sixbanger

I can put the shifter in any gear I want when the engine is off but when it is running it won't go into gear at all. It does not growl or anything it just won't go in gear. The fluid drive unit and gearbox are both full of fluid. One odd thing: when I could still drive the car it was hard to go into 2nd and 3rd but it hardly ever gave me trouble downshifting from 3rd to 2nd.

I have not checked anything else yet, I won't have time to work on it for a few days. I can post what I find then.

Before adjustments the pedal seemded like it moved about a inch until you could feel some resistance on the pedal. It was adjusted so there is no play now, but it was acting up before that. It started getting hard to shift some time ago. At first it was only a few times here and there but has slowly got worse.

Can anyone share some experience on the clutch or linkage on a '50 Dodge Coronet with a fluid drive transmission? I have corrected excessive play in the shift linkage "V" shaped bell crank and have greased all fittings related to the clutch pedal. I have also adjusted the clutch push rod that goes to the clutch fork at the bellhousing. Cannot get the car in gear 2nd or 3rd gear with clutch pedal fully depressed, my fear is the clutch/pressure plate has had it's last days. Just thought I'd see if anyone else has had this come up before I drop out the transmission and replace the clutch/pressure plate and throw-out bearing. Thanks in advance for your time.

I have a '50 Dodge fluid drive, it shifted smooth for some time but began to be difficult to shift. The worst is going from 2nd to 3rd, when you pull down to go into gear it stops moving (like its stuck) and won't go into 3rd. If you wiggle the shifter and cuss at it enough it will go into gear. All the moving parts I could see under the car have been lubed. Has anyone had this problem? Is it just that its binding up some place? I dont think the tranny is going out because it doesn't growl or pop out of gear. Any advice would be very helpfull.

The fluid was a little low in the torque converter of my 1950 dodge, is it save to use something like dexron in it or should a certain fluid be used?, thanks

I have a 50 dodge coronet, the bumpers on it are a bit plain and flat. I've seen that 49 bumpers have the ribs in them and think they would look better on my car. Would 49 bumpers bolt right up to a 50 or would some fabricating needed?

The temp guage is brand new, I am running no thermostat although I've read on the forum that its better to have one than none. I have not been able to drive on the highway as the car is not legal yet but I've been doing some driving on side streets in town. 20-30 MPH max, when I get some speed the temp does go down some. The throttle return spring broke in two and got replaced with a stronger one. When the gas pedal is pushed down the linkage works fine but I noticed that when it returns it goes fast at first but then stops and slowly goes all the way back down.

I got the overheating problem (half) solved, the heat riser was stuck and the fan shroud was put back on. Still runs hot but is about 10 degrees cooler now. My next problem on the agenda is the idle. The idle speed screw is turned down all the way but it still idles high and slowly creeps higher and higher, but when its driving or when the brake is on at a stop light is idles at the right speed. What is going on and how can it be fixed?

the temp is around 190 to 200 with no thermostat when its about 65 outside and in town driving (25 MPH and under)

My 50 dodge just got running and after a backflush it still runs hot, are there any ways to clean out the block without taking apart the engine? I have read on some websites to use CLR, mild acid, or hooking up a power washer to clean it out. would any of these work with out having to take apart the engine or could things like CLR have a negative effect on the inside of the engine when it heats up?

I just got a spitfire head its looks great but after finding out that the head is 2" too long for my 50 dodge I want to find the 25" long block for it and build my 22 dodge rat rod with it. My question is just how radical can these engines perform? I want to shave the bottom of the head, have a cam regrind and a duel carb setup. If done right can these engines be a respectable responsive hot rod engine?

I'm working on a '50 dodge coronet lead sled it still has the original 230 flathead. I don't have enough money yet to split the manifold however some one has offered to split the pipes behind the stock manifold, would that sound any good or should I just wait to split a manifold.