John-T-53

Rear main seal replacement is tricky. I'd pull the motor, mainly because I'm sick of laying on the ground. You'd have to unbolt the transmission and remove the bellhousing and flywheel for proper access. You have to remove the timing chain so that the crank can be moved down for clearance. The good news is that you can leave the connecting rods bolted in place, and the pistons will all slide down in their cylinders. Trick is not to move the crank to the point of the rings snapping out! This is at least for a two-piece modern seal. You need to take these steps so that the seal can be properly glued into place. Without sealant, it's a waste of time. Also, I'm Not sure about a rope seal, that's a different animal. See pics below for a recent rear main seal replacement on a 251.

Yes.

That wheel looks like it failed due to a combination improper attachment, or loose lug nuts while being driven. Corrosion may have also played a role if areas were severely weakened to begin with. This wouldn't normally occur on a wheel just because it's stamped steel or stock.

Helping a friend work on a 251, check out these nice original valves.... they're going back in.

A rare sunny day in Morro Bay...

After pivot pin failure, the second time around I staked it, and it still walked out on its own. So, made a new pin with a clip.

Call up Pertronix and have them tell you what to order. I tried looking it up myself when doing the same project a few years ago but was not 100% sure like yourself. They're quite helpful, from my experience. And yup, be sure to tell them if you have changed your system to 12 volts.

Yay!!!!

Ordered through machine shop, they don't deal with nos parts, no suppliers carry them usually. Where would one find nos valves or guides? VPW?

I used Chevy valves (made by SBI) too only because I couldn't find a stock Mopar valve and guide combo that would give the proper stem to guide clearance (all were excessive). Found some SBI valves that had a thicker stem, then honed out the guides. The valve faces had to be turned way down on the lathe to make 'em fit, it was a biotch. I would do it differently now, keep the stock valves and install bronze guide inserts like Marty had in his hopped up flattie.

I can't imagine finding the correct electronic ignition on Amazon. With 6 V + ground you have to order the exact one that will work, I had to call Pertronix and have them tell me the correct model number (after they had a team huddle) before I ordered it directly from them. Also I wouldn't recommend installing Ford parts on you MoPar; a dimmer switch ain't that expensive...who knows how the Ford switch works and if even 6 volts... http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/dimmer-switch-dodge-truck-plymouth-truck-fargo-truck-chrysler-dodge-desoto-plymouth-1936-1970-1-1

Yup, you gotta grind the end of the valve stems, which is part of the normal to-do list of a valve job. Grind them 2-3x more than you need for clearance as you'll have plenty of adjustment in the "up" direction. I assume that you have the #6 exhaust lifter bottomed out? Must take them to the shop for this. they have to be ground on a valve grinder that makes the right kind of finish, exactly perpendicular to the stem. It's a 10-minute task for all 12 valves. At least you don't have the springs back in yet! When you get them back, install the springs then check the clearance. Don't forget you have to re-adjust when hot. Also, the clearance will sometimes decrease over time as the valves seat, so check them after about 1k miles. On mine, there was no change.

Alternative/Power Performance in SLO by chance? With Harry the head man? There is a shop across the bay from me in Hayward that does line honing. I think my block was around $200-300 when I had it done in 2012 if I remember correctly. Al Hubbard Machine Shop. Wade is the owner, great guy. And yes you should absolutely have it honed or bored with your situation. I think $1k is too much.

What picture?

Considering the planned trip to Morro Bay, I imagine that the ice blocks would only be needed for the trip out. Once you're there, you could "capture" some of the coastal air in the cooler, then just recirculate it to keep cool for the ride back home.

Do you mean they're bottomed out in the lifters / no improvement in adjustment?

First ever B series Dodge in a Concours? Make sure the underside of your dizzy cap is clean, also no rocks in the tire treads, lol! Good luck bro!

Off a marine engine possibly?

Like Dodgeb4ya says, the exhaust seats are already hardened. I don't think you need to change them unless they are damaged in a any way...I'd leave 'em alone if they look good, except for a recut if necessary. These engines were built with high quality materials. If you were working on a Chevy or Ford of the same era, perhaps new seats would be compulsory. Even on my little 230 block they're hardened and were kind of a pain to recut with a stone because of the hardness...the stone had to be re-dressed twice or more on each seat. I've put about 15-20k miles on it since the rebuild several years ago, and it had over 100k miles on it before then, and no abnormal seat wear was apparent. I have SBI valves and guides too, no complaints.

I did a run to San Mateo Lumber on Friday. Picked up special order kiln-dried 2x14's and ipe decking..

VERY COOL!!!!!!

Looking forward to seeing more as this one comes off the back burner! But first, how bout some pics of the shop? How big, what amenities, features, etc...

Looks like there were some forward look era cars there too...I can see a couple lurking!

I requested oilite bronze at the time, I think. Do the two materials vary in their appearance?

Note the balance marks on the crank flange and flywheel. Don't forget to line these up!