greg g

,y limited experience, when hood lines came down the casting below the carb got shorter. At least in cars. I have one from a 56, the chamber under the carb is inch deep, the one from my 46 is as deep as the one shown or a bit more, a 1954 I sold, split the differce. If you look at the various after market dual intake they seem to all have eliminated that depth completely. When I installed my Fenton, I put 1 inch thick phenolic spacers between carbs and manifold. Without the spacers, my throttle linkage angles were wonky. The truck linkage is different, so not familiar with how it hooks up. As for performance who knows. Seems the shorter distances between direction changes would flow better. But on these engines it probably doesn't make much difference. With Chrysler Corp being frugal as they were, I would imagine that the one that fit under the car hood in 54 also went in the trucks of that year or series.

Tim, thanks for the effort put in to find Arthur's final arrangements. rip KNUCKLE. my wife and I will be 76 this fall and have talked about prearranging our funerals, wonder if GTK could set up a link where stuff could be posted by funeral homes to let our friends and acquaintances here know we have taken our last trips.

Lars corporation, looks like you can get re maned through o riellies if they do the old stuff.

I ran across a concern that did rebuilds. I AM pretty sure I booked marked the. I will look for and post a link if I can find it.

Plymouths are Special, Fords claim to be super...

Anti freeze does not do heat transfer with out water. Water cools much better than antifreeze, but doesn't provide for corrosion protection. I have been running a 70 water 30 AF for 20 years. Car doesn't go out in winter and garage doesn't get below 30 degrees. No issues. No discussion of cooling issues should be made until the how hot is hot? The gauge could be off by a good amount so verify your actual Temps so we know where to start. These older systems are ment to see their working level. If you keep refilling the amount the system is burping out, you are chasing your tail. So verify your coolant Temps, and level. An inch above the fins is sufficient. If you do not operate below 20 degrees, mix your coolant to water accordingly . Remember your boiling temp goes up with coolant is used so 212 is not your limit. Under hood and radiator Temps will go up after shut down cuz you cut off the air flow.

You dash looks absolutely marvelous. We have a fellow here with a 41 Chrystler sedan. The car has 32k miles and is original. He is the second owner and the dash is intact. Car was stored inside all its years so no sun exposure. Car was owned by the pastor of one of the local churches. His has a similar pattern to your's, but it is red in color, with the high lights in cream. The car is white with the highlander plaid in red. I posted some pics of it here a few years back. Don't know if they are still searchable.

Yep, cuz the gasket seals the coolant in its system. The sealant keeps coolant from between the bolts and block, keeping corrosion from seizing the bolts to the casting. If you have head bolts weeping coolant, it's a gasket problem,

Thanks for the quick response.

Not an electrical whiz but didn't the old tube type radios require high voltage AC to operate? Isn't that where the hmmmmm came from as all the tubes warmed up? Most were referred to as a vibrators whose osolations chopped up the DC to mimic AC. Could that be its purpose? Or it could be an impedence coil that generated power for the Buck Roger's cosmic beam weapon that fired from your hood ornament? Have you jumped the coil from the battery to see what you get? Assume you have verified the dist is rotating and rotor is in place. Could it be one of those J C Whitney's 50 mpg spark intensifiers that they hawked on the inside cover of thier catalogs the 50s? .

To check charging system, make a jumper wire of 12 gauge wire about 6ft long with an alligator clip on both ends. Start the car and raise the idle speed with the hand throttle if present or by the carb adjustment screw. Rpm should be around 1000. Use the jumper wire to temporarily ground the field terminal (smaller of the two gen terminals). The Amp gauge should peg to full charge. If yes generator is OK, fault probably in voltage reg. If no, fault is with generator. If VR is suspected, remove VR cover, clean points and retest. Keep in mind, if your battery is at full charge, it's the VR job to cut out the field so as not to over charge the battery. If your battery tray was destroyed from acid boiling out, that's an indication that the VR was not doing its job properly. Remember to disconnect the jumper wire after checking amp gauge, and return idle to 500 rpm. Hope it works for you.

There is a very active group of Chrysler Corp cars in England. Robin Weathersby on this forum organizes couple events for the group. If he doesn't chime in to this thread, send him a PM. Welcome aboard, good luck with your project. Is the hood a 2 piece fold toward the center, or a the fire wall mounted assembly that opens from the front?Post up some pictures of what you are dealing with.

there were 3 forum members woody wagon owners a few years back. A couple in Indianapolis, a fellow near Baltimore, and a fellow near Winchester VA. The VA car was sold, the fellow in Baltimore doesn't participate on the forum any longer. The Indiana car is still owned and operated by the same folks.

Geese, you got lights, ignition, heater fan and horns! What more do you need? Some late 48 early 49s supposedly had a 30 amp self resetting circuit breaker mounted to the inside of the fire wall. My 46 has only the one fuse. You can pull some of the load by re-powering the brake light through a dedicated inline fused wire from the battery side solenoid terminal to the hydraulic brake switch. What items do you want to add? Would they be wired hot with ignition on or hot with ign off?

There are a couple other changes that can improve performance. Milling the head to increase compression ratio. You want to be in the 8.5 to 9.5 to one area this improves throttle response and horsepower, while still running 87 octane. Grinding the intake and exhaust ports to match the gaskets, and lightening the flywheel. Completes mods that are inexpensive and have a big seat of the pants dyno feel. I believe I had my head done for less than 50 bucks but that was in 2007 or so. I did the port grinding here. No need to look for a mirrored finish. Roughness adds to intake swirl which creates more well mixed air fuel charge. My machinest told me that some exhaust back pressure is a positive thing so free flow mufflers and a couple bends are bennificial. The result is an engine that will pull most area hills in Overdrive even with a full fuel tank and trunk packed with travel stuff. One item for more consideration is gas line material. Looks like yours are copper. Copper has a tendency to get brittle when exposed to vibration, this can cause splits to develop . That new nickel steel brake line is easy to work and resistant to work hardening.

Hard to watch but real test lab results. Your belief systems may be challenged.

After cleaning and re oiling with light machine oil, I would think a bit of a wheel bearing grease thumbed into the hole would be sufficient to keep contaminants out. 2x times service per year should keep things in good shape for a non daily driver application.

Check thedown loads or technical sections. Both should be searchable by "rack and pinion".

First thing I would check is the connection of the rimary battery cable to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Corrosion on any of those connectors can cause a bunch of faults especially with ignition off accessories. Next check that the ground cable condition and connections. Don't know how the Chrysler is wired but head lights, brake IIght, dome light, courtesy/glove box light trunk lamp should all work with ignition switched off. Some horns are wired this way, some need switch on to sound. This terminal is where most of the cars electrical items get power. Next the connections to and from the Ammeter. Does turning the switch to the acc position power any thing up? Not impossible for internal switch contacts to get corroded in storage and not work as they should. Spray some electrical cleaner into the key slot and then cycle key in, rotate switch, remove key, repeat... cover your carpet so cleaner doesn't stain it. Had a car years ago that was having electrical issues. Turned out to be a stuck switch for the glove box light. As it was high summer and not doing much night driving, I didn't notice it till it started getting dark earlier and I saw light leaking past the door when I shut the car off. Electrical gremlins can drive a body nuts. Good luck.

First welcome, 2nd, you are still under the become a new member section of the site So go to browse forums select p15 d24 and start a new thread. Third, take quik trip to allpar.com search transmissions, look under the fluid drive section, there might be info there can use to help ID. If not you can read up on the units, and their operation and care and feeding. Hope you have an answersoon. Typically there was an m5 used from 41 till 46 ish and the m6 which took over till 49 ish till fully auto trans was introduced in 55.

Thanx. My screen was not showing the "go to in box" button in landscape orientation. Found it when I rotated tablet to portrait format.

Getting pop up telling me my inbox is full and I need to empty it before I can send new PM. OK, HOW.?

Liner is plastic. Exterior is metal. If you asked me where it is, I would right now just be guessing. The green plaid cooler was sent along to Mark Duggan.

Here is a pic of my hardware store and go kart heim joints linkage for carter b1b one a vintage Fenton manifold. Stock bellcrank to fabricated pivot uprights secured by jam nuts. Going on 15 years. Nop, it ain't pretty, but it's pretty effective.

Out with some friends, under the bonnet, ready for the weekend.