RobertKB

I have been a member of this great forum for 18 years. Unfortunately, as stated, I must leave. In fact, I ask the forum administrator to remove me as a member. I’m sure he will anyway as this is a highly political statement not allowed on the forum. I leave because I cannot understand how any self-respecting democratic country can elect Trump, a vile human being with so many disgusting qualities. A majority will disagree with me and to those who don’t, I wish you good luck in the storm ahead. You will need it.

The shop manual tells you exactly how to do this.

I have a D25 also. Those rubber boots kinda work but deteriorate. Best to take the strip off, use some clear silicone and replace the strip. Make sure you have lots of sealer where the tabs go through. My car lives inside and I only get water in the spark plug wells when I wash it. I just run it for a bit and they dry quickly.

When I rebuilt my engine, I drove it hard right from the start. Drive it like you stole it to seat the rings. Babying a new engine is not good. I don’t mean drive it like a NASCAR but don’t be afraid to rev a bit, back off, and then hit the gas again. I have no leaks anywhere and great compression within 600 miles.

Surely some forum member has got a spare filler cup on an old generator only good for parts. The filler cup is a pressed fit. Could be sent to Germany in an envelope for cheap. I’m going to check my supply but not sure if I have one or not.

That’s a generator, not an alternator. There’s a hole near the very back of the generator. It should have an oil filler (nipple) like the one at the front.

Most head bolts go into the water jacket. You will need to use some kind of thread sealant on them.

I was looking at some of my old parts I bought at a swapmeet a long time past. This fuel pump was from Macleods that went out of business decades ago. I probably paid more than the sticker price at the swapmeet. Sure would be nice to buy a brand new fuel pump today for Canadian $3.99! 😊 I’m guessing this is from the ‘60's. Lots of suction and would probably work for a while until the modern gas killed the diaphragm.

Copper brake lines are a no-no. Certainly not factory.

Your children are Genetically Modified? 🤪

Many, many years ago I had bad compression in #6 cylinder at 72,000 miles. Pulled the head and could see a burnt intake valve. Pulled oil pan. Slight ridge at top of cylinders. Removed with ridge reamer. Took caps off connecting rods. Pushed pistons out the top after putting rubber tubing over rod bolts to avoid crank damage. Cleaned up pistons and installed new rings. Honed cylinders with cloths over the crank. Lapped all other valves after replacing the burnt one. Plastic gauged rod bearings which were right in the middle of factory specs so they were re-used. Reinstalled pistons and buttoned everything up. No need to remove crank if no obvious damage. Many years and 30,000 miles later car still runs perfectly. It idles so smoothly, I sometimes think it has quit running. SO…….you can do a quick and cheap refresh and get many miles out of it. This winter I replaced water pump and fuel pump to keep the old girl going. Even threw a little paint on the engine to spruce up the appearance. Compression down some now but no smoking and it runs great. Car is a survivor including original paint.

All I can say is better you than me! I woulda snapped that in a heartbeat. Then I woulda have to rent another garage to make room for the woodie. That looks like a really solid car that a bit of TLC will make spectacular! Congrats!!

This is a job for a glass shop. Bite the bullet and remove the mirror. I’ve had several mirrors where a glass shop cut a new mirror and installed. Easier to fix the looseness issue too with the mirror off.

Definitely very professional work! Everything looks great!

Good job on the windshield! The back window can be a b****r! A glass shop did mine when I replaced the headliner years ago.