greg g

Welcome to the forum. When you get to the point of needing parts shipped over look up rdusaclassics.com. One partner in US (splits his time between Massachusetts and North Carolinna) and the other is in Rotterdam. Check out their website. They ship vehicles and parts by container several times a year, so if you can get to Rotterdam they maybe able to assist with your project. Mark is a member of this site, when he is in Massachusetts, he is about 15 minutes away from Burnbaum parts, and Roberts Motor parts also. Both of those vendors have online catalogs. Check out thier stuff. Vintage Power Wagons is also a good source for mechanical parts. Hope your Dodge arrives safely.

Thanksgiving wishes to you and yours. My Mopar will get a bath, 5gallons of non eth, some stabilizer, get hooked to the battery tender, and get snuggled under its cover for the winter. Garage will get several d con feeders. Got some really stinky fabric softener sheets from dollar tree. Don't know if they work but for a buck and a quarter why not? Only put 1500 miles on this year so am on the fence about doing an oil change now or in the spring.

I didn't go through all the posts. Did you ever pop the hood after dark? If you see a light show that might give you some direction. Before I put my Tractor Supply wires on, I had sparks arcing between wires, down the sides of spark plugs and within the loom tubes, and down the outside of the distributor cap.

The vacuum gauge is attached to the intake manifold. My car has vacuum windshield wiper so it's easy to attach the gauge there. If you have electrical wipers, you might need to drill a hole in the intake thread it, then use a brass fitting to attach the gauge. Then you'll need to get a suitable threaded plug to screw into the hole to seal it up after testing. As for tweaking the distributor, clockwise retards timing, anti clockwise advances. Normally retarding lessens ping, knock, or pre ignition, or what ever the noise is call in your area. Go to SECONDCHANCEGARAGE.COM their website has a section detailing how to perform the vacuum test, and an animated chart explaining what the various gauge readings indicate. Just wondering, have you done the simple test to see if there are vacuum leaks at the carb base and intake to block sealing areas?

Several years ago, some one brought a bunch if crate engines to the US. They were reported to be Isreal Defense Force rebuilt engines declared surplus when they retired their old Dodge powered vehicles like weapens carriers, ambulances, etc. If I remember Vintage Power Wagons had a few. Wonder if these are French Military stuff? Chrysler was involved with Simca through the early 70s. Simca provided quite a few light and medium duty vehicle types to French military.

Did the vacuum gauge timing process as I have decked my block (,010)and milled my head (.040) for more compression. After I did the preliminary set, the timing light showed 6 degrees before TDC at idle. Real life had some ping climbing long grades. Rolled (retarded) it back to about 3 degrees,BTDC. Idle pulls 19 inches at apx.600rpm, ping is gone. My vacuum is lower than factory due to dual intake. Should be 20 to 22 inches with single intake, assuming a healthy engine. This on 87 with ethanol.

Wow! Congratulations and thank you for hosting this community. We too have interacted and met several of this group's members. Several of whom have turned into some very good and important friends. And I know I have saved lots of time and money keeping my car on the road through the expertise and advice of other members. I believe I joined originally in 2001 or 2002 in what was the 2nd iteration of the forum. Back when many contributorswere still on dial up modems, and we needed to warn them that pictures were attached, so they wouldn't time out before the page got half opened. Ah yes, the good old days..... Thanks again to you and the moderators for doing whatever needs to be done to keep the door open and the lights on.

OK, while I appreciate your point, I notice your location is Florida. I live just outside the snowiest city in the lower 48. I believe I know how good defroster function when I see it. The model 36 heater in my 46 coupe is not the model to follow. I have relatives who come up for the holidays who drive around in rental cars and complain that the windows are all steamed up all the time. I tell them to push this button so the light is off when driving. Please take this in the manner it was intended.

The heater in our coupe will drive you out of the car. It has the manual flaps directing the air out, toward the foot wells, even with the 170 degree op temp, it does a good job. On defrost, not so much. It just blows the moist interior air back onto the windshield. You need to open the cowl vent to get any defrost. Which is kind of self defeating.

My machinist told me that his rule of thumb for sustained cruising engine speed for these long stroke engines was to be at 80 to 85 percent of factory hp rpm. So you can put your details for rear end ratio, and tire diameter into one of those on line calculators and see where your engine sits. I have 4.11 with 225r75 15 tires. This comes to 3280 rpm at indicated 65 (63 on GPS). Engaging overdrive pulls out around 900 rpm, putting it at about 2400 rpm. Compared to modern short stroke engines geared to go 70 just off idle, I would say these old flat heads are the high rpm engines.

Sounds like me in the morning. Have you verified the operation of your vacuum advance? Is the distributor hooked up to the correct vacuum source? Did you do a vacuum gauge reading? Did you verify proper fuel quantity test as outlined in the service manual? What do the spark plugs look like? What spark plugs are installed. Are your spark plug wires in good condition. Is the step up jet in the carb working as it should?

Slant 6 is a long engine. I would do some serious measuring before proceeding. The /6 forum might be a good spot to do some lo9king for similar swaps. Also the Inliners website might also provide insight.

Measure the stroke. There is a pipe plug screwed into the head above #6 cylinder. Remove the plug,insert a piece of stiff wire about 7 inches long into the hole through the head . You might need to dislodge some carbon, but once it's in it will contact the piston. Remove the spark plugs, turn the engine over by hand. The movement of the wire will yield the stroke length. 4 3/8 = 218, 4 5/8 = 230

Much too fancy to take yer pigs to market. Maybe put couple crates in the back for hauling hounds to run some possums, but definitely a smart bit of kit. Parts chaser for Adams' Archiac Auto Emporium

To just get it running you need two wires. A switched lead from battery negative to coil negative and a jumper from battery negative to the small post on the solenoid. Connect the coil. Toggle switch to off to stop engine after starts, crank engine by touching jumper wire to solenoid to engage starter. Be aware jumper is hot when you set aside from cranking the starter. Yes there may be sparks at the solenoid terminal. Use at least 12 gauge for the solenoid jumper.

With a body on frame vehicle YOU DO NOT WANT BELTS ANCHORED TO THE FRAME. You don't want to be tied to the frame while the body pulls away from its base.

Change your camera setting to a lower pixel count. You don't need Hi Def pics to post up here.

Unless the king pins were completely ignored for thier whole existence, they should be serviceable. There are upwards of 18 grease fittings associated with steering parts. Find them and get fresh grease into them. New zeroks and heat maybe necessary to get the old hardened grease out. This is especially true with the king pin pivot points. My 46 has 118000 miles on its original king pins. They get greased every year. It is good practice to cycle the steering from lock to lock while servicing the grease fittings and applying heat. If you need to replace the kingpins, I believe the new ones are oversized and the bushings need to be reamed to fit the oversize plus the grease tolerance. This procedure would probably require a specialist with old school tools. If you need to go that route look for a place that works on medium duty trucks, construction and or farm equipment.

Check the main ground cable. If the starter was painted during its servicing, remove it and assure paint is removed from the mounting points. With your meter compare voltage across the battery terminals on fully charged battery. Now check the voltage from the negative terminal to a head bolt. If the voltage is lower at the headbolt is lower than the reading between the battery terminals your ground cable is suspect.

Time to learn the art of hot wiring your car. First we need pictures of what is there. Need to see the starter, and cables and wires attached. Does the battery cable (should be a thick one, about 2x the thickness of a modern 12volt cable) attach directly to a thick terminal, or is it connected to a solenoid? When you got the starter from the shop, did they bench test it, so you could hear and see it work? Typical solenoid

Your car should have a foot operated starter. Has it been switched to the button operated solenoid from a later car? Was the starter switced also? c

Does the coil get hot? Points clean and gapped? Carb to intake nice and snug. Throttle cable bound up, choke fully open? Does pulling the choke closed a bit effect the symptom? Carb to manifold clear of any wetness? Voltage to coil proper and steady?

Been running a universal 6 cylinder set of copper cores from Tractor Supply. Been in there since 2002 and 50k miles. Still nice and pliable, boots on both ends still good. No light show after dark. They were 20 bucks 20 years ago.

I think the ads take a while before they actually go up. Moderator review maybe?

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/670.cfm#:~:text=Too little dwell and the,are symptoms of incorrect dwell.