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Adam H P15 D30

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Everything posted by Adam H P15 D30

  1. Don, I lost track of your thread on the brake pedal issues you had. Though I am positive you will post a link What ever happened with that?
  2. Dad had a boat over at Oyster Pt. marina in S.F. when I was growing up. Flathead looked exactly like that, mounts and all. Prop ran off the front of the crank (mounted backwards). Boat was from 1957.
  3. You really don't need a fancy leak tester. Just hallow out an old spark plug and weld a air fitting onto it. Turn your compressor air down to about 50psi, run each cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and listen at the carb and tail pipe for the leak. Compression seems pretty good for a leaky valve though. How is the state of tune? Was it all gummy inside when you had the side covers off??? Did you do a wet compression test? What is the vacuum at idle?? Put a vacuum guage on it at see if it bounces around a lot at idle.
  4. I agree with ^^^^^ some sort of fuel primer. Looks similar but cruder to the primers on small aircraft. Was he into vintage aircraft? Perfect garage art.
  5. Save a penny now.... Cost a lot more later!!!!
  6. Ahhh. don't let the nay-sayers discourage you. Just make sure you know how much work an engine swap is. Once you are realistic about it, double what you think then dive in. Please post as you go. Better a Ford than a Chevy Last Ford I built, I put a Chrysler in it..... Lot's of grumbling from the "streetrod" crowd about that, but I just sat back and smiled.
  7. Very nice work. I'm jealous.
  8. Yes. The input shafts are interchangeable
  9. Easiest way I found was to remove the heater hose at the rear of the head. Fill radiator until coolant comes out of the heater hose connection. Reinstall and top off. Minimal air
  10. I narrowed my 47 about 4" on each side. Since I'm using an Explorer 8.8 I narrowed it to the Explorer spring width. I don't have any frame pictures as that was on my old puter that crashed. I do have an interior pictures that shows the new wheel wells. Being a coupe, it DID NOT interfere with my rear seat at all.
  11. Engine mounts are the same as the SB v8 Mustang mounts. Trans crossmember may have to be modified for length issues. Shouldn't be too hard though.
  12. Sorry I don't have any pictures to give you but the valance is attached to the bumper and sits about an inch below the the bottom of the trunk lid.
  13. Make sure to include the front crossmember and steering linkage in your measurements. Also a rear sump pan is a must...... The pan to crossmember / steering linkage is probably going to be the deciding factor whether you cut the firewall or not. Mine is clipped so I can't help you there.
  14. I brought mine back on my 47 about 4.5 inches but I have a few inches in front of the engine so if you move the radiator to the front side of the support it MIGHT fit in there, but it will be very close. I'm not sure it will fit at all with the stock steering box.
  15. Posie has lowered springs also if that's the look you're going for.
  16. Hey TR, Looks awesome..... Almostly exactly how I cut the back of my 47. How many inches did you go in? Suspension? Engine? Oh yea I would think it's going to be a HEMI but who knows....... 40 rear window??
  17. Hey TR, I have a 49 Dodge Wayfarer 2dr, I think it's on the same chassis as a plym. What do you need?
  18. My wife calls me that all the time....... I guess I'm not alone.
  19. ARRRGH...... Who cares what anyone else thinks. Build it how you want it so you will be happy with your car. If someone gets on you about what you have done, tell them to write the checks next time. Or ask them where their car is.
  20. I took a coil out of the front and 2" blocks in the rear. Also removed the smallest bottom leaf and got another 1/2 inch, maybe more. Rides and handles just fine. I do have 20psi in the rear air shocks. Front stiffened a little after the coil cut. Wouldn't go much more, only about an inch before the front snubber hits, still got 4+" to the rear snubber. No tire clearance issues. 195/65/15 in front. 235/75/15 in rear. Going to a shorter tire in rear because I'm putting a taller rear gear in it as we speak.
  21. Unless it is a full blown race car there is nothing to be gained by solid mounts except vibrations. Might want to rethink that. Looking good by the way, I follow all of your posts on here and the HAMB.
  22. It almost looks like a Nailhead intake. Not a Chrysler Hemi or Poly.
  23. Never seen one completed??? Really??? Let's see.... My 39 Plym, 12v for 5 years, that was 20 years ago. My 40 Ford pick up, 12v DAILY DRIVER Flathead 60k miles in 7 years. R10 overdrive adapted into the torque tube with 6v solenoids running on 12v for the duration, no problems. Sold it and it is still going. 49 Dodge, 12v for the last 3 years, weekend driver but no electrical problems.. All of my conversions took less than a week to COMPLETE. If you do electrical add ons, it is really ok to go to 12v to support them. Sheesh
  24. It's a Fluid Drive Over Drive For Sale????
  25. WOW I hope Falconvan doesn't read this we could loose yet another GREAT forum member with a huge amount of talent.
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