JBNeal

additional information - piston ring installation instructions

This may or may not help...

Oil pans, etc are interchangeable for front and rear sump engines...gotta have the front sump for steering + axle clearance on the B-series

Them extra holes could be for weight reduction or for seat instruction tag for Right Hand Drivers...

Thus is the insidious nature of swollen brake rubber: the force applied to the brake pedal could be 200#, but the drag of swollen parts + the constriction of hoses kicks in and the various return springs cumulatively might only have 100# of force, so the hydraulic pressure releases slowly instead of almost instantaneously when brake pedal force is removed. Driving the car might duplicate the problem, but it may be time to inspect each brake part more closely. Even with new parts, damage may occur from brake fluid contamination. So starting with the MC sounds like a good approach, but physically inspecting each moving part might be in order. This is how I found out the depth of my brake problems on The QuadCab, by comparing how much effort was required to move caliper and MC pistons by hand with replacement parts. The caliper pistons varied in how hard it was to re-seat them, and none were as easy to re-seat as replacement calipers. The MC showed similar variation during bench bleeding compared to its replacement. At this point, my suspicions of brake fluid contamination were confirmed, and I went ahead and replaced rubber hoses, etc. flushed out hard lines with brake cleaner and compressed air, and power bled the system. It was tedious, messy, and kinda $$$ but the brake issue that I had fought for months was resolved...in that link I posted, I also touched on the importance af proper lubricant used on critical parts. As I told a lady friend who could not wrap her head around why I was doing so much work on that old buggy, brakes are like being on a see saw: if one person is too hefty, then neither have any fun...the big kid can launch himself up a little, but the little kid doesn't balance him enough to teeter on the bar, so the big kid doesn't really go far (unless he tries to launch the little kid into orbit by cannonballing the see saw, slamming his end into the ground, then jumping off real quick if the runt is still on his end, just to be a jerk). This is kinda what's happening in car brakes, with the brake pedal applying force to energize hydraulic circuits, then the return springs de-energize the hydraulic circuits to complete the balancing act.

I thought I knew purty much everything about brakes, then I had to deal with an aging ABS on The QuadCab...kinda sounds like ya might have rubber components that have swollen from brake fluid contamination and multiple components are dragging, maybe hoses are constricting...there was one line in my shop manual that mentioned that complete component replacement is required for all components that have rubber internal parts when brake fluid has been contaminated, and that's what I had to do for calipers, hoses, MC, etc...it fixed that slow returning brake pedal after months of furcurking with it piecemeal

On the last set of guides that I installed, I eyeballed the guide depth with a mark I drew on each guide, checked the depth and drove to specs...if I overdrove a guide, I used a prybar to back the guides out carefully...all with the engine in the truck

additional information - fuel line routing

additional information - sender gasket

asking the same question 3 times in 48 hours is kinda frowned upon as poor forum etiquette...having patience is probably the most important thing required in doing any kind of restoration

Some folks cover the contacts with dielectric grease to minimize future corrosion...

Chrysler Turbine, with the powertrain that was briefly considered as an option for the original Charger

I tried to fix a couple of these and they fell all to pieces...bought several Roberts units over the years, and they would eventually fail with the same failure modes...so I opted to use the zinc plated flange from the Roberts unit to make Tod Fitch's modification using a Tanks Inc sending unit, complete with a ground stud for improved continuity...hasn't failed yet

my '49 spent many years as a feline sanctuary in The Panhandle before I dragged it home...haven't had a mouse problem for going on 20 years of being parked between a cornfield and a hay pasture...the others in the fleet have not fared so well ?

I have an old Lisle gasket scraper that I use, starting at a corner towards the main belt pulley, setting the edge flat on the flange and bopping the handle with my fist or a heavy ratchet handle...the thick gaskets that are set up into the block cavities have to be worked out carefully...a trick I learned was to put longer bolts at the 4 corners of the oil pan, upwards of 2" and only threaded in a bolt diameter, so that when the oil pan finally lets go, them longer bolts catch the pan...these longer bolts also can be used as pilots for oil pan installation and replaced with the correct bolts before final torque

I recall reading a line in several older shop manuals that a drop of light engine oil is to be applied to all linkage pivots when changing engine oil...

when I jacked up my cab, the rubber was stuck to the metal, but I only raised it by maybe 1/4", used a gasket scraper to separate the rubber from the metal...it was a slow going process, but I got it done without using too many creative german phrases nor doing any damage to the sheet metal.

To replace the cab mounts, I removed the bolt and lower rubber, lifted the cab enough to get the weight off of the upper washer, then grasped the spacer tube with some needle nosed vise grips to wiggle that tube out of the washer, as I assumed they were pressed together. Once it broke loose, I worked that tube out of the upper spacer. I used a trolley jack on the running boards, with a 1" thick plywood scrap under the jack and a 2x6 strategically placed under the cab, and lifted the cab just enough to extract the old rubber...new rubber was taller so I had to jack the cab up a little more to set it in its new location.

maybe that panel is wedged between the cab and fender from a pancaked cab mount...

additional information - bulb chart

Don't forget about that timing chain oiler

I heard a rumor that ya might have a NOS floormat that might cover this whole area...

additional information - replacement radiators

Balance might depend on runout...might be too late to check, but comparing runout of the original pulleys to the modifications could give a baseline comparison...

moparpro has an eBay store that lists a reproduction that was released a few months ago...not sure of the quality but it is a direct replacement with a competitive price to having an existing tank Renu'd