T120

A good suggestion from, Flatie46 , - using some light foam insulating board and an extra tarp between the frame the top. This could prevent moisture condensing inside and dripping from the top.

If you have the required height in your garage, I would suggest choosing to purchase a lift for additional vehicle storage...A couple of disadvantages of the frame ,fabric shelters that come to mind are anchoring the perimeter substantially to avoid movement during windy conditions...Also depending on where they are erected, if there isn't a moisture barrier on the ground and sufficient air movement inside they will draw moisture and condensation could be a problem during temperature and humidity cycles..

Depends on the parallax error of the facility...?-lol

My shop manual (WM-4184) lists 58.5 - 66.5 foot pounds for the wheel hub bolts for your 48 Dodge.

Not everyone - having owned a couple of vintage convertibles myself in the past , I prefer a hardtop or two door coupe/sedan... While a convertible may grab some attention while driving with the top down, and certainly resale value reflected in the price obtained at auctions, IMHO they're overrated, perhaps my age is showing … lol

Forum member, JIPJOBXX, called his blackout Dodge."Cowdodge"….

You are correct, 228.1 cu in is the engine displacement for the 1937 C16 model. I don't have any pictures but this is from my 1937 shop manual... (note 4)

Always having had an interest in vintage cars; in 1962 I bought a 1937 Chrysler C16 coupe - absolutely solid stock body with no rust. When I bought the car ,it still had the stock radio for the year and also the original owner's manual in the glove box.The paint colour however had been changed to "plum red" .The engine while "stock" had been slightly modified ,fitted with an Edmunds dual carb intake,dual carburetors as well as an exhaust cutout.Not a hotrod by any means, but kinda cool at the time - owning the car helped me keep my bubble on the level for a couple of years tinkering and driving it.? The cost at the time to buy the car was $100.00

I'm sure there's a lot of forum members who have used one of the fast oil change franchises has a story to tell because of a bad experience. It's too bad that there is some disreputable business owners that ruin the name for their other associates...I avoid using them and change my own oil. My one experience was many years ago with one of the aforementioned franchises. My wife's car was due for an oil change, it was a Saturday and we were planning on leaving for a vacation trip. I had been away working all week, was in a hurry and had a number of things to do prior to us leaving, one was getting a haircut. I went to a barber in the city and noticed one of the fast lube places was across the street. I dropped in and arranged for an oil change and I was back within the hour, the car was outside ready to be picked up. I paid for the service and left. The following day I popped the hood on the car and checked the oil level, while it was full, the oil was black. The oil filter had been changed but it appeared while they had installed a different oil filter ,they had neglected to change the oil.Needless to say,I was rather steamed, I changed the oil myself before we left and kept a sample of the drained oil. When we returned from our trip I took my receipt along with the oil sample to the fast lube place, talked to the business owner and politely asked for a refund - he refused and asked me to leave the premises. Not about to let it slide, I got in touch with the district office of the franchise, they were apologetic and gave me a full refund.

I am not active on FB...Don't look for me there.This is the only site that check with regularly - If you find a reference to me elsewhere , please regard that as an imposter... or plagiarism .?

… This reference pretty well covers the topic https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Corrosion.pdf Article - Corrosion.pdf

I expressed myself rather poorly and should have reserved comment. I don't have a problem with steel and aluminum in contact but personally I would avoid using brass fittings in direct contact with aluminum. The aluminum will suffer corrosion - how quickly it reacts will depend to some extent on the environment .

I am quite interested and enthused reading about your project and progress to date, and thank you for your updates. I certainly don't want to appear as a critic, - looking at the crankcase ventilation ,it looks great and realizing this may not be the final configuration - I noticed there is a number of dissimilar metals in the plumbing. I might be concerned about galvanic corrosion.

I'm also glad to see a forum member was in a position to buy Don's car, certainly one of the best documented powertrain builds on the forum.

I don't know what viscosity of synthetic oil was used. My son does use Shell Rotella 0W-40 synthetic in his equipment during winter for easier starting and switches to Shell Rotella 15W- 40 conventional engine oil during the summer... I've also found this subject interesting - I don't use synthetic engine oil myself so I've never given it much thought. Years ago I bought a case of Esso Zero Artic for cold weather starts in the winter, it was a para synthetic blend and it worked very well. I only bought the one case and it's long gone.

Several years ago my son brought home a high mileage PT cruiser ( bought it cheap) and parked it in my driveway. Underneath the engine wasn't spotless, but there were no annoying oil drips on the concrete. He gave the car an oil change and for some reason used synthetic oil, right away the car started marking the area where he parked it. After awhile I moved it, cleaned up the driveway and changed the oil using a multigrade 10W30 conventional oil and this solved the annoying drip...So from that experience I would guess that maybe there's a larger proportion of big molecules than the smaller molecules in conventional motor oil. ?

Yes, it is old...still makes a sloshing sound in the can, not sure what reducers were added. This paint does contain lead .Last I used was probably 10 years ago, no problem with the colour match nor drying. ☺️

I have a 1948 Dodge D25C, same paint code 4012.This is an old can of touch-up paint I use, Dulux 796. May be hard as mentioned to get an exact match.

As I mentioned regarding N.O.S. under hood lights of this type...Chances are the mercury switched lamp socket is no longer serviceable and the light won't work as designed

Something I should mention is that I would not recommend buying one of these under hood lights expecting it to work. The chances are very good the mercury switched lamp socket is no longer working. The lamp would have to be modified using a different socket and perhaps a manually switched, fused supply.

This is the installation instruction sheet for the under hood lamp. It does mention position of the lamp on the firewall on the oil filler side and adjusting rod length as required.... You can tap, Crtl +, on your keyboard to enlarge the image.

The under hood light Rich mentioned is probably the same as fitted to my 48 Dodge D25 (alligator style hood). The MoPar Part No. is 1232607. Although the box shows side opening hood, this light was supplied when the car was delivered to the original owner.The cost as listed on the original invoice was $1.75. The lamp is spring loaded and tilts up when the hood is raised as shown in the photo. As per the instructions, the position of the lamp is the same for both types of hood. I cut the wire to the lamp as the insulation was deteriorated. It wouldn't be difficult to replace the wire, but these days I require a bit more light than this lamp would supply when I'm working under the hood.?

A couple of years back I was at a farm auction in southern Alberta - there was a Plymouth P15 coupe in the sale, kinda rough, needed a total restoration. Someone in the past had fitted it with tail lights from a DeSoto S11 .They appeared to be a good fit and looked okay . A bit larger than the P15 - I'm not sure if there would be enough of an improvement to make the change worthwhile...

You are quite correct ,it should fall forward if working properly - good observation ?

Hard to say what your neighbour is dealing with...maybe off his meds?