John-T-53

What are the guide to stem clearances that were set? I believe that the spec calls for a pretty tight clearance (.001 - .002" or so if I remember correctly - just guessin') and the exhaust is a tad looser than the intake. This leaves little room for slippage if any foreign material, gum, or varnish gets in there. I'd try applying some extra lubricant as others have said. If it still gives you trouble you might have to remove the head and valve and 'kiss it' with a guide hone. I too had a sticking valve after doing a valve job a few years ago - on the way to the BBQ actually. it happened on the side of the freeway. Luckily it popped back with a screwdriver and didn't stick again, and I was back on my way shortly. The culprit was a speck of metal or something - it scratched the stem.

Beer is handled, so bring PUMA. Given today's standards, you could have her as your emotional support animal on the plane!

I'm making a comeback! Sometimes life gets in the way of old trucks. Ok here we go for new seals: http://corvettespecialty.com/corvette-heater-control-valve-seal-kit-1956-57 The valve is from a '56 or '57 'Vette. The valve housing looks different but the innards apparently are the same as the 'Ma' version. http://corvettespecialty.com/corvette-heater-control-valve-1956-57

I too have the "Corvette" valve on my engine and need to get new rubber seals, because I can't close it via the cable control from the dash pod (the seals too stiff). I should have ordered them when somebody found the website years ago and posted it here....I'll keep looking. If I remember correctly, my valve came in a Mopar box. I'll see if I can dig that up too.

Wow, that's nice, how bout some more shots of that one? I always liked the blue paint color on these trucks.

My machinist friend has seen those slots on the head before, just on "very old stuff" he said. This one appears to be factory cut. And yes, the keeper groove on this one appears to be unique! The screwdriver lapping method (especially if you had a strong magnetic one) sounds more reasonable than the rubber suction cup method - those dang suction cups always slip off.

It might make a good piece for a trophy...perhaps? "Tuff Trucker" award?

the top...

I found a valve while building a fence on my property last summer. Buried about 18" down, where a post was going. I've been curious what it goes to, maybe some experts here know... It's definitely from a flathead something. length: 7 1/8" stem: 3/8" head: 1 3/4"

If you're going to be spending some nights "in the dog house" might as well make it to fit your own needs. That way when it's mandatory, it'll actually be enjoyable. If it's on wheels, all the better!

The "frame" might already be separating from the body on its own!

Do you have a build thread already going for your project? If not, please start one. There's a lot of good information that could be shared and it seems you're setup for doing it right.

Re-sleeving and rebuilding service: Karps power brake in Pomona, CA: http://www.karpspb.com/

I'm late to the dogpile, but yes...the answer is yes. I'll pass this along to the Linden crowd once again. Thanks Lyle!

Absolutely No confidence if looking at a computer screen, or a print of a scan or color copy. The only way is to have the original chips in hand, and I'll bet that these are as true to color as when they were new, unless exposed to the sun for a few decades. If faded, a little rubbing compound would easily expose a fresh layer. But even then, the new color match is only as good as the knowledge and skill of the person making the new batch. You can still get original paint chips from vendors on ebay, at swap meets, or through ads in Hemmings.

A hard to find part. I found one by calling up Vintage Power Wagons. I'd give them a try.

Hope your jack stands are sturdy sir. What about the corrosion protection factor that paint has to offer?

I did my annual oil change and sent in a sample for testing, strictly for curiosity purposes. Included in this test is insolubles (particulates) in the oil that the filter is supposed to remove. Well it turns out that the Napa 1080 is doing a good job, see attachment. Next year I'll try the Baldwin JC-405 depth media sock element and re-test and post the results here. Although 0.1% would be hard to beat! No more assumptions, here is data:

I'm still using the Napa 1080 / Wix 51080. Not too short, fits good and easy to change. I install with tight fitting steel washers on the top and bottom of the element to seal it to the tube better, otherwise there is no seal (EDIT: the felt washer integral to the element is too big to make a seal with the housing tube). And a 1/2" spacer at the top to hold it down a bit from the top.

could be considered a crude "IED"....haha

Mayo jars are the cat's pajamas for this kind o' stuff. Trader Joe's still sells their mayo in glass jar (w/blue top). I feel bad every time we throw one out!

Sounds like you'll have to completely disassemble the carb and see where it's plugged. Maybe the wrong gasket is on there, or just installed backwards? Some of these carb kits come with a multitude of gaskets and it can be challenging just to find the correct one in the box. Otherwise, use compressed air with a small wire or paper clip to probe all the passages. Then you can test each one by spraying chemtool in each and verify that it exits on the other side.

I am running an 8-bolt hole 230 crank with my 4-bolt flywheel. I was under the assumption that 8-bolts were 230s only, or 218s from 1941 only. Otherwise all 218s had 4 hole flanges. Check the stroke on the crank too, that's another way to verify 218 vs 230.

Yay! I remembered to participate this year and I had a free Saturday morning to wash and detail my truck, getting it ready for MOPAR ALLEY next Sunday!

TODD was a cool project to look over, but my soft spot for 'snub noses' (COEs) got me excited about this one parked on the side... ...surrounded by Mark's hoard of doors, lol.