desoto1939
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Everything posted by desoto1939
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I have a 39 Desoto. Had a similar pbm. The brakes worked fine for 30 years then one day sitting in the garage pumped the brakes to test in the winter and then pedal went to the floor. Started checking the backing plates of each wheel to see if any leaking brake fluid and found none. The next day got back in the car and was able to have a good pedal, very odd then the pedal went to the floor. Pulled all four drum not leaking and wheel cylinders. Knew it had to be the MC which as you know is under the floor board. Pulled that. Took it apart thinking that I might have a torn rubber seal. No torn seals, no score or markings in the main piston area. So decided to do a complete rebuild and changed the piston from the aluminum to a brass piston. Put in a new check value. Bench bleed the MC and installed the MC.. I then had good brakes with good travel as per specs. The next day the old parts were on my work bench I looked at the check valve and noticed a very slight cut in the rubber part of the value. This was the cause of my issue. The pedal when beaing pressed permitted the pedal to go to the floor and did not have a resistance. So I hate to say this but pull the mc and rebuild. Do you have any MC rebuild kits. Are you using DOT 3, dot 4 or Dot5 fluid. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
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Can you have someone help you test to verify that you are or not getting. HAve someone sit in the car. Pull the number 1 sparkplug wire from the sparkplug. Use an insulated puller to hold the end of the wire near the head or near the top of the number 1 plug. Have the other person turnthe key and crank over the engine. See if you are getting spark at the number one plug or not. This will tell you that you have a spark or no spark. Did you take out the dizzy and then got out of fireing order by 180 degress. The end of your dissy has a slot so you are either dead on or 180 out of rotation for firing order. Is the dizzy even turning or spinning the rotor when you crank the engine. So pull the cap have someone crank the car to verify that the rotor is rotating correctly. One time I did not get the slot allthe way down into the oilpump slot so I was not getting the rotor to spin but the engine did crank over. So also check this area. Are the sparkplugs wires in the correct holes in the dis cap and also on the correct sparkplugs to make the correct spark at the correct time during the rotation process? Rich HArtung
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When cranking over the engine are you getting fuel upto the carb. Could be a fuel pump issue also or a clogged line. With these older cars a lot of the members have installed a 6v electric fuel pump near the gas tank to help with starting. The electric pumps are the pusher style and not the puller like the mechanical pump on the engine block. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com
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Important seasonal reminder for folks north of Pennsylvania Just
desoto1939 replied to greg g's topic in P15-D24 Forum
all joking aside and I like the fun everyone is having with this topic. But remember to test your antifreeze in your car and make sure that the water mixture is not looking like chocolate milk. If this is happening then the anti rusting agents have gone away. Also since we all have cast iron block I put an 11 oz bottle of antirusting agent liquid made by Prestone in my car each fall to help keep the anti rusting agents up to par and it also helps to lubricate the water pump. Also fill up the gas tank on your last run for the year. I also put Stable 360 into my tank to help stop any rusting of the metal tank. Add air to your tires and add about 5-10 Lbs more air to help keep the tires inflated for over the winter months. Also to help prevent flat spots on the old bias ply tires put a piece of old rug under each wheel. This wil lprevent the flat spot next spring. Either remove the battery or get a small tricke charge on the unit to keep it fully charged. This also extends the life of our 6 volt batteries. Put in some mothballs, and I willget the comment how do we get the balls off of the moths, or some ceader chips in your car. remove any food or left over items that might bring any critters to the car. Clean the tires prior to stoage. If you keep the battery in the car then every couple of weeks start the car and let it come up to full temperature. Pump the brake pedal several times everytime when you start the car over the winter to make sure that wheel cylinders are working and they are not leaking Keep the cover over the body to protect the paint. Any other suggestions can be added to this topic. Have a safe winter and hopefuly the car will be ready in the spring. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com -
Any good quality muffler and exhaust shop should beable to make you and exhaust and tail pipe system. Would go with stainless steel but you could also go with aluminum to save some money also ask about a quality muffler system so as to be quiet for your neighbors sake. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
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glad to see and hear that some people in the local govt had the fore sight to save the old gas station. In todays society they want to tear down everything that is old. Keep pressure on the local govt to maintain the site, history is important. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
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Todd, The universal catlog convers cars and trucks starting at 1926 and goes to 1934. The 28 Dodge as you already may know uses Northeast electrical components. As you also may know these parts are hard to find at swap meets. Under each year for each covered car or truck it lists the Northeast part number and a description of the part. Also there are pictures of each part later on in the catalog. By having this info you are in a better opportunity to spot the correct Northeast part at any swap meet and this sometimes equates to a great saving in price since most vendors do not know what they if they do not have any cross reference catalog such as this catalog. The catalog is 188 pages and has been scanned and would be on a CD. The cost is $25 and includes the shipping to your home. Let me know if you are interested. I can send you a sample page Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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tom: Check all of the small wires inside the dizzy body one might have a bare wire and causing a shot. Also check where the braker plate assembly sticks out of the dizzy body under this opening there should be a rubber plug in which the little tab slide throught this prevents the breaker plate from making a complete contact. There also should be a bakealite insulator under the tab of the breaker plate assembly where is sticks out from the dizzy body. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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Todd Rich Hartung I sent you a PM regarding the Universal Catalog that I have scanned and also lists all of the Northeast components and Norteast part numbers. Check you PM. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com
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Keith:
saw that you are working on a 28 Dodge. I have scanned a copy of the Universal parts catalog that covers the car you are working on. The catalog is 188 pages and lists all of the North east electrical components and also has pictures of the components.
Great item to have in you files as a reference point. As you know the North east parts are hard to find but knowing the correct part and part number helps with the searching.
The catalog has been completely scanned and is on a CD disk.
cost is $25 shipped to your home, Great Xmas present.
Rich HArtung
20 Driftwood drive
Norristown, PA 19403
Desoto1939@aol.com
Cell 484-431-8157
Home 610-630-9188
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Todd:
I have a copy of the universal Catalog which lists and also shows pictures of the various electrical components that were used on the cars and trucks from 1926- 1934.
What is important is that your car used all North East Components and there are not too many pictures of these components. The section for the dodge lists the North east part number so that if and when you see any at a swap meet you can identify them if the seller does not know what he has.
the cost is $25 for the catalog and that includes shipping to your home. The catalog is 188 pages and the pictures and information is so valuable.
The catalog has been scanned and comes on a CD.
Makes a great Xmas present to you from yourself or someone else.
Rich Hartung
20 Driftwood drive
Norristown, PA 19403
Cell 484-431-8157
Home 610-630-9188
Live near PHiladelphia, PA
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According to my Motors manual and tune up data for a 39 Plymouth the timing should be set at TDC or Top Dead Center and not 7 degrees. Also you might want to check the distributo beaker plate assembly. It could be worn and you might have excessive play or movement. Might want to replace this also to insure that you have a good internals on the dizzy unit. The breaker plate Assembly is an Autolite IGS 3004 which is the upper and lower plate with the points and condenser and all small wires. I have a few of these if you can not find one. I have a 39 Desoto and a lot of parts and cross reference catalogs for your car on CD's. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
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I think I might have an extra c-612 main body for the steering wheel puller but if I remember correctly it did not have the center main bolt that is used to push the steering wheel off the shaft. You could get someone to make a shaft if you know a good machinest. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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Also would suggest that you install an inline 6 volt positive ground electric fuel pump back on the car frame near the fuel tank to serve as additional pump for priming the engine after the car has sat for week or longer also acts to get fuel to the car incase you get a vapor lock. Build this into you refuel line at the same time and then run a wire upto the dash with a toggle switch to turn it off and on as needed. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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on the rubber boots my big question is how old is the rubber. If these are not new production items then they are probably at least 30 or more years old. They may look fine but as rubber ages it is not a soft and will get cracks. and then will split and then you will have the same issue with water and grit getting into the u joint. Also applying grease to the old rubber and the chemicals in the grease might also cause the rubber to brake down. So what you might want to try is get a universal cv joint boot for a modern car that is the appropriate sized holes on each end cut the unit length way slip it over the end of the drive safht and the end on the housing then get some gator glue and glue the side where you cut it then take the leather covers that you have and then cover the rubber. Also you can use the plastic zip ties to hold the rubber cv joint boot onto each end of the driveshaft and u joint body. Rich HArtung
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my first question is do you have a service manual for your 39 Dodge. Fromyour question we can assume the answer is NO, because the service manual for your car would show you all of the wireing and how they are tied into each component onyour car. Suggest that you get a copy of the service manual for your car. These manuals are very helpful when having questions about your car. Rich HArtung
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DR47: You should get a parts book and a service manual for your car. This is the basic information that you should have to support the maintenance. You can get reprints and these will answer your questions and also help when doing other repairs. I am not trying to reply with a smart answer but you need these two manuals for your car. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com
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Clay. I posted the Miller MT19 on the Desoto facebook and listed the tool for $550. There isa person up near Levittown, Pa north of Philly and is close to me he is interested in the tool. So is the price of $550 good for you? I know we tried to get a higher price at Hershey, but at least you will get your investment money back on this deal.
I left you a voice message on your company phone on Sunday night. Call me during the daytime on Monday cell 484-431-8157.
Rich HArtung
desoto1939@aol.com
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Next time you go to a swap meet look for paint chips that would be specific to your car and year. The color code would also be on the list next to the paint chips. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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according to my wagner brake catalog the piston and cup for the Chrysler product for your year is wagner part number FC12136 1 1/8 inches. So if you go to a good parts store this should help you get the correct part for your car. The piston is the same for both upper and lower cylinders. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
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I have a MOPAR small parts catalog and I looked in the section for gaskets- annular Type a and found the oil pan cooper gasket information for my 39 Desoro which is part number 105456. ID + .890 OD = 1 1/8 thickness 3/32 copper asb So if you can tell me your part number I might be able to give you the specific size for your oil pan. This is why I tell car owners to collect catalogs so you can get the information. I have this catalog on CD and the information that is contained is very useful.. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com
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I looked in my 36-42 Desoto Master Parts book and for the 36-42 years it does show a drain plug and a metal washer. The one on my 39 Desoto has a copper washer. If the oil pan is not leaking at the plug than you might has a good seal but keep the washer put a note some where in your garage that on the next time to install the washer when you change the oil. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
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Rich, This is rich Hartung with the 39 Desoto. Go look at my reply to your post about the water pump. Also call me if you have any questions I can explain.
Rich
desoto1939@aol.com
Cell 484-431-8157
home 610-630-9188
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Removing / Installing Radiator 1939 Plymouth
desoto1939 replied to Richard Cope's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Rich, Rich Hartung with the 39 Desoto. On your original 39 Plymouth there would have been three studs that were threaded and these went thru the water pump body and the unit was then bolted to the fron of the engine block. On the new pump that you got from Andy B the body is thicker where the outlet hose connects so this unit will not bolt upto the original setup. You will have to remove the lower studs and use the bolt that came with the unit. Just anted to let you know this prior to trying to install the WP. The original WP body at this section was only approx. 1/2 thick and this permits the stud to stick out the hole and then you can use the original nut. Also when installing the WP make sure that you clean and use some emery paper on the front of the engine block to get rid of any left over sealant or gaskets. If there is any thing left on the face of the block you willhave a leak. Also put some white grease on both sides of the wp gasket to help create a good seal. Cal me if you have any questions. You need the early water pump body and not the newer version of the repro water pump or you will have to pull the stud and since the studs has been in the block a long time there isa great chance that it will snap off with threads still in the front of the block. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Cell 484-431-8157 -
Jerry: The first question and I will assume that the answer is NO. From your question we can assume that you do not have a service manual or a parts manual for your car. This is the first two items that you need to purchase inorder to work onyour car. The service manual would have an line drawing of the wiring systems and will show where the original brake switch was located on the frame or on the end of the master cylinder. I am not trying to be provide a smart reply but get a reproduction copy for your own education on the car. After doing some research all of the members are willing to provide you with more input to your questions but you need to get up close to the car and get to know your car. We all do not know all of the answers we will give it a good try. Also sometimes in the service manual you will see pictures of the various parts and this will also help you learn about your car. As you can determine I have a 39 Desoto and my brake switch is just in front of the master cylinder and is attached to a four way brass connection. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com