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DCJ

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About DCJ

  • Rank
    Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1949 Dodge Meadowbrook

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  • Biography
    24
  • Occupation
    Business owner, General Contractor

Converted

  • Location
    Cincinnati, Ohio
  • Interests
    Bluegrass

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  1. Jim, I have not yet been able to get my block up to machine shop, but I'll try to catch some pictures of this goo if I find some more (there was some in the bottom of the pan when I removed it, I just havent messed with the thing in a few weeks). Give me a few days, it's going into the teens this weekend out here, so I have some other winterizing I need to complete! Thanks! It was pretty apparent as I started pulling down into this that it had been apart previously. I just kept finding random/ non-matching gasket builder, bolts, nuts,
  2. Sorry I disappeared for a few days fellas! I've been combing my manual the last couple days... My valve spring compression tool was not here on Thursday afternoon... THen it didn't show up on Thursday... and NOW I'm being told it will be here Tuesday. Not too worried though, I have plenty of time. Cars' been here since the middle of the 20th century, I think it can survive a few frustrating days with me (haha). Also discovered that the 'sleeves' I keep referring to, are actually referred to as 'bearing shells' in my shop manual (PG 222 Dodge Shop Manual, Sec
  3. THat's a good question. I suppose it all really comes down to cost, in a way. I like doing things myself an awful lot. If he's able to paint it and have it all ready to go, and it won't cost me much to do it, then it's very likely I'll have him do that. I won't be able to get the stuff to him today, but am planning on getting everything to him on Monday. I'll ask him to include the other stuff in his quote for me at that time.
  4. I do, actually. Haven't spent too much time in it. I picked this car up on trade in April (first 'real' classic), and didn't really even get a chance to mess with it until a couple weekends back. I did order a digital version of the shop manual, and have that available to me (Ordered from Detroit Iron Information Systems), but am just now getting into this project in general, and there is a lot of information in there. Another guy over in a Jalopy forum had posted a video of a guy rebuilding one of these things, and called them bearing 'sleeves' (which, from a purely
  5. Awesome, thanks for the info! I'm really trying to get as many parts as I can ready for paint. Machine guy says he can get my block ready for that, but I'm not sure what that means, or if his procedure would be useful for the other components I have that I'd like to have done. This engine does have surface rust, as do covers and such. Just trying to figure the best way to go about doing this. I had a motorcycle frame done years back, prepped for paint, but I just honest to god can not remember what it was that I had done. I remember we had it 'dipped' somew
  6. Yes, I agree, I already talked to the machine shop, and they said they can do that (a lot less mess for me anyway...). I also don't blast with anything that isn't water soluble. Sometimes takes longer, but I've heard of horror stories about guys using glass, or oxide, shavings and chips that get stuck in places they shouldn't be... Or sucked up into things they shouldn't be in either. Definitely going to be worth it to let this guy handle this all at once. He says he can get it all the way prepped for paint for me (at least the block and head). Just as a question... M
  7. Standby... This engine is a 23 1/2" block, exactly!
  8. Thanks! If you find one, can you send in a link to that part? I also think you're right. #1, #3, and I beleive #6 had some odd spalling like this in those bearing sleeves... I can't seem to find any dates stamped on anything, and I also do not see any numbers stamped on the top of those pistons either. I do not know if the bore has been messed with. First step is to get these valves and springs out. I'm off to get a spring tool, and then I'll get this guy cleaned up the best I can and ready for transport. Will a machine shop already have the specs for what
  9. Sorry, I have a few new pics that might help! With my 'metrics' comment, I actually meant the different criteria. items, not literal metric system measurements, sorry about that, I was very, very tired. I hope some of these help. I'm going to call around a little and hunt down a shop today, and get a sense of what I'm looking at. With the broken part, I meant this end bracket/ flange deal at the end of this, see below (under timing chain cover). Also, I've already laid everything out in the order they are place. The rods all have matching numbers with the cap
  10. Thank you for the info! I've never pulled an engine completely down before, so this is definitely an ambitious project for me... I would appreciate if you stuck close by this thread, I'll be visiting it frequently as I move forward, and can always use all the help I can get understanding what I'm looking for/ at. I have a machine shop that I used several years ago to mill down the head of an ex's car I was rebuilding after she blew a head gasket, I'm sure they would know more. Do you have any idea how much it might cost for a shop to clean this block up (g
  11. Sorry, I actually did NOT attach that picture... Those pictures were of the sleeves themselves, not the actual rod surface, there are no bearings underneath those that they ride on. They ride directly against the crankshaft. In that context though... The crankshaft surfaces seem to be super smoothe, I didn't notice any scoring, or marring of any kind on any of the rod to crank meeting places. Just some weird wearing on the rod to crank sleeves (they just seem really cheap, honestly).
  12. That's a very good question... Not sure, actually. I can tell you that there was this strange, silver, metallic, 'goop' in there though. Not a ton of the stuff... but definitely enough to make me scratch my head. I thought it looked like a soupy version of Permatex anti-seize...
  13. I have not, no, but I'm not entirely sure what it should come out to either. I do NOT have much of a machining background at all. I can take the measurements, but I'm not sure what to measure, or what those metrics need to reflect. I'll be hunting down a gauge tomorrow to add to the collection, but I was hoping to find a gauge for the bore as well, not sure what to go searching for. I also get a very, very strong sense that this motor has been 'rebuilt' before. there are numerous bright-blue gaskets all over the place, definitely modern, and they go all the way down to the deepest
  14. I did BOTH, I lifted the rear dif, and I also removed the rear first (the bolts holding it in place were NOT studs like the back of the trans, they were standalone sets of bolts/ nuts and came right out! Thank you so, so much! Definitely saved me a bunch of headache.
  15. Hello all, I made a post several days ago about my rough idle issue, I only just got the motor running a couple weekends back, so this is all fresh... I ended up rebuilding the carb (cleaned, all new seals, etc.), but it still ran sort of goofy. Well... I decided to get frisky with it, and just pulled the whole motor (frustration and boredom are a funny couple). A little backstory here... After I sat a new 6V starter, and a brand new battery in it, she would NEVER start under her own power. I mean, would barely turn over here, if it even did that most tim
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