Plymouthy Adams

a VOM will tell you all you need to know of the relay......do you have one, they are indispensable for electrical work.

get something heavy enough for the task....6 of these available at the minute (3 sets of 2) Pair of 2 Amish forged black wrought iron wall J hooks metal 1 7/16" tall x1 1/4 | eBay

I remember cutting the donor firewall down to the proper size to fit the 48 and STILL be able to use all the components of the donor including the AC, suspension grafted to the original frame, steering column, ABS brakes etc.....you pictures bring back lots of memories.

from the image I saw of the rust and corrosion it is no surprise that you are experiencing issue with voltage and grounds.

I believe they have comingled two style of lamps on this thread now.....

did you remove the bulb to see if you can find the number that is usually on the backside of the bulb....the 4 5/8 is typical to Guide and often even can be located at tractor supply for a clear driving light or red for stop....yellow not so common at the tractor places.

unit is marked on the glass as a sealed beam..you will replace the burn out unit with a new unit...

is your manual the one published originally by Chrysler? Chilton's usually don't cut it...a Motors of the era however is often beneficial to have on hand. The factory service manual is in reprint and not a bad cost overall.

lost compression but did you read each cylinder......did you do a dry and then a wet test.....as for the valves, could be they moving up and down but still not closing....the removal of the head would be most beneficial in reading the worthiness of the engine.

I serious doubt any rear axle will be large enough of a carrier housing to allow a tooth count that great in number for the strength needed for the rear axle...size would be HUGE....and teeth count in a fine mesh to fit the housing, rip out on the first dump of the clutch. IF you continue with the metric system and circumference of the gears...big circle into little circle., this is what I think is going on here....the tooth count is missing and only diameter is being used.

while specs say it will turn as small as a 6" drum...I believe it...these are 7" for my Morris Minor rear brakes and are the better factory MOWOG brand. I cleaned these up today and am pleased. I upgraded to MG Midget front discs and did away with the factory 8" drums.

Hard to beat a gantry crane, I built this from some metal at the wrecking yard that was less than 50.00, the upright metal were already on hand as was the chain fall and the trolly....need and use....not as much as one would think but it was a most fun project if nothing else. With nuts bolts paint and couple chunks of metal from the falloff bin at the machine shop, little at home welding...think total outlay less that 100.00 The casters I removed at no cost from a tossed industrial item long ago. Pays to save some items for the future.

I did this with my first conversion to V8 and automatic....running dual exhaust and crossover tube.....single pull using stock handle and cable...rest is home grown. The pulleys for the cables are also ball bearing type to ease in the pull....works great.

surely the seller can answer that question for you.....

personally I prefer the later model Dakota single pull on the drivers side of the chassis and the combo engagement lever that then splits to each wheel at the rear. Cleaner setup with less likelihood of exhaust interference when running cables especially if you wish to run dual exhaust.