greg g

We had a 64 2door. Six three speed. Fairlane 500. Burgundymetallic, tan interior. Bought in 67 with 32000 miles. For 500 cash Drove it for 2 years and put another 30k on it. Because it was a stick shift, we traded it when I went into Army basic training. We bought a 66 Mustang 2+2 289 automatic, the dealer allowed us 895.00 in trade for the Fairlane against the 1375.00 on the mustang. We financed the balance for 2 years. If I remember our payment was 23 bucks a month. We drove the Mustang till 72 when I sold it to my brother in law for 650.00. This meant we drove the Fairlane for free for the 2 years, with all the transactions and no expenses other than gas and oil and front swaybar bushings both those Fords were the best car deals I ever made except for getting my P15 for 225 bucks.

This specifically mentions, push rods, performance camshafts, high pressure valve springs, my car has none of these things. In all of the discussion and gnashing of teeth over this zinc issue, not once do I recall any source mentioning what year that zinc became part of the additive package added to motor oil. This wasn't an issue till we got to hotrodders swaping factory stuff for aftermarket cams and lifters made offshore with questionable metallurgy standards. Soft cams and lifters wearing almost instantly after rebuilds with high lift long duration cams and dual heavy pressure valve springs. Things that are useless for street cars. Does anyone have a source that specifies when zinc was added, if so please share that info and source. I am betting it wasn't till the mid fifties when manufacturers entered into the horsepower wars. When engines went to high compression, short stroke, high rpm designs that had push rods, high spring pressure valve springs and high lift cams, from the factory. I have seen one Motor Trend article that backs this up, suggesting that it was put in to ease friction wear specifically at start up when oil not yet a complete cushion between rotating parts.

Half can of STP provides all the zinc needed. That lead pudding is also in the valve galleries. Some times enough to stop up proper draining of the area which combined with out of spec valve guides can cause clouds of oil smoke upon acceleration after cornering sharply and briskly. The sludge in the pan was part of the design kind of on the same particular entrapment as the oil bath air cleaner. After shutdown, stuff in the oil settled into the pan staying there till drained at change time.

Similar product, different sizes. But yes that would work as well or maybe better as there would be fewer seams per area covered.

Used duct insulation, had some rolls of drip edge rubber adhesive that I anchored it with. This is the stuff about 4 or 5 inches wide that goes under the starter row of shingles as underlayment between the metal drip edge and the shingle. Cuts easily sticks pretty well to non rusted metal. Wire brushing can promote better sticking.

If you are so inclined and get adventurous, consider joining the P15 Picnic Tour in Sept. We have a couple cars from Ontario registered. There is a thread on this forum detailing this year's tour in and around Manchester New Hampshire. Picnic participants from London, Ontario area have indicated interest in hosting next year's tour. If you have any interest in taking a long ride in your beautiful Chrysler, we would love to have you.

Is the wire that goes into the steering box connected? There should be a phenolic connector in line, going from the relay up through the box column to the button. Make sure there is a good clean connection there. It doesnt take much corrosion in these conne tions to cause a problem. Also I have found the bolts mounting the horns to their mount need to be good and tightly screwed in.

If I remember setting pressures at the gas station for bias plies was 24 front 22 rear. 24 rear with a loaded trunk and or rear passengers.

Wow! Wishing for a positive outcome for your little one.

Sounds good, so what time is dinner served? Couple nights ago there was half a roasted pork loin in the fridge. Didn't want to mess with making gravy. Found a box of Zatarins dirty rice, substituted the water with a can of diced tomatoes and liquid, added some mushrooms, kidney beans, and some rough diced peppers and onions. Diced up the pork. Did the rice with a bit of ham stock in the wok, added the pork, cooked till most of the liquids were absorbed. Had a salad and a baguette with a glass of pinot grigio. Last night had a cheeseburger from a food truck at a cruise in.

Los, here's the thing, had a late friend who's slogan regarding food was " if it green its trouble, if it's fried get double! " Notice the key word is "late". I miss him. Moderate buddy, moderate.

First, clarify the term turn over. My reference for that phrase is, the starter is able to make the engine make revolutions. These idioms seem to be regional and dialectic. I have heard folks say she wont crank which means it won't start. Others have said it spins but won't run. I have heard it turns over but won't start. Spins but won't catch, cranks but won't pop. So clear the air are you a soda guy, pop guy or soft drink guy.

On further consideration, I'm going Hollywood green from the 48 chips.

Go to the downloads section of this site. The borg warner manual and users guide is in pdf file there. I believe it contains the stock schematic including the kick down switch. There is also a simplified schematic which bypasses the kick down and allows for user engagement disengagement through a fused switch that energizes the od relay powered from the acc terminal of the ignition switch.

Check the charts and chips at autocolor library. Search by year and make. Balfour green rings a bell. Check the earlier year's also. The firewall should be body color unless somebody messed with it. https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/

Sounds like an eletrical problem. You need to verify if the relay is sending power to the solenoid, and that the governor is providing a proper ground for the solenoid to operate. For a simple test you can make a switched temporary ground wire to bypass the governor. This would allow you to control the grounding manually. If you look in the downloads section of this site you will find a pdf file of the borg warner r 10 operators manual. It includes the factory wiring g schematic, a troubleshooting guide, and a simplified wiring schematic that bypasses the kickdown switch. Are you running the factory kick down circuit? The other important issue is wire size. The od components draw a significant Amp draw. Your wires need to be up to the task. On mine, I have a twisted pair of 10 gauge wire powering the relay, and going from the relay to the solenoid. If I remember correctly the solenoid pulls 12 amps on the pull in circuit, and 8 amps on the hold in circuit. Don't skimp on wire size. I believe I used 12 gauge on all the other od related wires. Soldered connections are the wway to go, if you use crimp connectors use good ones. Then assure all the connections are clean and tight. The normal road speed for the governor to connect the solenoid ground is around 38 give or take due to age and condition of the part.

Wondering, did the OP author get his lights sorted? Been a while since first posting. Coming up on 11 months.

Also those wires are to thin for proper operation if the car is still 6volt. A 6v high beam is typically 40 watts so 6.5 amps. Wiring charts you need a minimum of 12 gauge, the picture seems to be 16. If you are powering both high beams the wire needs to be 10 gauge till it splits where 12 ga is good. 6v circuits depend on flow. Each connection, each foot or run with impeded flow causes heat which increases resistance. With 6v wires when in doubt go thicker.

Sounds like a super hero t shirt deal. I am METAL MAN ! . Unfortunately my side kick would be The Corrosion Kid.

Guess I need to look at the owners manual. Thought I had sitting mastered, guess not. Who reads the instructions? Los control like most things, my sleep habits have changed, probably for the worst. I usually stay up reading from 11 till around 2:00am. If I go to bed earlier, I just lay awake till 2. I seem to get about 6 to 7 hours of sleep,but I have a shoulder problem which some nights gets me out of bed and into the recliner to moderate pain. My best sleep usually occurs from 6 till 8 am, after a nature call. My wife's pattern has changed to where she wakes up around 5 am, can't fall back asleep. This morning at 6:15, I found her spreading mulch around the deck. I said good morning and went back to bed, getting back up at 8:20. Ya gotta do whatcha gotta do to get along. Golden years my @$$.

Looks good. Was looking at maxjax two post low lift. They feature a sit down creeper very similar to yours. My problem would be some sort of a lift to get me up and off. Physical limitations being a major consideration. Couple nights ago we lost power. I just bought an electrically operated recliner. Good thing it's comfortable, as I was stuck in it from 11:15pm till 4:15am. https://www.maxjax.com/maxjax/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzLSarpP--AIVcgaICR1x8w91EAQYAiABEgLaCPD_BwE

Static timing should have number 1 on compression with rotor at 7 o'clock if oilpump indexing is correct. The drive can be correct or 180 degrees out. So assure number one is at TDC on compression recheck rotor position, and assure spark plug wires are correct. When I first did mine everything was correct except I was one tower off on the distributor cap. So no start. So even though it was correct as per firing order. It was misaligned as to position on the cap. Now if the oil pump was messed with, the rotor position may not be correct. But once you locate the position for number 1, then do the firing order from that position. You can also power the negative terminal of the coil from the battery with a jumper wire directly from the battery with a jumper wire to isolate any problems that may be in the ign switch circuit. Make a wire long enough to reach from the battery to the coil with 12 gauge wire and a couple alligator clips. With this in place you will need to disconnect the wire to shut down if when it stairs, hence the alligator clips.

Using a Dynomax turbo flow. It was about 35 bucks at Pep Boys, but that was in 2004. 2 in id inlet and outlet. Check their website for current equivalent. Had the pipes custom bent. Muffler is in pretty much stock location using g stock hanger locations. You can hear it when the engine is working but quiet at cruise, no dronning.

Copper tubing is not recommended for fuel line. It is known to be prone to brittle with vibration. How long does this take? I have no idea. But have seen it on an old garden tractor. Tube split and began to leak. Keep your eye on it. The new brake line stuff might be a better material, almost as easy to bend as copper. As for the road drft tube, both my engines had it mounted very close to vertical. I have seen them mounted angled back toward the foot well. Seems to me that would lessen the area where the low pressure area develops.

Carburetor change will have zero effect on mph per rpm at cruising speed. Long stroke and high numerical rear end gears are your factors here. Rpm at 60 mph will be around 3200 to 3400 depending on gear and tire diameter. No carburetor change will change the math involved in that equation.