190bearplace

The 230 engine with a 218 flywheel seems to be the problem. The engine is marked D24 that a friend is putting in a 40 Plymouth PU. The flywheel is original to the truck, not to the engine. Thanks for the info and help

Probably about ten years ago Don Coatley described his problems and fixes with mating the transmission, clutch, and bellhousing on his project. I need hep finding that thread. I have found some pictures from the last part of 2013 showing the pilot bearing issues but no more. Seems like he was putting a long Dodge engine in his car. My problem is installing a D24 engine that had a fluid drive into a 40 Plymouth PU. The starter bendix gear binds with the flywheel teeth when installed. Or I need any input and thoughts of options.. Thanks for any help

Sorry Bob, I disagree. 6.00 16's are the way to go. See the huge difference?

Actually you can take the overcenter spring off and throw it away if the clutch linkage is adjusted correctly. It is there only to make the pedal easier to push. If the throw out arm linkage is not adjusted correctly the overcenter spring will make the pedal stick to the floor when the clutch is depressed. Which is his problem

Bingo! That should be the first adjustment.

Are you sure the rod to the release bearing arm is adjusted correctly? The release arm should move almost as soon as pressure is applied to the pedal

Pictures of the ECI master cylinder set up on my P15. That is if my first try at uploading pictures works.

You are right. Rustyhope. It is a good set up. The pedals don't rub but it is a replacement floorboard

My pedal bushings were worn out. I paid the machine shop $35 to rebush them. I use the floorboard with original rubbers for stops. There is no pressure there. The clutch overcenter spring leaves little pressure on the top of the travel. I put a light pull spring on the master cylinder to pull the weight of the pedal away from the push rod. That is the only pressure against the floorboard. I bent the lines using the handle of a vise to form the radius at the master cylinder. I used a front disc set up from a member here. Plydo? It uses the smaller GM calipers so I can use the original wheels. The ECI disc set up uses the bigger GM calipers that causes the clearance problem but have more stopping power

Dang, I didn't know it was so much of a project. I just ordered it then installed it. But I didn't have to ask someone the difference between the big and little reservoirs either

Check with ECI, Engineered Components, Inc. They have the brake set up you are looking for plus discs if wanted. It works well altough a little tight to run brake lines.

My parts car is a Deluxe. I thought the same as you and was going to simplify things but ended up going chrome with a radio delete. I think I would sell it for a reasonable price but it may need to warm up here before I crawl under the dash to remove it. Offers?

Would that restriction be as small as a wire drill size? The machine shop pulled all the brass before dipping and boring. I thought that plug might be for the oil pressure line. I guess it makes sense not to have a 3/16 line dumping oil pressure

The follwing may be more info than most want to read but is by one of the top lubrication experts in the country. Otherwise intellegent technicians are increasingly turning to racing oil and oil supplements in an effort to prevent damage to flat tappet camshafts in fairly normal use. The common thread seems to be that ZDDP (historically common in thrifted oil products) is essential and that more ZDDP is better than less ZDDP. The stories and articles are filled with misinformation about the government somehow forcing a reduction in zinc content. Most aftermarket oil supplements use ZDDP to provide extra extreme pressure protection. ZDDP and other similar additives have absolutely zero benefit when the normal elasto-hydrodynamic lubrication (EHL) is present. This EHL prevents metal to metal contact. It also reduces friction. Oil pressure as we commonly know as that read on an oil pressure gauge does NOT provide a reasonable indication of EHL. In fact, the use of oil that is too thick will usually increase the pressure indicated by that gauge while reducing actual oil flow AND REDUCING EHL. When this extra thick oil is used, ZDDP or a similar additive will be needed far sooner because metal to metal contact will occur far sooner. When proper oil flow and EHL is already being provided, adding a bunch of ZDDP to the oil will have no benefit. And, when added in the quantities that are now being recommended in some circles, oil oxidation can be dramatically increased. In small properly managed quantities ZDDP can reduce oxidation/corrosion. In larger concentrations that are NOT determined based on an understanding of the overall chemistry of the oil product in question, oil oxidation can be dramatically increased. Homebrewing is fine for beer, but not for oil. The current and rapidly spreading urban legends recommending the use of racing oil to save all flat tappet camshafts from an extremely early death is most probably causing a great deal of the damage that is driving the spread of that same urban legend. Those who follow the recommendations will almost certainly end up using a much thicker oil. That will, in many cases, compromise the elasto-hydrodynamic lubrication. This is especially true of engines that are not operated under extremely heavy load racing conditions. Racing oil has absolutely no legal requirements and no industry standards that must be met. It can be almost anything from molasses to a group IV base stock. And, it is probably almost as likely to actually be molasses as it is to be a high quality group IV base stock. In most cases it will probably be a group I or group II base stock. It will also in most cases lack the additives that allow most mainstream industry approved oil products to last at least 3 months or 3,000 miles (and often 4-5 times that). Racing oil is often formulated to last only the length of the race which is not generally very long and is more frequently signaled by engine failure than a checkered flag (you might want to think about that). Adding a ZDDP supplement may further accelerate oxidation of these racing oils, and other oil products. Racing oil products already oxidize much more rapidly than other high quality mainstream oil products. The result is a breakdown of the oil and further thickening of an oil product that is already too thick to provide proper elasto-hydrodynamic lubrication under most tcommon conditions. ZDDP, when properly used is a cheap and effective way to improve the ability of a cheap base stock to provide a layer of last-ditch protection after EHL has failed. ZDDP reacts with engine metal surfaces to form a sacrificial film that is destroyed before the base metal is damaged. The current misinformed recommendations are replacing EHL with ZDDP. The result is likely to compromise many engines. Don't fall for it. Kevin McCartney Educator/Instructor/Consultant Automotive Support Services Fresno, California, USA

Is the electric pump still in line? It can cause a restriction. It is best to wire the pump to run any time the engine is running