cybermca

i started removing metal. it's very close to fitting now and i am going to start making some sheet metal inserts for the new shape. i will take a picture when i'm done

this is a 1950 plymouth suburban

i did a test fit on my front clip around the newly installed 318 v8 before i paint it. it seems i will need to make some modifications to the inner fenders or remove a bunch of sheet metal to clear the exhaust manifolds. does anyone one have pictures of what they did on their swap?

thanks for the help!!

putting together a friends car that had started a front suspension rebuild 3 years ago. neither of us can remember if the "bent" arm was on the passenger side or the driver side? 1951 plymouth sedan

i used butchs mount kit. it was fairly useful although there was still some fabrication that needed to happen. if i did it again i would just get a universal trans mount and some basic hot rod engine mounts and just alter those and save the money. the exhaust is the bigger issue. either change to rack and pinion ( probably $800 when your done), or shift the engine 1" to the passenger side and find 70's dart exhaust manifolds ( $200 on eBay) to work around the original steering column. i can take some photos in a few days. there are people who have done this swap a bunch on the forum, just search for more info

i have a torqueflite from a motor home, so i have the trans brake system for emergency brakes.... sounds like just keeping the rear end in there for now is fine. i can always switch it over later if it breaks. thanks for the input

i am doing a 318/727 small block conversion and have finally got the engine mounted up in the car. next is drive shaft and exhaust. since the original rear end is in perfect working order, is it worth getting a drive shaft made up to mate to it or will the v8 torque snap something in the next year. i'm not going to be doing burnouts or anything since the motor is fairly mild. just wondering if i should get an explorer rear end or be able to use the original for now....?? who has broken one?

i guess i will leave them and grease them up real good

in the process of replacing my king pins on my 1950 suburban because they came with the front end rebuild kit. they both seem to be perfectly fine. movement is smooth throughout swing and there is no looseness or knocking at all. they are very tight. should i just leave them alone or is it really worth taking them apart if i don't have the installer tool and the reamer?

the only thing have left is to replace the king pins. i tapped out the pin on the side, now how do i get the dust caps out? they appear to be pressed in with the knuckle casting metal bent or hammered over the edges. was that a factory thing?

starting to go through my kantor rebuild kit and just wondering if there are any pointers out there before i get frustrated. i plan on making some steel spacers so the ends don't bend in when i crank down on the knuckles. any insight would be helpful. thanks

got it off. 4 bolts behind kick panels.. thanks.. i will posting my 218 running engine with HEI dizzy to the classifieds or on ebay next week. 48k mile car

wiring and hood are already done. i will take the kick panels out later and take a peak. thanks a bunch

i am in the process of installing a 318 with auto and rebuilding the front suspension with the kantor kit. i figured both of those tasks would be much simpler with all the front sheet metal out of the way. i think i have all the bolts out but it still feels attached or stuck. i have removed : upper fender bolts to firewall, lower bolts near door bottoms, 2 small bolts to flange behind tires, and the larger nuts under the radiator. we can pick the front up and slide it forward enough to get the stud out of the slot below the radiator but there is still a lot of resistance. i don't want to keep pulling for fear there is some attachment i have missed.. any experience would be greatly appreciated