinner and drinks.

I will sometimes get in a mood and play with these scammers. The first thing I do is open their email and open the properties tab to find out their ISP and then use http://whois.geektools.com/whois.php to find out where the email originated, Then give a long detailed account of how I will include shipping in the price but can only send this to the billing address so shipping it to the son in Ohio won't work. I will even turn the tables on him and say that I can only accept payment via Western Union. I feel we must play by the same rules as them.

To paraphrase LaPierre, "To take care of the problem of a bad man with a gun you need a good man with a gun."

Making the electrial connections I read that the motor drew 1 amp at no load. With the fan installed the load jumped to 4.88 amps. The initial current inrush was just over 11 amps so I used a 15 amp fuse. This seems to be working well using the original 2 speed switch without any excess heat.

My 6 volt motor failed. I went to Napa for the NAPA P#BK6551083. The Unimotor has been replaced with the Siemens PM332X 12v 04233, made in Mexico. The case bolts were slightly larger diameter on the new motor. I drilled out the holes in the motor shoe to 7/32. To connect the shoe I installed a #10 internal lock washer on each side of the shoe and secured it with a #10 brass nut. Make sure to check the orientation of the shoe to make sure the drain is down. The studs out of the motor are too long to allow proper mounting of shoe to fan shroud. I cut about 1/4" off the length of the motor case bolts. To prevent the mud dobbers from building in the motor I covered the condensate drain hole with a piece of hailscreen. I laid a small bead of RTV around the hole, placed the screen over it and secured it with a hose clamp until the RTV had cured. To instal the motor I removed the hose clamp and the motor clamp covered part of the screen. The motor is polarity sensitive but reversible. For negative ground the black wire is ground and the green wire is power. I run a dual voltage system so the 12 volt was not an issue for me. http://www.surpluscenter.com/CanceledItems.asp?Item=10-PM332&EDP=24705&imgover=&Description=12+VDC+2800+RPM+MOTOR+PM332X

If the car was towed while in gear then the power would have been transferred through the fluid drive to the engine. If this had been done in a low gear and a high speed that could have been a problem. As far as whether or not the car is in gear if the shifter is still in working condition you would place it in the normal position for neutral as any other manual column shift. For the M6, reverse is when you pull on the shifter and move it up. There is no "first" gear position. The low and high positions are all the way up and all the way down without pulling on the shifter. Neutral would be in the middle. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presto-Matic

I'm pretty sure it can be done but not comfortable. You will need some long wrenches to remove the bolts holding the crank to the fluid drive unit and a way to block and turn the flywheel while doing it. Also reaching the bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine block might be tight quarters. I haven't done it but it might be easier to unbolt the tranny from the bell housing and pull the engine, and bell housing with the fluid drive and clutch still in place. Transfer the bell housing clutch and fluid drive to the new motor and re install. You will need to do a clutch alignment and a new gasket to go between the transmission and the bell housing but it might mean less time underneath the car.

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/index.htm

The transmissiopn you are describing in your wagon is the gyromatic. A fluid drive is just the coupling between the engine and the clutch. It sounds like the "new" transmission may be just a simple 3 speed with fluid drive. The gyromatic transmission requires the wiring for the solenoid's and also interrupt fuel flow during the shifting. Do a search for gyromatic and you will learn quite a bit. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/m6.html

I havent looked into it much but the new v-6 like they use in the basic challenger is a newer design and If a salvageable drivetrain can be found it might be the easiest thing. From what I understand the new v-6 is just under 20" long and the exhaust manifold is incorporated into the heads that would seem to make things a little narrower. http://www.pentastars.com/engines/tech.php

If time still allows file a complaint with ebay that the seller refuses to allow a vehicle inspection. That should raise some red flags with them.

If this is the same Fletcher Group that does business in Joplin, MO the issues seem to be institutional to them.

You do not want to run that engine that far advanced. The effects are the same as suffering from preignition due to too low an octane gas. You are reaching maximum combustion chamber pressure before the piston reaches TDC. You in effect are working against the pressure until the piston reaches TDC then you are only able to run on a lower chamber pressure. This condition is hard on pistons, piston pins, rings and bearings.

For those near Oroville Ca. Here is an auction for all those things we don't need but would probably want some of. http://www.northstateauctions.com/auction/index/id/18/p/1 My first choice would be the '49 Dodge Panel Truck.

1963 Rambler Cross Country Station Wagon. This car had nash seats and you could make it into a bed from dashboard to tailgate. Slept 8.

My guess is it is like the oversized check. You refund the overage and then since he paid as commercial transaction he claims he didn't get the purchase and paypal pulls the full amount from the account tied to paypal.

I like to find out where a lot of these things come from. If you click on the "properties" of his email you can see the i.s.p. # from where it originated. I then put that number into the geek tools website to see where it actually comes from. http://www.geektools.com/whois.php When I find out his email originated from some land locked country or maybe a place like Somalia I'm satisfied he's a scumbag. I also like to play with these guys. Tell him that you don't do paypal because you don't want to pay taxes and that he must send you gold ingots. Better yet tell him I can go to his house and pick up the payment when he gets home. I'm always looking for an excuse to go see Uncle Jack (retired Kansas Bureau of Investigation) or one of my biker budies. If he's not comfortable meeting at his house we can meet in the parking lot of the Westboro Baptist Church. (A common gathering place for another kind of scumbag)

Probably no help but Charlie Price at Vintage Speed sells an oversize throttle rod for the 48 and 94 stromberg's and a reamer to size the original bushing.

Here is a summary of similar items from ebay http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_kw=Universal+Generator+to+Alternator+Conversion+Bracket&_id=230842387342

Here is an example. There will be others supplying the same kit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Generator-Alternator-Conversion-Bracket-/230842387342?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35bf474b8e

I'm thinking I saw something like that on a '53 DeSoto.

I was looking into this the other day. I figured out the Stant # was 10208, I'm sure NAPA has an equivalent but I can't seem to find the Balkamp #.

http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html