Plymouthy Adams

no....you will obviously find some slack due to wear...but it is a physical connection and turning backwards will do no damage if you go past your mark a bit and have to back back up, go far enough however that when you go forward..you will have taken the slack out of the chain and therefore turn the cam a tad which in turns pus your distributor on the money...

think about it....years ago we started off with our products being made in Japan, they grew rich and powerful and technologically superior in very short time ONLY to do what we did, farm it out o lower labor rates...I wonder down the road who will China farm their work out to......it is just a matter of time before that will happen with them....corporates being keyed on the max monetary returns.

here is one for the books...ordered genuine NGK plug wires.....read fine print lower left corner.....?

(If state offends you...change to state of choice...If redneck offends you....well...………………..) Two Tennessee rednecks are out hunting, and as they are walking along they come upon a huge hole in the ground. They approach it and are amazed by the size of it. The first hunter says, "Wow, that's some hole; I can't even see the bottom. I wonder how deep it is." The second hunter says, "I don't know, let's throw something down and listen and see how long it takes to hit bottom." The first hunter says, "There's this old pickup transmission here, give me a hand and we'll throw it in and see." So they pick it up and carry it over, and count one, and two and three, and throw it in the hole. As they stand there listening and looking over the edge, they hear a rustling in the brush behind them. They turn around to see a goat come crashing through the brush, run up to the hole and with no hesitation, jump in head first. While they are standing there looking at each other, looking in the hole and trying to figure out what that was all about, an old farmer walks up. "Say there," says the farmer, "you fellers didn't happen to see my goat around here anywhere, did you?" The first hunter says, "Funny you should ask, but we were just standing here a minute ago and a goat came running out of the bushes doin' about a hunert miles an hour and jumped headfirst into this hole here!" The old farmer said, "That's impossible. I had him chained to a transmission!"

I understand that if it is not leaking..this is your sign you need to add oil as it is empty.....?

got you....still, I would look anyway..nothing to lose but a minute of your time a bit of soap to wash up later...hey, you may get lucky here....check internal connections also especially the brush that connects to the case which is your only path to ground.

what would you look like if you were that close to the pipes for a x time......it got you home....be ye thankful.....

well....not even the right country.....but I will say it is a very advanced copy of an original engine licensed to the Japanese company by the English to build....so the roots are there... 30% increase in HP, I get the 5 speed full synchromesh and with the OD and new rear gear ratio....30% reduction in RPM verse stock.....two doors, bucket seats 5 on the floor...having fun with this build.

on the AVERAGE....only the very lowest bolt on the fender at the cowl gives issue as it is the one that seems to always have a certain degree of dust and dirt holding moisture. But as stated, that is my experience.....each person has to make the call for attack...they just need to know what options are available..... working solo I set my engine and tranny today...barely nicked the paint on front corner of oil pan....dang...touched up and you would never know it now.....

if you have a bud that can help removing the dog house in not that involved and will give you access lots of access and room to maneuver and also increase visibility to prevent accidents...

Jeff, carefully remove the back cover and inspect the oilite bushing for wear....they will go egg shape and when they do the armature will start to drag...this eats current like you read about and slows the motor....this will take but a minute to check and a few more to exact a repair.

the repair manual of old shows sitting the lower end of the car jack against the bead and jacking the car...this is beside the road old school stuff if you do not have a changer at home and care also not to carry them to a shop...

no pdf or other...follow your shop manual...it has all the info you need.....as a caution....DO CLEAN the block....machine shops are notorious for charging cleaning fee before machine work just to keep the shop tools and themselves clean during machine process....they rarely clean the block after the machining process and there will be all kinds of debris in and about the block.....happy wrenching...fun time...just buttoning up a rebuild here....

Charlie at Rustyhope has always been there for his customers...great support with his product...I recommend Charlie's kit based on the customer service statement. I have no first hand experience with other kits...

There are also some links on the forum if you use the search pertaining to some home grown front disc using common wrecking yard and or new OTC pieces....Am thinking these were Ford mini van series related. Use the search feature for a number of full install documented here....

hopefully the tag is still on the starter...begin by posting that and the particulars of your truck, year, model, engine etc....

does this look anything like a wheel puller for one of these old wooden spoke cars...…...found this cleaning up a building that had collapsed....rough check appears to be 2.5 x 16TPI

think most of the differences was in throttle control (governor) timing advance or in some case lack thereof and of course heavy trucks got sodium filled valves and positive rotators....

you can still find these on e-bay...just don't be sucked in by the one ads that tries to make this as a corvette only application and way way high retail.....the chrome on the two sets have taken a hit with exposure to the elsements….my units have the threaded angled backing plates and the wing nuts as shown in the photo above....that was just a quick pic I located on the internet to show the alternate style for the era.... try this link as opposed to the 60.00 other ads are listed at.....e-bay is your search buddy https://www.ebay.com/itm/1958-1962-Corvette-Windshield-Washer-Nozzle-Pair-NEW-58-59-60-61-62/252710108724?hash=item3ad6b23e34:g:clUAAOSwuQhb~EMu

there is a similar situation on the AACA forum addressing this......hope this will help you https://forums.aaca.org/topic/121596-removing-1927-dodge-rear-wheels/

it is and they are fewer of these compared to other nozzle mounts.....again with the Volvo but not to poke fun as before....I was amazed to see the same nozzles on that car that was on the 51 Plymouth Suburban when I got it....am sure the company made lots of washer kits for many cars back in the day...I believe these may be Trico generics fit all nozzles as marketed by them to the public as an add-on

Ulu, I have the answer to you dilemma....as you wanted to make a Plymouth look like a Volvo PV544 why not just take the PV544 grille and put it on the Chrylser so it will more closely match the radio grille.....just spit balling and....putting a lighter side twist to the thread....?

I would suggest you get out your VOM and test the contact for shorted together...linkage screwed up etc.....could even be they are fused.....

most all ground issues on components were direct connection to the body via the components mounting screws...light assemblies usually were a physical ground wire connection...AS AN ADDED NOTE....good clean physical connection at contact points and screw holes should be clean of rust and paint, use of star washer will go a long way in making a bite between ground and component and keep this connect longer...

Rock has a lot of stuff...I made a long list of engine parts for a rebuild...the killer was the shipping went off the wall as they filled the order from 5 warehouses. I went to e-bay and buy it now bid with shipping included and got name brand parts for just one dollar more than rock auto BEFORE they added shipping some 80.00 saved....the parts arrived in 3 days and the one item only rock had was 10 days arriving...not that I needed it that quick...just noting the difference. I use these folks a bit for some of the older foreign cars I have and they come through great...just got to watch large orders and multiple shipping point is all... at 20.00 bucks a pop and no shipping included...e-bay 50-55 is good ballpark figure.