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Brandon S

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About Brandon S

  • Birthday March 17

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Orleans, LA
  • Interests
    History and fixing old stuff...
  • My Project Cars
    Restoring 1942 P-14C to a WWII staff car; 1942 Harley-Davidson WLA 45 c.i. flathead, 1945 Willys MB L-134 Jeep.

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    brandon.shearer@yahoo.com
  • Biography
    WWII
  • Occupation
    Military

Recent Profile Visitors

1,405 profile views
  1. Turns out my mechanical connector copper tag thingy was the worn contact- only for 42 and earlier though..
  2. Thanks for a suggestion Todd- did I mention I have a brand spankin' new Optima 6V with 100cca? Ignition is a flame thrower Petronix also. Something is rapidly depleting the power. Also smell an elect burn. I'm thinking the generator not charging or have the two field wires reversed? Getting dark now in New Orleans so gonna call it quits and try again tomorrow. Don't think I'll make the Sun afternoon cruise-in.
  3. Hi Jeff, After weeks of false starts and backfires (plus new muffler) I drove my P14 for the first time ever this weekend. Got it up to 3rd gear and shifts fine but after once or twice around the block, it sputters out. I think it's got to be electrical (not charging or something). New coil, petronix ignition, carb, fuel pump, good pressure in bowl, etc. Brake lite stays on too after using so back to the troubleshooting (even swapped that out). Happy motoring. -Brandon
  4. No beer yet! Same-same and tried everything- even gravity feeding gas, spraying banigold with starter fluid for leaks, etc. I'm thinking the only thing left is the heat riser valve as it gets worse the longer it is heated up. Outside is adjusted properly but maybe i didn't put together. Gonna pull it off this morning...
  5. Appreciate the recommendations. Yes, a P-14C- I think there's only a few out there original left and one on ebay now asking $1800 for a gutted out one. Service manual and Carter rebuild instructions don't really cover this topic and after a repop fuel filter and a carb I rebuilt myself that didn't do the trick, I got an AC NOS pump and a professionally rebuilt carb on e-bay for BIG bucks. New stainless steel form-fitted lines and my tank was chemiclaly etched and coated with the Kreem kit so not thinking blockage or rust particles. 2 filters- one glass bowl and one in-line. You know, I didn't think of the gas cap- it's a Roberts one I think with a rubber gasket seal so will try with that off and see what happens. It's probably something too simple that goes overlooked. Thanks for the carb advise so I will re-check again.
  6. I've scanned the forum with no luck and over a month trying to get a solid run and driving me nuts...HELP! Engine and car finished,missing car shows now, plus I volunteered to drive a general in a Veterans Parade next weekend and I can't get this thing to run more than 20 seconds much less drive! Rebuilt a B&B D6G1, all new gaskets, factory settings, float is 5/64ths from the top set, gas pushing through valve into bowl and keeping filled, vaccum on the intake (wiper inlet) is 20s PSI green range, timing TDC (light tested), etc. and it SHOULD run in theory, right? Here's what I can figure out to establish a baseline setting for fine tuning so it can run without dying at idle (and draining battery after many attempted starts). If anybody has gone through this before: 1. For the threaded throttle rod from the bellcrank housing, where should the linkage arm be be set in relation to the throttle valve- fully closed, hair open, half way, full? Should the throttle adjustment screw be fully out with initial setting at closed or near closed? 2. The throttle screw in relation to #1, should this pull open the valve slightly from completely closed? How does it affect the choke cam? When the starter pedal is engaged, it pulls the bellcrank linkage bak anyway releasing s squirt down the body, right? 3. What is the baseline choke setting with the knob forward to the dash and the set screw on the cable? Should it allow the choke valve to free-range or traverse from fully open to fully closed? 4. I am assuming that the choke should be fully or near fully closed on starting/running so air can be drawn through the idle screw, right? The opening for that is tiny that apparently only a few degrees is the difference between air/no air. This is my 2nd carb I am trying and seems they are waaay too tempermental.
  7. Thanks for the reply Greg- all new lines- stainless fuel and rubber flex hoses. Have a borrowed air compressor so going to try. Coated the tank in Kreem and don't remember a strainer in there...
  8. Thanks Tom- I see they have 4 variations on their on-line catalog and very reasonable!!
  9. I appreciate all the feedback- I found this through a forum search after seeing the heat shield in the Master Parts List which I discovered was missing from mine and figured it was there for a reason. Seems WAY beyond my abilities of a piece of sheet metal and some tin snips but I bought an air cleaner bracket from Mr. Taylor before out of the Plymouth Bulletin so I'll try him,....thanks!!
  10. Was considering getting one of these pricey things but looking in the Master Parts List also see they have a different heat shield, "bracket" and "insulator" which who knows where that can be found? So this is more for assisting with the wipers than pushing more fuel to the carb? The latter is my problem with my mechanical- got one from Bernbaum but it wasn't pumping to keep the float bowl full enough to run so found a NOS AC one that's coming in but wasn't cheap either. I hope it's not a worn cam lobe.
  11. Does anybody know where to find these parts NOS? The above link was broken and the DPETCA Truck Knowledge didn't have any info. Thanks in advance!
  12. Joe, Did you figure this out- just got a patterned headliner in today and going to try this as a weekend project (yeah right). Got the metal pieces above the doors but I'm starting with a totally gutted car with nothing to base on....thanks. Pics would be fantastic!
  13. SMS Auto Fabrics or LeBarron Bonney also makes them- lots of original fabrics in the original patterns.
  14. Awesome car- better shape than when I picked mine up in Apr '12. Got my grill airflow pannel from Collectors Auto Supply along with some other hard-to-find parts. They're a little slow and not cheap but beggars can't be coosers. I went the cheap route and painted it olive drab!
  15. Having just built one piece by piece, 100% postitive ID as a '42 P-14. Outside trim is non-blackout but the inside horn button is- a 3-screw swap though and have both in my parts pile.
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