greg g

Some where in the down loads section is a hop up article from a late 50s or early 60s magazine detailing power gaines per modification, covering over boring, head milling, carb changes, headers etc. It was submitted by Mark Duggan and should be searchable through his name. Don Coatney posted a chart detailing compression ratio gains through head milling and block decking. I performed several mods on my 56 230. Factory hp was 125 at the flywheel at 3600 rpm My engine on a chassis Dyno pulled 127 rear wheel hp at 3300 rpm. Gestimating flywheel hp would be in the 145 neighborhood. Not even in most mini van ratings, but notable over the stock 97.

Haven't had any experience with the YF, but heard several comments about not being reliable, being fussy about settings.

You need about an inch and a half of free play at the top of the pedal's travel. In other words you must shorten the actuation rod to introduce the required slack. Also assure your mc isn't over filled and the cap vent is clear. This assumes your rubber brake lines are new and not rotted out. Old lines can collapse internally allowing fluid to pass when the brakes are app.ied, but not allow return flow when released.

It also looks to have the sealed canister oil filter. These are very scarce and ridiculous expensive if you find them. You can retro fit a can and replaceable element type fairly inexpensively.

You might want to consider a Holley like the 225 slant six ran. Some of these ( Ford applications) had an externally adjustable main jet to allow fine tuning. If you are not a stickler for original parts, this may be worth considering. There is also a version that came on pre 4.0 L jeep engines. You may need to rig up cable linkage to get the throttle pull in the correct direction.

The solenoid is a simple electro magnetic swith. When energized by one of the small wires from the start button, a magnet pulls together the contacts inside to connect the large cables from the battery to the starter. This magnet should shut off when the button is released. If not either the button switch isn't disconnection, or the large connectors in the solenoid are sticking in the connected position. This fault is likely mechanical. Friction, broken spring, dirt, something in the way of releasing the contacts. Or electrically an inadvertent ground, which would act the same as the start button signal. There is a thing called the mechanics helper which is basically a remote for the starter button. For what they cost, it's a cheap way to check your starter circuits. It's basically a professional hot wire tool. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7002623?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Tools-Equipment&campaign_id=8553470562&adgroup_id=107047174069&adtype=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIybGr6_W__AIVYP_jBx2G_Q7eEAQYAyABEgK-A_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&

Grab an extra hose to keep in the car. Cheap insurance. Seen half a dozen fail on tours and travel with others to meets. I had one made up at a hydraulic hose place. 10 bucks, 10 years ago.

I took the mild weather break to pull and clean my snow blower carbs, one is a 30 plus year old Techumseh engine one, the other a 2 year old Troy bilt with about 2.5 hours on it. Guess which one had more problems with clogged passages? Yes the old one runs on 87 erhanol, the new one 91 non eth with 3 ounces of seafoam in the half gallon plastic tank.

Get one of those GM vacuum reservoirs that look like a pizza sauce can. Make sure it has a check valve. You can hang it under the dash and plumb it into the wiper vacuum tube. Should be good for 10 to 12 swipes. You can improve the operation by introducing something to lubricate the leather flapper inside. Some have used pb blaster, others atf, and brake fluid was also mentioned.

I'd be chaining the atv to the trailer, putting up security lights and cleaning up my shot gun. Looks like a Dakota pick up. Running around with no front tags, likely up to no good. Don't care much for thieves. Hope somebody grabs the tag number.

Put a vacuum accumulated in the line from the manifold to the wiper. These can be had from various cars in pick and pulls for pocket change. Or get a new one from rock auto. These will give you a reserve for hills and brisk acceleration. Here is one on Amazon for example. https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwij7LDcwov8AhXE4MgKHa8DCOoYABAFGgJxdQ&sig=AOD64_0ftRyuWVWKw07dwWqvosT3mgqaSA&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwjI16jcwov8AhXhFlkFHZqLAxcQww8I7A0&adurl=

Sometimes a good dusting after 70 years can brighten things up a bit too.

Was going to say there can't be many of those over there, not many left in the states either. I can only remember seeing 4 or 5 over the past 20 plus years.

I believe the seals are some sort of carbon impregnated material. Don't know if they are soft and flexible or stiff and resilient. But I don't think the additives in atf will have any effect. I remember my Dad had a 49 Wayfarer that started to leak. I heard him talking to the neighbor about draining and spiking it. I guess there was a back yard fix were you put a bolt in the drain hole to connect the impellers. This of course defeated the fluid drive but you could still drive normally using the clutch and three speed trans. They also talked about swapping in a junk yard unit. Neither happened cuz about 3 weeks later, a 54 Meadowbrook was in the driveway in place of the 49. It was a fluid drive three speed also.

Sad news. RIP.

I carry a spare distributer, fuel pump, fan belt, head gasket and torque wrench. Because I have a different style rear universal joint, an extra one is also in the kit. Some mechanics wire is also a good thing to tuck in along with a spool of 12 gauge insulated wire.

Seems to me her history is a mystery. The semi auto in the truck was called a truck o matic with fender badges proclaiming it. If it is a semi automatic it's probably a retro fit by a previous owner. Nice looking ride though. Would be interesting to do some detective work to see what's really up with the drive train. Also the 58 230s were rated for more hp in 58 The description also further blurs the picture by tossing in an overdrive reference.

We just went through our stores, we are down to one shelf unit of cleaning supplies and paper goods, and one of food staples. Now about hoarding gas for snow blower, generator and plow.

Check out the film on You Tube of the division of labor across the brands,

2 door sedans were pretty rare birds. Not many made, fewer left.

Well rust is steel that has been converted to an oxide with no structural strength,then what does the the converter convert it to. Does the oxidation stop when it's encapsulated? What comprises the encapulation?

The first engine in the above pics was put together and documented on this forum by Pete "Blueskies" Andersen. Pete and Don Coatney were building their cars at about the same time. Their progress was documented with nearly daily updates on these pages. Their contributions inspired a good many members to continue or start work on several project vehicles. I believe that content is still available here via member name content search. Those two guys made the p15-d24.com site a daily must visit for about two years.

I have a dyno max turbo flow on mine. It cost me 35 bucks at pep boys. Dont know if they still make it. It talks a bit at wide open throttle but at cruise from 35 to 65 its quiet. No drone, no closed throttle crackle pop. System was custom bent 2 inch id, muffler in stock position. It has 50 k miles and 17 years and still doing its job. Check their web site to see if there is something similar. Failing that something stock for a later slant six full size car or pickup truck or van might fit the bill.

Look in your area for a construction vehicle repair company. Many times they will be able to bond or rivet new friction material to your shoes. The place in our area says. They can d0 any thing including carousels to elevators.