desoto1939

Yes the 20 amp glass fues is inserted into the metal housing that twist out of the base. Place the fuse into the hosuing and then insert it into the base and then twist the hosuing and it attaches via the two tabs. Have this on my 1939 desoto. Pep48 I live near King off Prussia Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

The original Solar Coil that had the mounting flange as part of the total assembly basically is not available but you can use an Autolite Coil and then get the appropriate mounting braqcket. Currently on Ebay search 1937 dodge coil. You will fid a NOS coil for over $300 and then the mounting bracket. I have found NOS Autolite coils at swap meets for my 39 Desoto that uses the same coil set up. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

since this was found near the door and side of the front set I would try to remove the bottom of the front seat and then check the brackets that hold the seat and allows you to move the seat forward and back or something with tilting of the back top half of the seat. This is just a wild asX guess. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

You had mentioned that the 49 Ply, which is a very nice, does not have an oil filter. The ones that were installed at that time are a by-Pass filter. These is a plug along the edge of the oil galley that permits oil to flow upto the filter and then return to the oil pan. You stated that you are using 10W40 oil. 10w-40 is a detergent oil and would have been use when the car has an oil filter and multiweight oils are also a detergent oil. Just wanted to let you know that by using the 10w-40 oil there isa good possibility that the oil in the pan might have sludge built up over the years and since it did not have any oil filter on the car if the sludge get lose then you have a possibility to getting sludge pushed through the engine block and then causing other issues. I would recommend that you use a straight weight 30 motor oil. This is what was used back when these cars were produced and is not a multi-weight oil that is also a detergent oil. Do some reading on the Plymouth and also purchase a service manual and a parts manual for this car. The service manual will provide a lot of informatio and how to maintain the car and the parts manual is important when looking for specific 49 parts. Welcome to the forum and ask alot of questions. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I watched this several weeks ago and I like how the gentleman presented his information. It is amazing that none of these products in their literature actually describe how they enhance the oil in the engine. Also when he showed that they all separate after sitting and then do not really mix with the oil is another major concern. At my local car club meeting i present a recap of this video and most people were taken back and they thought that these products did mix with the oil. So all in all just the regular motor oil for our cars is the best. Even in you literature and owners manuals for our cars there is nothing being stated that they prefer any certain product to enhance the oil. I do like that he states the use of fuel additives to help keep the carbs and fuel lies clean and to keep the plugs clean. In todays world a car that has regular oil changes and maintenance should at least get 150-200k miles with the electronic ignitions and all of the other enhancements in technology. Two years ago my wife was a chase car when I drove my 39 Desoto from valley Forge Pa which is outside of Philadelphia Pa across the State of Pa via the Pa Turnpike to Altoona PA for the Desoto Convention and car show. I was traveling around 50 mph and had no issues with truckers or other cars. She was in a 2019 Honda CRV and was also doing 50MPG. We used the onboard fuel monitor and she was getting close to 45 MPG. So, with our concerns of oil and gas production it just goes to prove that the lower mph is cost efficient instead of permitting cars and trucks to go 70+ mph and also consuming more oil and gas. I have found that when doing under 65 MPH i can average around 34-35 so slow down and leave maybe 15-30 earlier and conserve our limited supplies of the oil and gasoline products. Ric Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

did this car come with any circuit breaker on the headlight switch? did you leave the ignition switch turned on when you parked the car? Might have burned the points and they are stuck together. Pull the dizzy cap and rotor to inspect this area. Check that the wires are all connected to the voltage regulator. Maybe the points need to be cleaned or adjusted in the voltage regulator. Rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Here is your information taken from my brake catalog. You use the braking ling number 1162 just like in my 39 Desoto Thickness is 3/16. I have the drilled sets that are riveted to the metal shoe. Some people prefer the bonded lining. The older set were asbestos but these are the better linings and stop better. The part number 1162 is a standard in the brake industry. So if you search on ebay for brake 1162 youwill see linings and also complete lining with brake shoes and linings attached. Knowing the correct brake part number is so important becasue these sets were made specfically to fit your cars/trucks. What type of lining do you already have installed, Riveted or bonded? I have several sets of these lining if you need some. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I had similar issue with the front left brake pulling hard to the left. There was no grease or leaking brake fluid on the front left or right shoe linings. We replaced all brakes hoses rebuilt the two single cylinder cylinders and adjusted brakes shoes as per specs. Measured the pressure in the hoses going to each brake show and drum. We still had pulling to the left. Then my very experience mechanic took all four front shoes off the car and then took a skim cut on each line approx 5-10 thousands off each shoe. Installed the shoes and the issue was resolved. He feels that there might have been something in the lining or it hardened up and glazed. My two front drums were also cut down by him in 2020 might have been some material leftover from cutting drum, but he did not feel this was the issue. The car has been stopping fine and have a great brake. Very small issue can cause major problems. Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

the only problem with the new rebuild kits is that they do not contain all of the internal parts that would have come with the original carter rebuild kits. Some might say that since the lether on the accelerator pump might be old all you should be doing is soak in a little light oil so soften up the leather and you will be good to go.. I collect the older original carter kits for my 39 Desoto also the other interesting part is that all of the various cater rebuild parts are listed on the outside of the box with the carter number. I have found that if you copy the sheet and then take this with you to a swap meet i have found that most of these internal brass parts are used for many years across the various Carter carb kits for our cars and trucks. I have also found that you can build your own kits by removing these small parts when you find another carter kit. Sometime i have found kits for $10-15 with useable parts, Also you get to learn more about your car. Always be prepared in advance. Rich Hartung

Here is a lisiting of fp taken from my Airtex FP catalog. from 1935-52 all 6 cyl used the 588 pump. Some manufacturers did have them with the glass bowel and others did not. I have the 588 on my 39 desoto with the glass sediment bowel and I do not have any leakage issues with the cork gasket and I have owned my car for 35 years. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

For what car or truck and year and model of car or truck need this info to try to help you. I have an Airtex FP catalog not sure if it will have any info but need the above data points. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

glad to see that you have the original style Autolite Bullseye headlights. These were the factory installed headlights and the replacement style 6006 is not the correct bulb. The Bullseye bulbs are getting harder to find and when they are very very expensive. I just sold 6 of them. I am going to send you a Private message Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

here is some info on the 47 Desoto locks taken from my Briggs and Stratton catalog. Rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I was doing some reading in my Miller tool catalog and they show some information on the Ammco Safe arc tool. This tool can be setup to arc the shoes for any drum that has been cut up to .050. So with this information I would assume that the max that any f these old drums on our antique car could be officially turned down and to still have enough meat on them would be .050. Red the description section. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

All good points that everyone is posting. This is what I was looking for when I first posted this opportunity. If the cost of the tool was around $150 then I would get the tool but when it is over $500 then it does not become cost effective. I am going to hold off on the offer and the gentleman might lower the price. He even told me that he does not expect to do any brake in the future. So my thinking is that he will be hanging onto the tool and then determine maybe to sell it at a lower price. Thanks for your input. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

The seller wants over $550 for the tool. I am still considering the purchase but the real big question is will I ever get enough business to warrant the cost of the tool plus getting some extra parts. Yes I know that this is a dying service so it is a real question for me to answer. If I get the tool I will let everyone know of the service. These older cars and the ownership of these cars is slowly dying and the young kids of today do not want these cars so that makes it harder for me to decide to purchase the tool. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

So Keith are you saying that the threads for the by-pass house are metric and not standard US threads? Also what about the bolt that now goes into the hole around the 7 o-clock position? Rich Hartung

But with the newer gates pump you might have an issue. I have found that the older Mopar had three threaded studs that some out from the front of the block. The issue is that the stud around the 7 oclock position when looking straight forward is very short. The new style now has a thicker body at the point on the body and when you go to install the replacement unit the stud will not stick out of the body and you cannot bolt the waterpump to the engine. They provide you with a long bolt that you can then thread into the water jacket but you then have to remove the studs that might be 50+ years old and has been in the water jacket. Possibility of bracking off the stud. Yes you can heat the old studs and use a stud puller. I have informed Andy Berbaum about the issue and they stated that this is the correct pump but the early bodies of the WP were on approx 1/2 thick at the 7 o-clock position. I spoke to Art Gould WP rebuilder and they told me that if there is enough material in the old wp that they could enlarge the main body and install a sealed bearing which is much better that the old fiber gasket internal bushing. So if you have the older style WP I would keep the body just incase you have to rebuild it. Contact Art Gould up in Mass. I do know they come to Hershey in October. In my last set of picture in the upper left corner is the proper Miller tool to puller the mounting bracket from the shaft. The tool under that is used to insert a drill and is mounted on the shaft to drill the hole into the shaft when you replace the pin. You do not see these tools even at Hershey, so I have some rare finds over the past 35 years. Just an FYI. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Most of these hoses for the oil gage are rubber so that when the engine might move the rubber then can flex and this prevents the oil line from bending and breaking and leaking. You can get a replace rubber oil line on Ebay or contact Andy Bernbaum for your MoPar Vender. Rich Hartungdesoto1939@aol.com

I fully understand your input. I am not trying to persuade anyone to use any specific brand of oil. I know there has been alot of talk and posting regarding the use of ZDDP for the older cars every since it was removed because of the use of catalytic convertors in the modern cars. I know some people add in the ZDDP additive and others do not. Yes I also agree that the oils we used in the 20's and up have improved dramatically with their protective additives and how we can refined these oil products with better standards. I know people that are using the Purple brand or VR1 in their antiques and that is fine with me. I was just trying to point out that there are other brands that have the same qualities. But I have seen anyone post the data to support what is in each product. I am not a chemical engineer so I have to believe what the company posts and then everone can make their own opinion and use the product of choice. Rich hartung

Los Control so what oil brand and weight did you switch to use in your cars/trucks. As you also know multi weight oil is a detergent oil and will get dirty with use. That is the makeup of the product. Straight weight oil does not have the cleaning agents, so maybe you were picking up the oil that had been cleaning the engine over time. Did you also change the filter at the same time. I do know that the by-pass filters in the old style oil cans stated that you could go 5-8000 miles prior to replacing the oil filter, this is because the filter was not a full flow filter. Not sure of why you had this problem, I am only reporting what I can and with the facts that I was provided. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

sniper I was also confused by what he was trying to pull off the water pump. refer to my posting just prior to yours and the required tools that the factory Miller tool company created that the dealership used. These tools are from my personal collection and from my power point presentation that I did for the National Desoto club. These were all used by Chrysler, Desoto, Dodge and Plymouth. Rich Hartung

I have this puller in my collection of factory miller tools. Read the description. Prior to pulling the hub there is a pin that goes through the hub and the shaft. This needs to be pushed out prior to trying to pull the hub. You can use a punch to drive out the pin. Then use any two arm or three arm puller to remove the hub. There specific tools that were made to disassemble and rebuild the water pumps. You just might want to get a complete new water pump with the pully already attached. I have the complete rebuilding tools. The screen prints were taken from my Miller tool presentation that was done at the 2022 National Desoto Car show and Annual Convention. So you can tell there are a fair amt of special tools required to rebuild a water pump for your car. I would sell the entire kit if you are really interested. These factory tools are very hard to find even at the Great Hershey swap meet. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I know there has been a-lot of questions and answers about the use and requirement of replacing the ZDDP properties for our older cars. Castrol is now offering a motor oil called Castrol GTX classic W20/50 that has one of highest ZDDP amounts. I contacted Castrol and they provided me with a tech sheet about the oil. I also have another document with info on ZDD properties written by Egge Machine company. I have attached both documents for your reading. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Castrol GTX classic 20-50 oil zddp & Phosphorus.pdf ZDDP Egge Information.docx

I currently use Castrol GTX Classic 20/50 in my 39 Desoto. The engine has been rebuilt. I use this because this il has a very high amt of ZINC and phosphorus and Boron for our older cars. It CAN NOT again IT CAN NOT be used in modern cars that have catalytic convertor, it will run the convertor. I did a posting on this oil awhile back and received the amounts from Castrol's Tech services department. You can get this oil from Amazon and sometime WalMart. Attached is the information from Castrol and also EGGE regarding ZDDP for your reading a files. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Castrol GTX classic 20-50 oil zddp & Phosphorus.pdf ZDDP Egge Information.docx