John-T-53

My machinist friend has seen those slots on the head before, just on "very old stuff" he said. This one appears to be factory cut. And yes, the keeper groove on this one appears to be unique! The screwdriver lapping method (especially if you had a strong magnetic one) sounds more reasonable than the rubber suction cup method - those dang suction cups always slip off.

It might make a good piece for a trophy...perhaps? "Tuff Trucker" award?

the top...

I found a valve while building a fence on my property last summer. Buried about 18" down, where a post was going. I've been curious what it goes to, maybe some experts here know... It's definitely from a flathead something. length: 7 1/8" stem: 3/8" head: 1 3/4"

If you're going to be spending some nights "in the dog house" might as well make it to fit your own needs. That way when it's mandatory, it'll actually be enjoyable. If it's on wheels, all the better!

The "frame" might already be separating from the body on its own!

Do you have a build thread already going for your project? If not, please start one. There's a lot of good information that could be shared and it seems you're setup for doing it right.

Re-sleeving and rebuilding service: Karps power brake in Pomona, CA: http://www.karpspb.com/

I'm late to the dogpile, but yes...the answer is yes. I'll pass this along to the Linden crowd once again. Thanks Lyle!

Absolutely No confidence if looking at a computer screen, or a print of a scan or color copy. The only way is to have the original chips in hand, and I'll bet that these are as true to color as when they were new, unless exposed to the sun for a few decades. If faded, a little rubbing compound would easily expose a fresh layer. But even then, the new color match is only as good as the knowledge and skill of the person making the new batch. You can still get original paint chips from vendors on ebay, at swap meets, or through ads in Hemmings.

A hard to find part. I found one by calling up Vintage Power Wagons. I'd give them a try.

Hope your jack stands are sturdy sir. What about the corrosion protection factor that paint has to offer?

I did my annual oil change and sent in a sample for testing, strictly for curiosity purposes. Included in this test is insolubles (particulates) in the oil that the filter is supposed to remove. Well it turns out that the Napa 1080 is doing a good job, see attachment. Next year I'll try the Baldwin JC-405 depth media sock element and re-test and post the results here. Although 0.1% would be hard to beat! No more assumptions, here is data:

I'm still using the Napa 1080 / Wix 51080. Not too short, fits good and easy to change. I install with tight fitting steel washers on the top and bottom of the element to seal it to the tube better, otherwise there is no seal (EDIT: the felt washer integral to the element is too big to make a seal with the housing tube). And a 1/2" spacer at the top to hold it down a bit from the top.

could be considered a crude "IED"....haha

Mayo jars are the cat's pajamas for this kind o' stuff. Trader Joe's still sells their mayo in glass jar (w/blue top). I feel bad every time we throw one out!

Sounds like you'll have to completely disassemble the carb and see where it's plugged. Maybe the wrong gasket is on there, or just installed backwards? Some of these carb kits come with a multitude of gaskets and it can be challenging just to find the correct one in the box. Otherwise, use compressed air with a small wire or paper clip to probe all the passages. Then you can test each one by spraying chemtool in each and verify that it exits on the other side.

I am running an 8-bolt hole 230 crank with my 4-bolt flywheel. I was under the assumption that 8-bolts were 230s only, or 218s from 1941 only. Otherwise all 218s had 4 hole flanges. Check the stroke on the crank too, that's another way to verify 218 vs 230.

Yay! I remembered to participate this year and I had a free Saturday morning to wash and detail my truck, getting it ready for MOPAR ALLEY next Sunday!

TODD was a cool project to look over, but my soft spot for 'snub noses' (COEs) got me excited about this one parked on the side... ...surrounded by Mark's hoard of doors, lol.

For now it's hands down FEF. It moves under its own power, and my first ride in a one ton! We had to watch out for this puma on the prowl though...

Very good information Jeff and thank you for sharing. I have had this subject in the back of my mind over the years, thinking of when my drums will finally become too thin to use. I would recommend riveting the drums to the hubs. This ensures that the lug screws are not absorbing the shear of the drum mounting plate as you brake. 5/16" bolts in the rivet holes are a plus over nothing, but the bolts still do not fit tight enough within the holes to make it a completely solid assembly. When rivets are installed, the shank is compressed, which completely fills the holes and any imperfections within, eliminating any slop potential. I believe that this is the reason they were built this way from the factory. If you end up going this route, check the drums on your brake lathe after riveting to ensure trueness. I don't think it's hard to do if you have the correct tools, but I am unsure what type of rivet gun, dies, and where to obtain. I have had little success in finding tools in the rivet dept. A friend of mine has a '65 Chevy truck with 4-wheel drum brakes, and lost two wheels on the road at different times. The lug studs were sheared completely off. His truck originally had them riveted onto the front hubs and rear axle flanges.

ok, here's a product that I just came across, that might be of interest/use to the patina folks.... https://thecraftsmanblog.com/product/the-patinator/ "The Patinator" .... could be a good nickname for a vehicle too!

I recommend calling Vintage Power Wagons - they stock a complete line of engine rebuilding parts. George Asche might also be able to give some advice or even possibly provide a set - his number is on this forum somewhere if you search.

You like those tailgates with the chute in them, don't you? Nice haul, any choke knobs? And on that yellow PW, you know when they put the "M" upside down, it's disrespect!