Jerry Roberts

That is what I have too , a copper washer there .

If I remember correctly , someone mentioned that he sold his car and moved to Florida . I could be wrong though .

Well they look just like a freeze plug for the flat heads only smaller . Perhaps measure and see if it is a common freeze plug size . There is a small freeze plug mounted over the temperature gauge ether bulb in the head , perhaps it is the same size .

Yes just thin soft steel . Perhaps your cap is gone and your are drilling into the king pin ?

Also some of the members have had the inside of a rubber brake hose collapse and block the return of brake fluid .

ebay has lots of 6 volt bulbs .

One of the guys on the forum had this problem . He found that he had left out a separate spring that was found still in the box . Not all of the point sets have this separate spring though . His points were floating at higher RPM ' s .

If you don't get in the cab to start your truck , don't let the onlookers stand in front . Your truck might be in gear . They wouldn't be too impressed with that . ?

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Water can splash up under the hood , I would put it inside , someplace where you can reach it easily .

Here is a set of ignition wrenches size 5/32 to 3/8 by Craftsman . I have had this set for 54 years and have never used some of them but others have come in handy .

Relays are used for things that draw a lot of amps like headlights or dual horns . You won't need a relay for the electric fuel pump .

" ... I pulled the head. I put on a new gasket and tightened according to proper order and torque. I have attached a picture of a leak. It is the bolt the throttle linkage sets upon. I assume I need to take it out, put joint compound on it and tighten it back down. ..." Several of the head bolts go into the water jacket , so if you haven't put sealer on the head bolts , you need to do that . Then retighten the bolts after warm up . I retighten mine several times .

I am going to guess that the plugs are there to keep junk ( and fresh paint ) from falling into the holes and that new plugs will be going in .

Rebuild or replace depending on how it looks inside . Some of us are having the old master cylinders sleeved with brass or stainless steel so that the next time it happens you can just pop in a kit .

So are you using a sender from Tanks Inc that uses only the number 2 terminal ?

It sounds like your new sender wasn't made to match your vehicle , perhaps a generic sender ? On the back of your fuel gauge you have three terminals ; one marked IGN for voltage in , and two other terminals marked 1 and 2 that go to the sender in the tank . On the original sender in the tank there would be two terminals marked 1 and 2 to match with the two terminals on the gauge . There would have been no ground terminal on the sender . Can the seller of the new sender inform you on how it is supposed to be hooked up ? On a side note ; I have seen two different gauges that didn't work until I filled the points . you can very gently look at the points and see if they are bright and clean . I don't know if any of this can be of help to you .

Vintage Power Wagons sells the studs too , you could get everything shipped together .

austinsailor , what did you ever do to repair your steering gear box ?

That looks like the switch for the brake lights .

There was an article in Hot Rod magazine about the parts made in China . The author was an employee at the magazine who buys hundreds of parts each month . He said that a buyer can't completely get away from the Chinese parts but that the buyer should only buy through a trusted , popular , well known dealer to help insure good quality as the vendor will want to keep their good reputation by making sure that the high quality is there through quality control . Sometimes we don't have a choice .

I don't have feedback on the drag link but I have bought parts from them before . They are located in the same city that I live in . I am happy with my parts . I found that their prices were a little high but as I didn't need to have the parts shipped , the final price was the same as the other vendors for me . They advertise that they can make their own parts if need be . They have a good reputation . The shop is clean and large .

I don't know why you are stumbling around with this question . it is a quick and easy question to answer . The only thing you need to do is take off your air cleaner , and with the engine off , shine a light down into your carburetor . Give the throttle linkage a full stroke and you should see a strong shot of gas going into the carb . If you don't see the strong shot of gas and your carb has gas , then you need to work on your accelerator pump . It is simple , just do it .

The pan isn't heavy at all . Drain the oil first , there could be some sludge in the bottom .

If your rebuild kit includes new pistons you need to wait until the machine work is done to see if you need oversize pistons . And other over sized parts .