Plymouthy Adams

close enough.....it is a picture of the work getting done while playing guessing games on the computer.....me....I am just in for cup of coffee......scouts honor..!! I have burned a number of weld rods already this morning and gone through two cut off blades on the RA....crawled under the car for a few measurement a couple times....

here is a good one.....

this winter...as of yesterday...it is SPRING

do a voltage drop test...could be as simple as dropping voltage also could be our starter is dragging.....if so........your current drain is great when starting and could therefore be depriving your ignition of the current it needs to generate a crisp spark...

I was making a cut in a bell housing to clear a high mount R&P on a retrofit....when I had the pieces off and laid on the table my minds eye saw a star wars type creature.....the bearing shells were on the table from when I was cleaning the crank and of course the bell after the cut...

be extremely careful...once the jamb nut is removed...it could still be so siezed that removing it is still a job...do not wiggle it much by the tube of and keep in mind that the very top of the bourdon tube is not a very strong bond either...

I feel very certain that the suspension and brake issues has been visited on this build....the only limiting factor is that 230 itself...

I was going to paste the phot but one alone exceeds the space allotted. Extremely busy under the hood.....

lay it down and make a handicap ramp out of it for your golden years.....

I use standard automotive primers..I usually mix my own (thinned primer/surfacer) For the topcoat, I have not applied that yet as it will be matching to my secondary color of my two tone theme and will be catalyzed enamel for the added wear characteristics...I have not shot any secondary color on this project...got plenty of small stay prepped and placed aside for when I do. Both my wheels are still in primer. The 1968 two spoker will probably be placed on the 54 split window Morris coupe along with the larger engine from the 68 model as I am placing a 300cc larger displacement that has 50% more HP in the '68 with a 5 speed with OD fifth and dumping the 4.55 for a 3.9 ratio. Got to get this baby set up with longer legs for the new modern highway....disc up front already mounted. But that is another story....

If you out and about at any swap meet or care to venture online sales sites...Motor manual are a great supplement to the factory repair manual....I just bought one this weekend for 1960 year which goes back to 1953 for specs. Well spend 5.00 for a book in excellent condition....just shop around a bit....Chilton's just don't make the grade in my opinion..

the factory service manual is the book most often quoted by me and if it is another book it will more than not be a Motors manual for the era. In you rings kit often the direction of orientation of the rings is pictured there...there is no illustration in the book...internet to the rescue....quick and easy search, read a few article look at the pics....whatever...just do not position them in line to each other and outside of the wrist pin boss opening... ring placement for piston with 4 grooves , sorry, I forgot to paste the link first time around...... https://search.yahoo.com/search?p=ring+placement+for+piston+with+4+grooves&fr=opensearch

folks at Mazda thought it was a tip off of the rotary engine being developed by Dodge and jumped on the bandwagon and well, you know the rest of the story....(the truth as distorted by Tim)

6 is symmetrical...….but maybe in dysfunctional way....?

books says.....010 to .020

Wheel repair gets time consuming but pays off big with finished look of the interior....while my recent build is not a Dodge truck it is a light utility vehicle with a commercial van box..the wheel on it is 12 - 4 - 8 and it is such that it did not interfere with gauges as they are centered to the dash....but with the personalization with added gauges and the fact that I care not for a spoke sticking straight up..(gun sight not needed)..I have positioned mine for 10-2 and 6. This was not that invasive of a fix as most I had to do was put another small index in the horn button to keep it aligned. Spoke position is a personal choice most of the time....in later years, they dropped the third spoke and stayed with two at approx. 8-4 positions...but the wheel is no longer banjo style. Banjo is my choice and is shown modified spoke position...I have since repaired the cracks and have it in primer awaiting time till I mix some catalyzed paint in the chosen color. I used PC-7 as my fill media...the one in the middle is the stock wheel I repaired earlier before a friend gave me a banjo wheel...it is shown in primer...

is that a typo? 10-2 and 9

the 61 Lancer is a smaller version in most all aspects as the 62 Dodge Dart/Polara...the "plucked chicken" if you will and 62 is the only year the Dart was a B-body.....not to be confused with the Plymouth line up....they a complete breed of ugly on their own.....but I like them yet....many many fun times driving around in a 61 Belvedere 318...these all are included in my dictionary of DARE TO BE DIFFERENT

there are a few offering weld on mounts....just got to shake them bushes....break out them cutting tools and welder...Crush sleeve is always a good idea..

I would like to find a Duett but my pockets are not deep enough for these......the Amazon 2 door wagon is also a nice car that dresses out spiffy.....models after the Amazon I am not drawn to but STILL a wagon does have that appeal....sucker for the long roofs...

there are three sizes....you shoul dnot have a problem getting one across the counter....while I cannot quote the number...the two smaller sizes share the same cup but one is wider cross the other is wider with larger cup....ASK to see the NEAPCO catalog..they were the developers of this if I recall correctly.

you be at home if you visited...61 Lancer sport coupe, 62 Lancer GT...2 62 Darts, 2 62 Polara and of course the PV544...I got ugly sewed up here in the south...sold the Stude a bit back...guy needed it more than his money....I was glad to make the trade....

gotta laugh at that comment.....you the one that seems to forget that this 544 is also that of the big fat fender are equal to our mopars in style....and it is said to be the 46 Ford in basic lines from the get go and to that end it shares a lot with big fender era. But at the same time you should give the Swedes credit for carrying this style in the late 60's if you can't see that then you more brand blind than most on here and I am the worst for being brand blind...are these old mopar cars in any manner stylish? Only to the degree a mother loves her offspring.....as we enter new design eras you now have styles and shapes to yet pick another favorite representing the changing times....I have a 1962 PV544 Sport here at the house.....I like a lot of cars...but hate GM with a PAP...how many times have you fallen off that skateboard?

OMG how quick we forget the Aztec....these old Mopars are nice but stylish is not a common descriptor, none of them really were for that era....and the Volvo just carried it through the mid 60's least we soon forget what bulbous styling was all about.....lol so if you think that is ugly...your modified cowl is out...else,...its an oversuzed 544

This is what a PV544 Roadster would look like given the cowl profile and longer hood...short deck and you can't fool me with those Ford alloys that are made in Italy for the compact spare......I got my eye on you......Actually as the Volvo PV544 share the 4.5 lug circle...I already have a set of these same wheels with the Ford name and number removed, centered and drilled, tapped to use the AR alloy center caps....