Plymouthy Adams

Fire Engine Red......maybe?

hammer adjustments are a thing of the past....chainsaws is where its at today......Christopher is no longer with us...another member long gone...but this photo will live on as will he in this pic...it is a classic...

and your story/experience with powder coat is the number one reason I do not like it what so ever...when powder coat first hit the market and all the rage...some industries rush to accept this with open arms....only later to condemn it for the way it hides issues till you have some serious issues rearing its ugly head....and explain to me why do it at home kits requiring welding to install and finish the fabrication come powder coated...it had to get cut off...it is ruined in the process....just stupid stupid stupid...

I will operate this only in the light of a full moon and in times when the humidity is less than 74% am sure that will negate any galvanic effect of dissimilar metals...more concerned of the spilled brake fluid and it drawing moisture out of the air and rust my lift right before my eyes....washing it with cactus juice is paramount to good clean anti corrosive environment. ? As Tudor Turtle would always say, "help me Mr Wizard"

I think you right Rich, I recognized it as front end alignment tool...made a quick search and two out of two listing marked it as a tie rod adjusting tool.........I admit I have never used one....but I may have to get one now that I am about online with my alignment lift..

bad ethanol fuels can lead to sticky valves by gumming up the guides....more drastic in smaller engines but would not rule it out in any engine with low rate valve springs...

the great engineers at Chrysler back in the days of yore either had Ouija board or a crystal ball and foresaw the coming of unleaded fuel thus installing hardened seats into the flathead.....but the truth is, they were great at their job...

that appears to be a tie rod adjusting tool...

well our own Dodgeb4ya sent me a picture of a BendPak lift as delivered....light blend of sand mixed into the top coat...as this is what it looked like when I bought this lift...there was zero sign of any original finish on the runways or the approach ramps..... I also want to give him credit for the capture cable mod that contains the coiled air lines for the jacks neatly to the side of the ramp out of your way and keeps them safe from damage also....he also made a number of checks on his lift for me as I put this one together......big thanks to Rob....!!

sure glad your head prevented the ratchet from getting scraped up...hate to see tools damaged......? I am not sure I have slept beneath a car but have laid on my back looking at what I need to do when doing frame clips and what not for extended periods of time.....any time in the shop is better than time in front of the TV.....

both of these racks are readily available on e-bay....and if there, often as equally attainable through your local friendly big box store.....as stated earlier, finding them in wrecking yards is slim due to the fact most were recycled years ago...

thanks for the input Frankie, this sounds like the typical process......black diamond is a great blasting aggregate....I may have a bag of this on hand yet...but I am not sure of the grit....I have hundreds of pounds of bagged sand blasting silica sand on hand also and it is considered a 30 grit and would yield a fair texture....have read mixed reviews on the mix in paint then apply, apply paint, sprinkle with sand and recoat....would like to do this task but once.....learn from others and not so much as cause and effect...I have done textured inside coatings...am sure it is basically the same but using sand you dealing with weight and separation....using polymers they may stay suspended in the paint but they would in my opinion still provide a tad less "grip" effective finish and as I have no experience with the polymers....thus the question....what is most effective and long lasting media. How long has your coating been in place and does it see much use. Being on this lift I have rebuilt, I need a bit of non skid properties for sure and it will see a fair bit of traffic. I would think non skidding a shop floor has been done here by someone also which would be about the same thing.

Looking more for a coating and not a welded set of cleats as I wish to coat the entire length of the runways...these runways have 6 removable plates per runway....one is a slip plate and of course the approach ramps make it 7 for the overall coating needed....want to keep this neat and attractive along with practical for use.

I knew I would be eventually placing a top coat of paint either in matching color or contrasting semi-gloss black....I have so little resources in my area for finding additives. Seems the local carries but the one brand supplied by their default paint jobber (Valspar) and it is a polymer and not sand/pumice. I am thinking pumice would be the better ingredient but have not ever used it either. Wish to mix into Rustoleum oil based paint for application, anyone here with experience in anti skid additives? My alignment lift is smooth finish all about and as it was very much void of paint when I received it...I have no idea if or what may have been applied at one time. Pulling up onto the ramps with damp/wet tires causes traction loss. What have others here used and how has it held up? thanks....

that would be interesting to see....if you build this I for one would like to see your set up....

not trying to draw a comparison here but just to let you know, but, disneyland is a mickey mouse operation...

build it...the contents seem to amass as if by magic.....I just finished a 900 sq foot addition that was full before the ground was prepped for the concrete...

but every bit is somewhat important...this mod was made to utilized the rolling jack to lift the rear of an axle via the tube...cost was just under 2.50 in material....got to play with the lathe and the welder for this job...we know as shown they need stand so I show the stands also...

since when has a post, good or bad have to be justified....personally I think he was comment on the situation at large where makers were pointing a rosier picture of recharging station and that you just cannot go out and lift up a rock somewhere and plug it in...go out into some rural area off the beaten track and prove me wrong on this.

while 5 would be easier for some....to others it offers too many variables and would cause long delays in tire changing as they would sit trying to find a rational reason for which hole to place on the peg.....

this is pretty much on target...one would think any concern and care of the many years he has put into this business that saving these and passing them forward would be a concern over the retail verse crush returns and make them affordable to Joh Q. P. and benefit the hobby....but also true is the following, man could give a car to a guy and that guy would complain of the cost and time and most all the logistics of travel retrieval and such especially if they had to be moved by X date......they say a lady knows when to exit....well a man knows when to bail...I wish him the best and obviously he has served the hobby well over the years. Guess I am just tired of folks venting on what other folks should do with an old car or car part but in the end do nothing to save that part/car themselves....last check, they still his property.

Ed, take pop's station wagon....

Does your mixer have the tow bar and coupler for connecting to a trailer hitch....might be the difference in wheel size...this unit can be towed....I tow it only in the yard with the lawn tractor...if it goes to another site...it is in the trailer strapped down.

truck....what truck.....that was mixed at home by myself and my son...you can catch a glimpse of my mixer in this shot.....been around some 35+ years....still a lot of sand and gravel to lift into the hopper...each half is approx 19 loads....

and I thought 3 hours was rough doing this job.....I feel your pain.....