Plymouthy Adams

nothing at all wrong with a bit of coffee and caramel...given the coffee is fresh and hot and the caramel a tad soft...good color combo

first get your schematic for the year and model, your test meter and troubleshoot the problem......with wiring askew it would be impossible for anyone here to state your problem with certainty. Can you by-pass points of contact, make other changes...of course you can, but unless you annotate these running changes on a drawing for prosperity, you should not.

many companies, Vintage Glass for one, will offer you a complete glazing package at a good cost. Usually at larger swap meets these companies will give you a bit more discount as they are in place and dealing volume sales. Buy a pane here or there will eat your wallet and your brain.

original, original second hand, hand cut safety glass from NAG patterns or even tinted and tempered glass....your choice....all do the same thing....only you have to be happy with it.

to new an engine........they ban what they don't understand I would guess.....NOT TRUE but they do have a cut off date...

the manner the fuzzies attach to the door,,,,only need to rivet the lock tab onto the one that fastens lower rear channel inside the door....at the top, there are two clips use just to prevent sag. The front is a different rubber, cut a tad long each end and cut to bend over the channel and lock in place....that is it...nothing else. NOW the glass anti rattle strip, they are easily affixed with other style clips readily available but to the tune of slight drilling of the original v-clip holes. but is so easy to do....snap in place, snap out if needed if you have to service the glass or regulator. To rivet the anti rattles would be a pain I would think to work later if needed.

will point not confirm...confirm with an amp meter in series....if very low draw use milliamp scale......quit guessing and get it right. Odds are you may well have a voltage drop or bad rear bush in the starter...these will seriously impair a system and or drain a battery flat in short order. Again, easy tests to do and KNOW not GUESS

Call restoration specialties or be sure you have at least looked at their online catalog....fuzzies are so easy to pick out by dimension and application..ie rigid versus flex. These are about as simple as it can get...with the divider post being your challenge. IF you call them about now likely the techs are out on the car swap meet circuit but they should on request give you the contact number for them in the field. These folks have all but bent over backwards for every customer with a question.

for the most part these older Mopar doors have a fuzzy and as Brit term Bailey rubber that is the channel for the glass to ride and prevent rattle and scoring of the glass edge. Whereas the mopar fuzzy has a riveted clip that locks the fuzzy onto the frame via a clip at the doors rear and will come out and up and around to the division post where a couple of metal clips will attach to the fuzzy and in turn will slip into slots at the top of door metal opening. This will prevent the fuzzy from falling down as the door bezel with retain the fuzzy itself. The lower forward channel that is below grade of the window opening has a different fuzzy to fit that channel that will be longer than the metal channel it will affix on either end so the one side and back of the fuzzy will be cut so the fuzzy will fold over and lock into place each end. Now that leaves the division bar to be addressed with its own L shaped fuzzy that NO ONE MAKES A QUALITY piece that works and one is often left to their own devices to fabricate. Don't believe the lies the seller has for MINE FIT....it is BS....I made my own and it was not fun....first off, you must be able the make your own metal L to affix flocking onto....then you must come up with your own flocking or method to harvest and transfer flocking. I will leave you on your own for this.....and you can use that what is supplied but it WILL NOT fasten as per factory...

embrace the electronics and or the total battery job....it is max power for sure compared to anything carburated....too many folks still clinging to old school when there no real rhyme or reason to forgo the advantage of the modern drivetrain except to say...I refuse to go modern. I admit the cost of some stand alone harnesses put some of this out of range and many do not like the fact that you need a good interrogator to troubleshoot and that prevents them from embracing the new. And face it, if the makers get their way, you will not be able to even interrogate your own cars in the future.....many forward of 2018 tie your hands now. But we have a number of good years out there that you can choose from yet and still be very capable with economy and HP at the same time. I have 3 more cubic inches over stock engine in my 48 and same number of cylinders and well over double the HP with two extra gears and a way way better final ratio and a ton of features that make drivability a pleasure. Bigger and better brakes, ABS technology, fully active air bag restraint and list goes on including utilizing the entire donor vehicle heating and air conditioning and power rack and pinion steering, something all would come to appreciate and enjoy. Now many state they like the way the old cars ride and the old engines respond...I can understand that, however, many take that stance due to not understanding the modern technology or not motivated to get that deep into a build over buy and bolt repairs. A full retrofit is not that difficult to do but again, you only limited to your lack of imagination and motivation. Again, this is not for everyone, you need not only the tools, time, and space, but skill sets also along with the drive to say failure is not acceptable. Cost to do stock rebuild over the modern swap is the swap is less money but for sure more invasive. For many I know cutting a car is unspeakable but then many buy cars that have no engines and transmissions just to make it call so easy as nothing to weight against the new verse old. Anyway, room for all, have fun either way. I am in the planning now for another retro build but this time a couple extra cylinders and barely over into the next decade of old mopar.

hey...that chicken in the picture.......regular recipe or extra crispy????????????

most of this stuff is bought in lengths and you cut to fit, likelihood of finding them ready to pop in...might be a bit to ask for...but will not say it would be impossible....just not likely

Restoration Specialties out of PA....they pretty knowledgeable and will guide you if you are not up to speed on sizes...all this stuff is made by one company only and sold by many...however, not that many are up to speed on specs and apps.

sounds like some spoiled rotten chickens

got to say this first off...never seen a two story chicken coop before....now I do know chicken coops with floors, windows even....next thing you know, a widows walk, coop with a cupola....I'll quit now.