Adam H P15 D30

The 518 is a 727 with an overdrive hanging off the back of it. It uses the same shifter that a 727 would. Mine is NOT a lock up transmission so I can use any 727 torque converter. There is a 2 wire connector, power and ground shifts it into overdrive. Can split every gear if you want to. Much easier than a 700r4.

Got the transmission crossmember built and installed today. No more blocks under the car holding everything up

Engine shifted to the right 1", no room for a steering box. Had to cut the crossmember to clear drivers header, Will plate that in and finish when engine comes back out.

Here is a shot of a narrowed control arm from Fatman. Had to do a little surgery to the radiator support to clear the steering box but I don't know how I could have put the Hemi in there with the stock steering where is was. Clearence is tight and the Firebird frame rails are spaced farther apart than the old Plym ones were. Remember, the subframe was done 20+ years ago. I probably would have done it again the same way but with the new control arms it was just as expensive as a Mustang II kit. I believe the quality of the heavier GM units is better than the Mustang II because they were designed for a much heavier car. I will have to do major surgery to the inner fender panels to clear the cylinder heads so the control arms will be visable from under the hood.

Here are some more pictures including my helper. Could not have done it without him. Motor mounts are from Hot Heads. But they are TCI units I believe.

Front clip is a 71 Firechicken. Going to put the Fatman narrow control arms on it. Got the motor mounts and trans mount done this weekend. Decided to loose the 700r4 trans for a 518 Torqueflite. Here are some more pictures..... Out with the old and in with the new.

The story behind this car goes: I had a 39 Plym Bus coupe in high school and my best friend wanted something similar. He found a running 47 S/D. Well he stripped it down in hopes of making a modern type streetrod. My dad and his best friend helped us do the clip partially set up the chassis. The floors and rockers were completely rusted out and after it sitting for a couple of years his pops made him get rid of it. He sold it to a mutual friend and it sat for another 10 years. Then I got a call that it was going to be scrapped, so I stepped in and bought it for 100.00. Probably paid too much for it???? Time to get to business (about 10 years ago). Floors and rockers were first, then the firewall had to come back because I was NOT going to run the SB chebby it was set up for. After the floors and rockers were finished I narrowed the rear and redid the trunk and wheel wells. Then all work stopped for a number of years.

Hello to All..... Now that my 49 Dodge is pretty much where I want it (for now), I decided it was time to get back to work on the Plym after a 5 year break. Here are some pictures as I left it, same story kids, life.......

I would use the 6v starter with NO solenoid. Then use a 12v remote solenoid. Starter doesn't know the difference between 6 and 12v as long as you don't grind away at it.

Hotrodding is about putting what ever in what ever. Though I'm not a fan of the sbc because they are like belly buttons (everyone has them) who cares. But swapping valve covers to hide them is as bad as those Hemi valve covers on sbc's. I think whatever mounts you find, welding and modification will be necessary. Don't know of a bolt in kit.

I had to trim my battery bracket back a bit also to clear my alternator. Still really close but never hits. Oh and by the way...... Check that fan for cracks CAREFULLY!!!

Second day in a row you made me laugh, Don

Now that's funny!!!

CRAP, I gutted my old radio for nothing

I checked the bearings on the side of the road and they are still tight. The fan's crack was 3/4 rusty then a fresh break. Engine ran perfectly smooth until failure so I don't think it was a wobbler. There will be no mechanical fan going back on. Electric fan only.... So much quieter and safer.....

So I took the 49 Dodge out for a drive. When accelerating onto the freeway, about 4000 rpm, I heard a loud bang, clank and metal parts bouncing off the road and the floor board Then a really bad vibration as I was pulling over. My first thought was the engine just let go. As I came to a stop I noticed the oil pressure was still at 40psi. Lifted the hood and found my new 3 bladed fan....... Only damage was a dent in the battery box and my headlight harness cut clean through. BOY WAS I LUCKY. I had to remove it and drive home without a fan but it never got over 170 on a 60deg day. I have an electric fan that is going on now because I really liked how quiet the engine is without that fan. Moral of this story is CHECK THAT 60 YEAR OLD FAN!!!! Could have cost me a radiator, hood or worse????????

My gosh man you do good work!!!!!!!! I really enjoy following this thread. Everything looks PRO.

Awesome!!! Now that's hotrodding by definition.

Fuel guage does't see polarity. Hook it up normally, pos or neg ground doesn't matter. I used a Runtz voltage drop but I have heard of people running them on 12v with no issues. I error on the caution side.

Every van I had got 10 in town and I usually could squeeze 15 on extended highway trips. Friend had a Dodge van set up exactly like that(same colors even) and he got 12 no matter what.

They are flatter and the eyes are reversed. Got me about 2" lower with no blocks. Slightly lower than you profile picture. LOVE THE WHEELS!!!!!!! No pictures yet, car is apart again. They really are NEVER done are they?

Hey Marty, Yes they do, I bought a set for my 47 that bolted right into the front spring hanger. What I am not sur of is if they make stock height springs. I think they do but I got the lowered ones.

Might be easier and cheaper just to order them from Posie. They are a bolt in and new material.

I used #8, but #10 should be ok. How many amps is your alternator?