Plymouthy Adams

mine above is a repeat, seems few folks search the forums regardless of the fact it is quicker and easier to do with immediate results verse waiting to see if anyone cares to repeat themselves and even when given various means to address the situation, months later it often is readdressed.

If I recall correctly, either on as normal or facing the castle nut to the bearing the hole was off enough in either case the cotter pin would not effectively slip in either way. But is seems with each install, each installer faces or finds an issue contrary if only in minute detail to that of anther person. The above post was just a manner I corrected mine and just a suggestion this may work for you. Others have found their own respective cure and that sits well with me also. Same crazy cat carved with a different knife.

I addressed the issue quickly and easily in a manner that it can be done at home and also to suit me by just elongating the cotter pin hole by inserting a drill bit into the original hole holding it in place with the nut and drill another hole in front to that one using the inserted bit as a hardened pin to ensure/guide the bit ahead of the original hole. When the hole is drilled, removing the nut acts as a chip breaker. You can drill part way in from the top and then part way in from the bottom as the spindle may have a small center bore here that could cause for bit to wander and break, center punch if drill from below also. The key slot also sets up you left and right edges and prevent the bit from wandering. Then with a jeweler's file I dressed the hole to a slot.

that thing ain't got no eye balls................! I am reminded of the humpback Dodge panel every time I look at my Morris van

conclusion, two less GM cars cluttering the highway.......😄 Of course I joke as many folks have love for these cars and put time and money into them. In reality I think the floor pan and seat frames in a PT Cruiser have more metal by weight than the shell of my 48 Plymouth....every cut up a PT C. I have cut both and it like cutting a slice of steak with a hoe handle compared to cutting the old Plymouth.

if I recall the flywheel tooth count and the starter tooth count did not change till introduction of 12 volt......anyway, this would be the area to investigate.

some even know what soap is for.........going back to the heat of the shop now and continue cleaning......I am not making much headway and dragging my feet and that is no lie.....just to hot right now.....and it is cooler in the shop than outdoors, so working with the doors closed yet.

Most/many folks here have gone the extra mile to ensure their car bodies have been repaired to a reasonable facsimile of original format and while many older folks still do not support the seatbelt mandate.....it is still a proven restraint for passengers in light to moderate accidents. Many have installed belts from the internet with weakened and less than adequate displacers from the retailer upon questionable flooring/pillar mounts. Installing belts brings on the fact, if installed they must be used by law. If x age and older it is still optional to install unless you have a requirement to update from your insurance carrier. Nothing wrong with the owner updating....as for ejection seat for the little lady, perhaps a fold up kennel in the trunk will help you out there. The fact it may be just peace of mind of to continue the habit of buckling up in the old car is needed as part of operating a vehicle, don't know, I have installed belts in mine and have gone the extra mile to ensure the anchors are up to the task. 😃 I also understand you not having them in place. My 54 is still stock in this regard and likely to stay as such much for the same reasons you do not want to install belts. My 48, it is a high speed road machine, real cruiser, it has not only 3 point belts, but active air bag, just because I wanted to incorporate it into the build. This would be a deal breaker on many folks retrofitting a car.

I am going to think the TS is thread starter

likely looking at the kPa scale of the gauge....slight over 15 inches of vacuum

often these pieces are handed as the angle for tucking at the fender lip etc. does the other side fit proper on the door?

I bought one set of three points from the internet....for a small foreign car.....they ok....but I am just as likely to swap these out later when fall and cooler temps arrive and I can walk the wrecking yard for higher quality units.

sounds like you already have broken something, maybe two somethings....check your wiring schematic against the color code and connection point to the switch, just saying a wire is loose is vague at best.

did you even bother to do a search on the web........got to be proactive in the hobby to get anywhere...👍

there are some very basic heater cores you can find on e-bay nice cost...these are not really exotic in design just know dimension here is the killer. So, I would like to suggest a visit to local big box store, talk to someone about looking through the basic Four Seasons book and knowing ahead of time the base dimensions of your existing, likely you can find a substitute. Order from them or now knowing the specs and application, spread your search out for the better deal. The Four Season book is a great resource.

if you do not have the users manual for your meter, often they are located online and easy to download.

something tells me you are having issues with your meter and or other selector switch or probe position......be sure you are position you probes into the correct hole for measurements you are wishing to make.

the page on the thermostatic sender has been posted on page one of this thread some time last year.....these truths have been in practice since the inception of this gauge in 1936 if not earlier. This gauge was common across Mopar till the end of the 48 build year which happened to continue making same models into the 49 model year and thus defined as yet another series and this later series 48/early 49 started the use of the later gauges and sender as found in a true 49 series...it was then the other single post sender came about with the single wire gauge. Tanks Inc. does not sell the correct sender, further, the sender shown on DCM website will not work with the thermostatic gauge either as you NEED to drive each ple of the gauge from the divided resistance of the wiper to each leg. Very few 1948 will have the single wire sender and guage....this is the gray period. You will need a NOS style sender.....these are available on e-bay and rather good price might I add as I just looked. Dropping a tank may be a needed step here as you state, but worth it to have something done right in my opinion after a year of banging your head it would be the best step you could take.

The universal 0-30 sender on their website will not work with the thermostatic two wire gauge.....ohms rating on sender.....30 ohms across 1 and 2 or A and B whichever way it is marked...wiper takes and will split this resistance to ground each leg depending on position of float lever and for good ground......if wiper closer to one leg is 10 ohms the other 20 is on the other leg. Try and use the single wire sender on a stock two wire thermostatic will result in error readings. You will have to go forward and pick up a later single wire gauge....then your sender still will not work will be wrong range. While apples and oranges make fruit drink....no so much in these gauges. Tanks Inc is thinking the later 50's and up style gauge.....they have never grasped the concept per everything posted by buyer of their products, the thermostatic gauge and how it works. So unless you sender has two wires for voltage and maybe a third for ground....you are dead in the water. Again, each end of the resistance unit MUST connect independent of ground and be able to connect to the wires from the gauge. Read your repair manual, if you do not have a manual perhaps buy one. Your refusal to accept the fact they sold you the wrong sender is why it has been a year and still not resolved. IF you wish to use their sender, you will need to buy a gauge to match the operational aspect.

my 54 Plymouth stock adjusters were not an issue....but as Sniper states.....your's could very well be different.

it the sender is not dual tapped, ie. each end of the 30 ohms coil with the wiper tracking both ends to ground simultaneously, it will never read correct....your gauge if stock must be pulled in both directions at the same time...

business coupe eliminated that completely 😄.......the quarter light (vent windows) unless they changed their mold, Steele is horrible look and fit, not near original at all. I offered Steele a set of nice though age hardened rubber for correct profile right down to the part number very much like new showing the part number and everything and their answer is we have a working model and no one is complaining.....I said hello, what is this but a complaint, what you have is a rendition and no one at Steele is listening to the customer and their answer was, you should not have bought a Mopar.....really, this is how you respect your customer. They could go tits up and I would likely dance in the street.

for sure go with what your gut says is best.....many companies do not offer the correct durometer rubber....that is very critical when fitting hinged body panels. Not much you can do with stiff rubber that will not relax or deflect with pressure. I feel your pain as you are in Scotland and have little chance of inspecting an item prior to purchase. I found a number of rubber products for the last British car I built very much the same scenario, wrong durometer and literally tossed these in the trash and was a task finding generic rubber that did do a much better job overall. Sad part was the time spent with the brake making channels for the seals I ordered and welding this onto the doors on to not be able to use the channels or the rubber. Unfortunately, this has a high probability of happening on any build no matter who is selling reproduction parts.

The ones I got long back were 'vulcanized' to they were spock on fit. (ah come on, not that bad a joke) Drop them an e-mail. Good people, been to their shop twice in person but that was years ago.

then belay my last and soldier forth