Plymouthy Adams

unfortunately you may have a refurbished block that is stamped by the rebuilder to reflect their level of build/component install....

on relocation to the chassis they are no longer tied to the upper and lower control arms where they could only damped spring oscillation...now they can check body movement....at lower speeds and less aggressive driving you so not see their short coming when pinning the UCA and LCA..and back in the day said driving conditions was the norm....

it could be an indicator that you have some sort of restriction in the system prevent full return of fluid to the master and thus showing an indication of residual pressure. Suggest you visit your return passages in the master reservoir for free and clear, ensure your master has returned fully to the rear and against the stop to ensure no damage to a seal when checking for obstructions.

that x also throws a flag in my opinion....wish I could add more...most semi domestic and US built export was under the name FARGO does your truck still have its original firewall tag? and what is the engine number...this would shed some light also...given it is stock and that is what we trying to establish...

there are 9" and 10" caps in the poverty lineup....however the opening that is the retainer clip circle is the same on both...

I have had a few instances with my digital box camera where this has taken place...it is fairly rare but has happened..while cameras have orientation sensors...I think that on my case I was at a slight degree and the orientation was shifted and written at the angle when it should not have been...

This was always my understanding also...and I wear the same hat....I just read a bit of their policy..... https://www.facebook.com/privacy/explanation

the choke body is a solenoid in and of itself that is activated by a wire from the starter motor or at the motor relay contactor.....if you do not have a wire from the starter to the little electrical solenoid on the manifold.....test to see why...this could well be damaged or just left off because the last guy did not understand how it operated. Check the solenoid with a good VOM then test it electrically with a jumper...if all is well, set the unit up with the jumper and manually lock the position with the carb linkage....once that is confirmed....run you wire normal from the starter and go about starting your car proper procedure. These work excellent when set up and allowed to operate by the user.... ADDED NOTE......when connecting a wire the tab requires a rather short screw...you do not want to go through this tab and hit the manifold and cause a dead short...this may be why it was disconnected as the PO did not understand all of the proceedings.

I looked a bit at the below tutorial for setting up stealth....and other antisocial switches... https://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=1329503

the sissons choke has to be operated properly...you only get voltage to the solenoid when cranking and why it is important to depress the pedal when cranking and let up to set the choke as it will be able to overcome the stops of the choke and fully close. If you hit the gas pedal from there while starting or between starting you will again have to depress the pedal and release during cranking to over come the stops and again set the choke closed. Else it will default to a partial choke.

I believe some do this and other split the rim, weld in a section and true it back up which really alters offsets....all this is relatively expensive over purchasing wheels already made to X size...while the focus of this thread is using original caps and installing the clips to modern....modern wheels can easily be purchased but the trend starting in the 90's (some earlier) were really positive offsets as the bearing systems changed design at this time in the front hubs. Anyone seeking replacement wheels for these old cars will probably benefit from searching more for 89 and older mopar rear wheel drive wheels. These wheels have a slight positive offset also and often will need 1/4 to 3/8 spacer on the front when fitted with radials due to bulge may contact steering components. Some wheels have these additional 5 smaller holes already in place for attaching specialty caps of the era and will probably support the clips but you may need to be creative here to some degree

I agree Todd, I think I am the only family member not on FB also....I do however recognize that their marketplace is the go-to today....people are pretty much disgusted with the large portion of deadbeat craigslisters and my other local go-to is becoming less active with ads and more active with total flakes. I will often use the wife's account and search for few car parts now and then. I guess I may not fully understand the FB atmosphere but I do not want a large footprint in this social network.

you would have had to be there in person that rainy night, Hill Valley November 12, 1955

one more pic and I am done...folks standing by their ride...…..that is my son standing by my yellow Tiger...all I tell him is...in your dreams bubba....! left to right, Richie H.; Billy A.; yours truly; my son Travis A., late Don C.; Jerry and then Merle. Chris B. was off hiding somewhere I guess. This was the restart of Chris and Jerry on their US tour....they had to fly home due to illness in family and I stored his car in the barn till they returned.

these shoes are not your typical store bought game shoes...but actually as best possible 4 matched shoes from the draft horses from granddad's plow team. These be real horse shoes....! I have the other here for sissies and pantywaist types if needed.

I hosted a few in the past....then it seems most members moved away from the commute distance or sold their Mopars….and yes Merle was here......I enjoyed the get togethers...but playing host left little time to truly socialize and of course one of the events was a collective work party on the Coatney-mobile. This was the weekend the United States DEFEATED the Canadians in horseshoes...

later mopar rim of the 70's had the extra set of holes between mounting holes that may alloy you to attach clips....this is just a maybe....else look for a set of originals wheels and be sure you getting a solid set for your money and time to process them. You have few options with original poverty caps...

They represent a very unique line of car for Europe and were and actually still quite popular yet today. They can be expensive to find in turn key and still a modest investment in project form. I looked long and hard to find one and came across this one for a excellent price as a running model. It is in the queue is all I am going to say for now.....lol Pic as I found it and loaded it up.....The strap across the hood was redundant...as it hinges forward.....duh moment but par of a standard process I use when towing an unknown home....The Duett, wagon body based on this model is even a more rare and expensive adventure and a favorite of mine. I have two build ideas going on this and not sure which will win out......I vision this as a rear seat removed and inner structure welded in to make it a business coupe...it is as designed should easily transform to this build. I don't need no stinking family car.....

I looked back through the thread...what did I miss....someone thinking of hosting an east of the Mississloppy event?

13/2.0 Beta

she who must be obeyed.....this is short for "I am henpecked...." and only have visitation right...if you are still have ownership that could easy be changed to she who must blindly obey......?

nothing wrong with that statement at all....I respect all of it....I do like the vehicle....would make a nice gad-about

I was thinking maybe it was a Joey Chitwood stunt car in it's former life......I like that …...why you farming out the brakes and tune?

number of folks run this style with zero problems.....but I understand the need to please your wants...