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Adam H P15 D30

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Everything posted by Adam H P15 D30

  1. Kept most of the writing on the amp gauge mainly because I couldn't duplicate the font. Clocked the gauge so battery voltage was straight down charging to the left and discharge to the right. A touch of color added makes it easier to read.
  2. Then with the help of my friend JB, attach the original needle to the Autometer needle
  3. Next step is to attach the guts from the Autometer to the Dodge face
  4. So after driving the Dodge around for a year now with a volt gauge mounted under the dash, I decided I couldn't stand the look anymore. I really didn't want to reconnect the amp gauge up again because I don't trust them. After kicking this around for a while I decided to incorporate my Autometer volt guage into the cluster. Being picky I didn't want to stick the aftermarket guage behind the glass because I haven't seen an example that didn't look like an aftermarket guage stuck behind some glass. First step is to disassemble the old guage
  5. My resisted switch on my 49 controls my 12v heater motor just fine. Has a medium and high. Btw I used a heater motor out of a 64 Dart because it's what I had lying around. I figure those motors are pretty much universal except shaft length and diameter. Probably be able to find a replacement quickly. To add to the list of items not needing a reducer, I have been running my clock on 12v for years now with no problems. Just winds a little faster.
  6. Check out my build thread in my signature. I haven't updated it in a year but some of your options are there.
  7. Yes, my stock 15" wheels fit easily over olddaddy's disc brakes on my 49.
  8. My oldest learning to drive in my 49. Figured if she could drive that, she could drive any car. I drive mine all the time so I don't have specialty, restrictive classic car insurance. Same as if she drove any of my vehicles. She did pretty well.
  9. Regarding the vacuum source, Put a vacuum reservoir with a check valve in line with the wipers and you won't miss the boosted fuel pump. I took mine out of an F250, bolted to the back of the right inner fender with almost no modification. Wipers work like electrics. Bonus.... If it comes out of a diesel it will have an electric vacuum pump attached to it that maintains 20in or so of vacuum and it is black plastic so it's hard to see.
  10. Plymouthy, What's the pvc pipe under your car for?
  11. As I always understood it, wiring the coil leads backwards will result in a weak spark??
  12. Correct. If you run an external resistor the coil lead to the relay will attach to the non resisted side(firewall side). Also, change to a 12v relay.
  13. If you are converting to - ground also, the lead marked neg coil will change to + coil.
  14. Drop a chain down the middle if you can. Will keep it from flying is it breaks free.
  15. If memory serves, the stock master cylinder is mentioned in the instructions. I am also pretty sure it has a built in residual pressure valve that is too high for disc brakes. My 49's front brakes drag a little too much and I will be taking the stock pressure valve out of the factory master cylinder and installing a 2lb front and 10lb rear residual pressure valves in line.
  16. Heard the explorers used some of the best cylinder heads also. FWIW
  17. Really nice job. You have taken a car a lot of people would pass by and made it into a real one off. My hat is off to you sir.
  18. Drilling and tapping the spindles is easy. The Volare rotors are much better than Probe rear rotors. Major reason I chose oldaddy's kit.
  19. Don't need to change the horn. Just install a 12v relay and is well
  20. Use the 12v battery and convert it over. You'll be glad you did in the long run. How much you want for the starter?
  21. This is why I went electric. A lot less damage if they fail. Newer cars have been using them for years.
  22. Some came with them and some didn't.
  23. Just run the vin and see. I think it went to 04 or so and mountaineers were part of the recall. Vin will tell all. The harness with the fuse is a plug and play and not too expensive. Look at the switch earlier in the thread, if it has the switch there should be a harness with a zip tie and inline ATO fuse. If not the recall wasn't done. It was a safety recall so it would still be active. If you don't care about cruise control simply unplug the switch and tape up the harness end. Problem solved.
  24. No, not exactly right. The switch leaks internally, shorting the always hot circuit to ground, melting the harness and burning. Electrical / brake fluid fire. Recall was to put a fused pigtail between the connector (harness) and switch. Then to replace the switch only if it is leaking. Trust me I worked for Ford for 20 years.
  25. Yup, that's the c.c. deactivation switch. Put 3 of them on my excursion now cause of leaking. 1 under recall, 2 by me. + 1 on plugging it.
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