48mirage

Here is a link to an outfit that will sell you a modified alternator (delco Remy, GM 10si) or the kit to convert your own to 6 volt positive ground. At the bottom of the page are a couple of pictures and an explanation on how they accomplish this task. http://www.alternatorparts.com/6_volt_alternators_&_kits.htm

If I can't have my '50 Coronet then I must have all of these 1956 Chrysler 300B 1967 Mercury Cougar 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 1941 Lincoln Sedan. (would settle for the Cabriolet Convertible 1946 HD Knucklehead with sidecar

Lou, This is kind of dated but a '56 Coronet had the Stromberg WW3-124. I've looked around but haven't seen one yet. I've also read 1 place that this was the same carb used on a '55 D56. Jim

Bob, Figure a couple of hours or a little more. Drove back from the Tulsa fair a year ago on the ol' 66 just for a change of scenery. A lot of stops getting through Tulsa but a decent trip back to KS. OK also has the route pretty well marked. Jim

my parts book shows different numbers between the Plymouth and Dodge. If I read this thing right you can use any trunk lid from a '42 to '48 Plymouth 2 door or 4 door. If you have a Club Coupe again any trunk lid for a club coupe from '42 to '48.

This will make a good day trip for me and the wife. Will probably go down on Saturday taking Route 66. We live just north of the old route.

Knowing the old Coronet hadn't seen a lot of maintenance in the last couple of decades I thought I might drain the fluid drive and refill. Crawled underneath and scraped at 50+ years of crud until I had the housing pretty well cleaned up. Where I expected to see a bolt for a cover plate I did find a hole (most likey a drain hole) and no identifiable cover plate. The housing vent looked like maybe it would come off and that would give me access to the plug. No luck, no bolts. Upon close examination it appears that the vent cover is spot welded to the fluid coupling housing. Now, I might be able to access the plug through the vent opening but that could be a little messy and doesn't fully drain the coupling. I could roll the coupling on down to the drain hole after plug removal, but I'm afraid with all that fluid at once I'm looking at overwhelming the drain and the excess migrating to the clutch disc and contaminating it. Anybody got any ideas.

This truck/charachter is based on a guy in Riverton Kansas, about 20 minutes from here (wife went to school there). I'll see if I can find out.

Normspeed, Actually the scallops are an optical illusion all done with air brush. It even looks that way in life untill you get up close. Auto Artistry in Russell KS did the body work. The car has not been lowered the Lake pipes make it look like it sits lower. The wheels are 15" the tires are a little undersized P205 instead of the P225 that would have been equivalent to the original size. Since this photo was taken I have added air shocks to the rear and I feel that I need to stiffen up the front end some. Auto Artistry did do a good job on the paint inside. The color is actually an orange metallic with a flattening agent used to take the gloss out. The interior was painted a marbleized black. There are some 60's era graphics on back, a "Big Daddy" Rat Fink, a Von Dutch Flying Eyeball and a picture of a carhop in hot pants and a tube top. There are still a lot of little projects that need to be completed on this car but that is the kind of tinkering I love.

Merle, Looking at the Meyer converter, is he actually kicking up the positive side to @19.5 volts then using the vehicle + 6 volt ground to get a difference of 13.5 volts?

Bought a '49 coronet. I am working on the mechanical and electrical portions. I have an idea for modifying the electrics to keep the 6 volt positive ground functions and gain the advantages of 12volts spinning the starter and adding 12 volt accessories like a cd player. It involves installing a 12 volt positive ground alternator and setting up 2 6 volt batteries in series. I run the original 6 volt system from the negative post of the battery connected to ground. I hook up the negative post of the other battery to the starter solenoid. I can also use this post as my connection to the 12 volt accessories. I use the positive ground of the car as the power source for the cd player and use a switch to open the line to the negative post of the ground. Speakers have dedicated signal and ground wires back to cd player (no common grounds). I know this may seem like the long way around to do what I want but my reputation is to always do it a little differently. I am looking to see if there is any reason this won't work. I have a drawing of what I am proposing but couldn't figure out how to post it in any size that was readable but can email it if anybody has any questions. Thanks, Jim