Adam H P15 D30

This is starting to get pointless. No where did I say they changed over for brighter lights. The Lucas example I used is a common "joke" among any British car owner, I assumed you might have known that. I happen to be a hotrodder, this is an arugment I have had for years with all sorts of Purists. Especially when I streetrodded a Packard. It will go nowhere. I will bow out now. Good Luck On Edit: To the origional poster, I hope I helped you a little with your question. I have "converted" many vehicles so if you have a question, just ask.....

Are you saying a 6v system has the same performance as a 12v system??? Yes my 6v headlights were just as bright as my 12v ones are. Where the enhancement lies is when you want to add accessories. The 30amp output (on the freeway) of the generator is not capable of handling many accessories. I also saw the 6v alternators but if you're going to modify something by an alternator, just go the extra step and do it all the way. Last week my brake light bulb went out..... Trip to O'rileys and 5 minutes. No special order, no waiting for a 6 volt bulb. I also like being able to idle at a red light with the heater on, lights on, radio on and not seeing a 20 amp discharge. Oh, and that brings up another point, as I like to drive my car, try to find a positive ground modern radio. Even with a 6 volt alternator you are still limited to what you can add to the electrical system, the amp draw adds up twice as fast.

Wow, my harness was perfect (replaced by P.O.) I mainly got tired of the generator. Just having an alternator is the biggest plus. Harnesses designed for 12v are much more plentiful than one designed for the amp load of 6v. It cost less than $200.00 to convert mine. There is a reason vehicle manufactures went to 12v and alternators!! Same reason most people HATE Lucas electronics....... DARKNESS. Alternator (10si) 80.00 horn relay: 5.00 starter relay: I had Coil: 25.00 Headlamps: 50.00 Light bulbs: <25.00 Flasher: 10.00 Alt bracket: made it out of scrap Runtz voltage reducer for fuel guage: 17.00 (speedway motors)

I sure like the looks of those Poly motors!!!!

I get that sometimes. Especially love it when they pick your car apart. I just ask them where their car is. End of conversation.

When my generator rear bushing failed it sounded like a squeely belt. Then I noticed the gen vibrating badly. I also had an oil lite bushing installed but it failed due to lack of oiling. No power loss though, charged all the way to the end.

Please let us know how far the spring plate lowers the car. I suggested it but never have done it. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Same shape as my 49 Dodge but face is different? 49-52 Plym maybe????. But it would physically fit in my Dodge.

Just measure the angle of the flange at the rear of the transmission. Then you match that angle on the pinion flange. /--------------------/

Use a protractor to measure the angle of the engine and transmission (crankshaft angle). Make sure the pinion is set to the SAME angle. You can purchase shims that go between the spring and rear axle perches to change the angle.

If a Hemi fits in my P15, a 440 will certainly fit. Not a bolt in deal but not rocket science.

Beat you by 1 minute

The sender probably doesn't care what voltage, but it must match the guage resistance to be accurate. If you are keeping the stock guages I would put the stock sender in and run a "runtz" voltage drop to the guage. Very easy to install. I bought mine at Speedway Motors for $15.00.

Where did you get the radiator??? NICE RIDE!!!

Well Said!!!

Also make sure you NEVER have a flat tire

Posie makes a rear spring that will lower it 2" or so. It's a Superslide so it might ride better also. Got a set on my 47 but I haven't finished it yet so I don't know how it will ride.

Not to mention camber / caster angles as I'm sure the spindle does not come off the upright at 90degs. I cut 1 coil out but now I wish I moved the lower spring plate to the bottom of the control arm. I had my lower control arms "stepped" about 20 years ago on my 39 Plym. Only cost 175.00. Sure it is more now. I did have to make camber / caster adjustments after the coil was cut, but didn't when I had the lower control are stepped. FYI. Might not be enough camber adjustment available if the spring plate is lowered.

Did you check it? Make sure the U bolts do not hang lower than the bead of your tire, or the bottom of the rim.

I wish I followed this thread better. You were less than a mile from my house.

I think the fuel pump is driven off the cam like most engines. Maybe a flat lobe for the pump??

I'm not sure I even go 5-6 seconds, after 3 times it should start. I agree, that guy was a FOOL!!

1- Fill tank and do the math (15g. tank I think) 2- check all grounds for sender (not sure if it's a 1 wire or 2) 3- remove sender and inspect float. Accessed through trunk floor 3- when sender is removed and grounded with jumper wire, move float arm throughout its range and see if fuel guage moves. 4- perform these and check back with results.

472 / 500 Cad backed by a 700. Keep it all CADDI!!

Looks good. Check your scrub line when you use blocks.